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JULIUS Fr'^CHSE, LiTT.D. 

Librarian, Masonic Temple, Philadelphia: Member of American Philosophical Society, 

American Library Association, American Historical Association, International 

Congres des Orientalistes, Historical Society of Pennsylvania, American 

Jewish Historical Association, Pennsylvania-German Society, 

Colonial Society of Pennsylvania, Quatuor Coronati, 

London 



SECOND EDITION 



Lancaster, Pa. 
1912 



5 /^ 



Copyright, 191 5 
By Julius F. Sachse 



PRESS OF 

THE NEW ERA PRINTING COMPANV 

LANCASTER, PA. 



FEB 19 1916 



C€^ 



©JI,A4}S9J1 



CONTENTS. 

Page. 

Foreword 

Introduction 5-14 

The Wayside Inns on the Lancaster Road- 
side FROM Philadelphia to Lancaster 15-27 

The Spread Eagle Tavern Near the 14 

Milestone 28-43 

The Warren Tavern Near the 20 Mile- 
stone 44-77 

The Blue Ball on the Old Road. The 
Halfway House between the Schuyl- 
kill AND THE BrANDYWINE 80-94 

The Eleven Taverns formerly on the 
Lancaster Turnpike between the 
Eagle Tavern and the Paoli Inn. ... 9 5- 117 

The General Paoli Tavern 11 8-149 

The Green Tree in Willistown Township 

Near the 19 Milestone 150-172 

The " Ship " in West Whiteland Near the 

27 Milestone 173-184 

The "Sign of the White Horse," on the 
Old Road 26 M. i Qr. 18 Perches 
FROM THE Court House, Second and 
Market Sts., Philadelphia 185-201 

Index 



FOREWORD. 

A portion of this series of sketches of the old Wayside 
Inns on the Lancaster roadside, was originally published 
some thirty years ago in the Village Record, at West 
Chester, the county seat of Chester County, one of the 
three original Counties of Penn's Colony on the Delaware. 
These papers gave a description of the old Inns on the 
Lancaster turnpike, between the "Eagle" near the four- 
teenth milestone and the old " Ship " Tavern near the 
twenty-seventh milestone. 

Many of these facts and incidents were gleaned from 
time to time, by the writer while yet a lad, dating back 
some sixty years or more, when an occasional Drove was 
not an unusual sight, upon the neglected highway — and 
some of the old Conestoga wagons, were still to be seen 
under the wagon shed on an adjoining farm. 

To these sketches, a list has been added of all the Old 
Inns from the "Fish" at the Schuylkill Ferry to the 
"Swan" at Lancaster. Illustrated with photographs by 
the writer of such views of the Old Inns as were standing 
as late as 1886. 

In the year 19 12-13, these papers were printed as part 
XXIII of the " Narative and Critical History of the Ger- 
man Influence in the Settlement and Development of 
Pennsylvania" in the Proceedings of the Pennsylvania- 
German Society, and are now republished to meet a wide- 
spread demand. 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 

A Scene on the Lancaster Turnpike Frontispiece. ^ 

The Buck Tavern facing page 1 7 ''^ 

The Red Lion " " 15/ 

The Blue Ball, Springhouse, Drove and Stage 

averns 19 

The Paoli, Four Views " " 20 .-- 

The General Washington " " 22 

The Steamboat, Green Tree, General Jackson, 

Toll Booth " " 24^ 

The Rising Sun " " 26v/ 

The Old Spread Eagle " " 28 -^ 

The Spread Eagle, Four Views " " 34 ^ 

The Ship Tavern, Mt. Vernon, two not Identified " " 38^ 

The Gallagherville, Gen. Wayne " " 42 ^ 

The Warren, Four Views " " 441- 

The Half-Way, Swan, Sheaf, Ship " " 46 ^ 

The Cross Keys, State Arms, Sadsbury, Rainbow. " " 50 \/' 
The Old Moscow, Mantua, The Latta Home- 
stead, Gen. Wayne " " 54 1/ 

The Mt. Vernon, Washington, two not Identified " " 58 -^ 

Views between 43 and 45 Milestone " " 64 / 

Lancaster in the Early Days " " 78 

The Paoli " " 118 

Home of Anthony Wayne " " 124 ; 

John D. Evans " " I45 ^ 

Amish Mennonites of Lancaster Co " " 156 '^ 

Sergeant Andrew Wallace " " 166- 

Camp Wayne " " 168 

The Sign of the White Horse " " 185 



J^^ 




THE WAYSIDE INNS ON THE 
LANCASTER ROADSIDE. 



N provincial or colonial days the 
most important institution in 
our commonwealth, next to the 
church and school-house, was 
the wayside inn. Scattered as 
they were along the roadside 
throughout the province they 
were important beacons for the 
weary traveller, as well as a 
haven of rest and refreshment 
for the sojourner, whether 
farmer, drover, teamster or 
traveller upon business or pleas- 
ure bent. Many of these tav- 
erns or inns became important 
landmarks in both our social 
and political history^, growing in the course of years from 
the lowly log tavern, to the stately stone turnpike inn of 
later years, in which important social functions were held. 
In many instances they were also polling places, and the 
meeting place of Masonic Lodges and similar organiza- 
tions. Some also were favorite places for mass meetings 

5 




6 JFayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

and political rallies, where the candidates held forth, occa- 
sions upon which the barrel of hard cider was ever in evi- 
dence to slake the thirst of the prospective voter. 

Many of these wayside inns in Pennsylvania became 
known throughout the land for their good cheer, cleanli- 
ness and hospitality. The hosts or landlords of these 
houses of the better class were almost invariably Germans 
or Pennsylvania-Germans, and the culinary department 
was supervised by the wife of the innkeeper. 

Everyone of these wives was a hausfrau in every sense 
of the word. Upon her devolved not alone the culinary 
department but the care and oversight of the whole estab- 
lishment, except the bar, stable yard, and supervision of 
the hostlers and reception of the guests, which fell to her 
husband the landlord. 

The meals at these inns, such as the Spread Eagle 
and Warren presided over by the Pennsylvana-German 
matron, as served were entirely different from the fare 
set out in the houses kept by other nationalities, for 
instance where in the other wayside inns, even of the 
better sort, regular fare consisted of fried ham, cornbeef 
and cabbage, mutton and beef stews and mush and 
molasses, bread half rye and corn meal, with occasional 
rump steak and cold meats, and tea. In these Pennsylva- 
nia-German Inns we had such dishes as Kalbskopf (mock 
turtle) soup redolent with the odor of Madeira; Sauer 
braten a favorite dish of the Fatherland; Schmor braten 
(beef a la mode) ; Spanferkel (sucking pig stuffed and 
roasted) ; Kalbsbraten (roast veal filled) ; Hammehbraten 
(roast mutton) ; Kuttlefleck (soused tripe spiced) ; Hinkel 
pie (chicken pot pie) ; Apfelklose (apple dumplings) ; 
Bratwurst (sausage) ; applecake, coffee cake with its coat- 



Social Status of the Old Inns. *j 

ing of butter, sugar and cinnamon, and many other dishes 
unknown to their English competitors. 

To conduct one of these stands in turnpike days required 
quite as much executive ability as is required to manage 
one of the pretentious hostelries of the present day. The 
proprietors In many cases were men of intelligence and 
prominence in the community; even members of Congress 
and State Representatives are to be found among their 
number. 

So closely were the lines drawn between the classes of 
the stage tavern and the wagoner, that no stage tavern 
would on any account permit a teamster to put up there 
for the night, for if It became known that a wagoner had 
stopped there It would be considered a lasting disgrace 
and would result In the loss of the better class of patrons. 

From the earliest days In our history there were sharply 
defined lines In these wayside Inns, as each class catered 
for special custom. Thus those of the better class were 
known as "stage stands," Inns where the travelling public 
by stage stopped for refreshment, meals, and sometimes 
rest over night. Here also the relays were changed. 
Next In the scale came the "wagon stands," taverns 
patronized by wagoners or teamsters : here they " put up " 
for the night, feeding their tired teams, and In many cases 
sleeping upon a bag of hay upon the floor of the bar-room 
or barn. Another class were the " drove stands," where 
special accommodations were to be had by the drovers 
for their cattle, which were here watered, fed or pastured, 
until they were again upon the hoof towards their desti- 
nation. Lastly, come the lowest class of the passing 
wayside inns, the "tap house," where the lowest class of 
the passing or resident public was catered to. These 
houses harbored such as none of the other classes would 



8 JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

entertain. The chief income of these "tap houses" came 
from the sale of bad spirits or whiskey. They were 
invariably kept by Irishmen. 

In olden times all distances between cities and places 
were computed from inn to inn. Thus by referring to 
any old provincial almanac, tables like this will be found. 



Copy of an old Distanxe Table giving a List of Taverns on the old 
Lancaster Road or King's Highway, which was the Predecessor 
OF the Philadelphia and Lancaster Turnpike. 



Philadelphia to 

Colters Ferrj' 

Black Horse 

Merion Meeting 

Three Tuns 

The Buck 

The Plough 

Radnor Meeting 

Mills Tavern 

The Ball 

Signe of Adr'l Warren 

White Horse 

Downing Mill 

The Ship 

The Wagon 

John Miller at the Tun 

Pequa Bridge 

Dougles's Mill 

WiddowCaldwells"Hat"... 

John Vernon's 

Conistoga Creek 

Lancaster Court House 



I 

6 

7 

9 

II 

13 
H 
i6 

19 

23 
26 

33 
34 
41 
47 
4? 
49 
S3 
60 
64 
66 



Qts. 



52 
16 

65 
66 
42 
48 

87 
26 
62 
22 
18 

4 
30 

o 

50 
II 

20 
58 
52 
10 



Another feature of these old inns of the days gone by 
were their sign boards which swung and creaked in their 
yoke, high upon a mast or pole set in the roadside. These 
sign boards were all figurative and in some cases painted 
by artists of note. The cause for the figurative feature 
was twofold; first, they were more ornate and could be 
better understood by the two different natlonalltes which 



• Miles, quarters and perches. 



Old Tavern Signs. 9 

made up our population than signs lettered in either 
German or English. Thus, take for Instance, " The Black 
Bear"; a representation of this animal was known at 
once to either German or Irishman, while the words 
" Black Bear" would have troubled the former, while the 
latter certainly never would have recognized his stopping 
place If the sign board bore the legend: " Der Schwartze 
Bar." Secondly, but few of the teamsters or wagoners, 
irrespective of race, could read; nearly all had their orders 
to stop at certain houses, and they knew them by the sign 
board when they came to them. Then again, in some 
cases the name of the subject would be different in the 
High or Palatinate German dialect; thus, twelve miles 
from Philadelphia, there was a wagon stand upon whose 
sign board was painted a sorrel horse, and among the 
English-speaking teamsters the inn was known by that 
name; referring to a High German distance-table, we 
find It scheduled as " Braunes Pfed," the "Brown Horse." 
To the Palatinate wagoner, however, it was known as 
" Der Fuchs," "The Fox." This was not an Isolated case, 
the inn often receiving a nickname which eventually found 
Its way into the local distance tables. 

Many of these signs were of a homely character, such 
as The Hat, The Boot, The Wagon, The Eagle, The 
Lion, The Cat, The Turk's Head, etc. 

The drove stands usually had signs pertinent to their 
class of patrons, such as The Bull's Head, The Lamb, 
The Ram's Head, The Swan (black or white) , etc. 

The tap houses were known by such names as "The 
Jolly Irishman," "Fox Chase," "The Fiddler," "The 
Cat," etc. 

The better class of inns or stage stands were usually 
named after popular heroes, such as "The King of Prus- 



lo JFaysidc Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

sia," "St. George and the Dragon," "General Washing- 
ton," "General Paoli," "Spread Eagle," and the "Indian 
Queen." The names were sometimes changed, owing to 
political changes; thus, one of the most noted taverns on 
the Lancaster roadside, the "Admiral Warren," after the 
Revolution had the coat on the figure of the sign board 
changed from red to blue, and henceforth it was "The 
General Warren," in honor of the hero of Bunker Hill. 
Similar cases are upon record where the head of " King 
George," after the struggle for Independence, w'as, by 
aid of the painter's brush, metamorphosed into " George 
Washington." 

The highest development of the wayside inn was 
reached when the Lancaster turnpike became the chief 
highway and the model roadbed in the United States. 

Pennsylvania merits unquestionably the praise of hav- 
ing contracted the first stone turnpike in this country. It 
led from Philadelphia to Lancaster, it was 62 miles long; 
was commenced in 1792, and finished in 1794, at an 
expense of $465,000, by a private company, and it 
became the pattern for all subsequent hard roads in this 
country. 

Originally nine toll bars (" Schlagbaume ") were 
erected between Philadelphia and Lancaster, at the fol- 
lowing distances, beginning at two miles west of the Schuyl- 
kill, viz., 2, 5, 10, 20, 293/^, 40, 493/<, 583^, WItmer's 
Bridge. 

The Lancaster turnpike replaced the old Conestoga or 
King's road, which connected Philadelphia with Lancas- 
ter, the chief inland city of Penn's colony. 

The following is a copy of an old distance-table giving 
a list of the taverns and landmarks on the old Lancaster 
road or King's highway, which was the predecessor as it 
were of the turnpike: 



Distance Tables. 



II 



Philadelphia to 

Colter's Ferry 

Black Horse 

Merion Meeting 

Three Tuns 

The Buck 

The Plough 

Radnor Meeting 

Mills Tavern 

The Ball 

Sign of Adml. Warren 

White Horse 

Downing Mill 

The Ship 

The Wagon 

John Miller at the Tun 

Pequa Bridge 

Dougless Mill 

Widow Colwell's "Hat" 

John Vernon's 

Conestoga Creek 

Lancaster Court House 



I 

6 

7 

9 

II 

13 
H 
i6 

19 

23 

26 

33 
34 
41 
47 
48 

49 
53 
60 
64 
66 



Qts. 



52 

16 

6s 
66 

42 
48 

87 
26 
62 
22 
18 

4 

30 

SO 
50 
20 
S8 
52 
10 



It was the purpose of this series of papers* to give 
the history of some of these old pubhc houses, land- 
marks as they were, both legendary and documentary, 
showing the developments from the earliest hostelry, the 
*' Blue Ball," in Tredyffrin Township, Chester County, 
established half way between the Schuylkill river and 
Brandywine creek, when yet the pack-horse reigned 
supreme, to the multitude of public houses for the enter- 
tainment of man and beast, often so close together on 
the turnpike that several could be found within a mile. 

How the roadside inns and taverns increased on the 
new road between Philadelphia and Lancaster upon the 
completion of the turnpike between these two points, 
owing to the great increase of travel, is best seen by a com- 
parison of the above list of the King's or "Old" road 
with a list compiled by the writer and appended to this 
paper, where it will be seen that the number of roadside 



• 1886. 



12 JP" ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

inns between the two cities had increased from fourteen 
on the old road to fifty and more on the turnpike. 

In this list are given some of the names by which these 
landmarks were known to the German teamsters, drovers 
or travellers of that day. 

The hard stone road, its white surface glistening in the 
sunlight, with its ever changing scene of life and activity, 
formed a picturesque and diversified panorama. In later 
days we have the Troy coach, swinging upon its leather 
springs, rolling along the hard road, drawn by four pranc- 
ing horses; the Conestoga wagon with its broad tires; 
the slow-plodding six-horse team with tinkling yoke bells; 
the large droves of cattle being driven from the green 
pastures of Chester and Lancaster to the seaboard; the 
accommodation stage-wagon in contrast to the mail coach, 
and the farm wagon or " dearborn," with the farmer 
going to or from the city market; and many other features 
all contributed to this ever changing scene. 

With the advent of the railroad with its iron horse the 
scene changed until within a few years the various turn- 
pikes virtually became deserted highways, giving up to 
mere local travel — with road-bed neglected or abandoned 
until in some cases they became dangerous to travel. 

While the wayside inns, once so important a landmark, 
gradually went out of existence, many of them struggling 
for some time as country boarding houses, or degenerating 
to the level of an ordinary country tavern, which in colon- 
ial times were places of importance, and now merely live 
in the traditions of the county, and vaguely in the memory 
of a few of a former generation still amongst us, it was 
to perpetuate such records and traditions that the writer 
gathered such as were available relating to the various 
hostelries as were, or had been on the Lancaster road and 



Changes JFrought in Modern Days. 13 

turnpike within the bounds of Chester County. These 
records, forming a series of papers, were published In the 
"Village Record" of Chester County during the "8o's" 
of the last century. 

The tw^o following papers, " The Spread Eagle " and 
" The Warren " have been selected for republication in 
the Proceedings of the Pennsylvania-German Society, as 
these hostelrles were strictly representative Pennsylvania- 
German houses, kept by the SIter and Fahnestock families 
respectively. These two houses, stage-stands of the first 
order, where " entertainment was dispensed for man and 
beast," had not only a local reputation for elegance, but 
a national one as well, during the former turnpike days, 
until supplanted by the state railroad from Philadelphia 
to Columbia about the year 1836. 

What Is true of the old Lancaster turnpike applies also 
to the roads leading out from Philadelphia to Bethlehem 
and the northeast, and to the road to Baltimore and the 
south; many of the hostelrles on these roads were kept 
by Pennsylvania-Germans, or men of German birth. 

Of late years, long after the following stories were 
written, a new factor appeared with the advent of the 
twentieth century, namely the horseless carriage, which 
has had an unexpected effect upon our old turnpikes, so 
sadly neglected for many years, and in certain locahtles 
abandoned as unfit for travel. The advent of this factor, 
with power derived from gasoline, electricity or denatured 
alcohol, brought about a demand for good roads. The 
agitation for safe roads spread over the land, and resulted 
in many delapldated and neglected turnpikes being again 
surfaced and put In good condition for safe and speedy 
travel; among these reconstructed roads there is none finer 
than the Lancaster Turnpike from Philadelphia, through 



14 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

what Is known as the suburban district on the Pennsylva- 
nia main line; and it is now again, as it was when first 
built over a century ago, quoted as the model and speci- 
men piece of road building, second to none in the state. 

Whether this new condition of travel will eventually 
bring about the rehabilitation of any of our old colonial 
hostelries in a manner suitable to the needs of the twentieth 
century, or whether they will be supplanted by establish- 
ments like those at Bryn Mawr or Devon, remains to 
be seen. 

In the meantime, these sketches of days gone by may 
prove of interest to the autoists, both male and female, as 
they gaily spin up or down the old highway, in a luxury 
and speed undreamed of by the old wagoner, teamster or 
stagers of a century ago. 





FROM THE " FISH " WEST OF THE SCHUYL- 
KILL TO THE "SWAN" AT LANCASTER. 




f 



'N the old distance tables pub- 
lished prior to the building 
of the Philadelphia and Lancaster 
Turnpike the distances are given 
from the court house formerly at 
Second and Market streets. This 
course was followed in the early 
days of the turnpike. The mile- 
stones on the turnpike, however, 
commence from the Schuylkill 
River. Consequently in the later 
distance tables the locations of 
the old landmarks appear to be 
two miles less than on the older 
tables, the two miles being the 
distance from the court house to 
the west bank of the Schuylkill. 
The following list of Inns on 
the Lancaster turnpike Is based on notes made by the 
writer during the year 1 886-1 887, when most all of the 
photographs were taken. 

Many of these old landmarks have been changed since 
that time; some remodeled for the use of wealthy subur- 
ban residents; others, half In ruin, are occupied by foreign 

15 



i6 JJ^ayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

laborers; some have been demolished, and a few have 
descended to the level of an ordinary' country tavern. 

In compiling this list every effort has been made to give 
the proper location of the various old wayside inns between 
Philadelphia and Lancaster, 

Shortly after the turnpike and the permanent, or 
Market Street bridge, over the Schuylkill was completed, 
the stage coaches started on their journey from the corner 
of Eighth and Market streets. 

The traveller after crossing the Market Street (perma- 
nent) bridge over the Schuylkill at Philadelphia, on his 
journey westward, first passed: 

1. The Fish, on the west side of the Schuylkill, which 

was kept by the Boone family. 

2. The Lamb Tavern, built and kept by John Elliot. 

The exact location of this old inn is not known. 

3. The Rising Sun. This was in Blockley Township, 

about two and a half miles west of the bridge. 

4. The Columbus Tavern, built in 1798, by Col. Edward 

Heston for his son Abraham. It stood on the turn- 
pike in Blockley Township, just east of Meetinghouse 
Lane, the present 5 2d Street. 

5. The White Lamb. Opposite the fourth mile stone 

near the present Wynnefield Avenue. This building 
is still standing. 

In this vicinity, in later years there were several 
taverns of minor importance, which are not to be in- 
cluded in our list of the Wayside Inns. They were 
known as : 

Hughes Tavern. 

The Durham Ox. 

ludwicks. 

Sheep Drove Yard. 

These have long since passed away, nor can the 



List of the Old Inns. 17 

exact location be given with certainty at the present 
day. 

6. The Flag Tavern. This was the first inn on the 

turnpike in Lower Merion Township, Montgomery 
County. The College of St. Charles Borromeo now 
covers part of the site. Near the fifth milestone. 

7. The Black Horse Tavern. Also in lower Merion, 

Montgomery County, about four miles west of the 
river. It is said that the original Black Horse Inn 
was built on the old Lancaster road by a progenitor 
of the Wynne family. This is about one mile east 
of the old Friends Merion Meeting-house just over 
the city line. 

8. The Three Tuns. In Lower Merion Township, 

Montgomery County, about two miles above Merion 
Meeting, seven miles from Philadelphia. 

9. The Green Tree. In same township, about half a 

mile west of the Three Tuns. 

10. The Red Lion. Also in Ardmore. This inn was for 

many years kept by the Litzenberg family. It is still 
kept at the present day as a saloon and tavern. It is 
about a quarter of a mile west of the seventh mile- 
stone. 

11. The Seven Stars. In the village of Athensville, now 

Ardmore, also in Lower Merion, Montgomery 
County. Kept for many years by the Kugler family. 
It was upon the south side of the turnpike, near the 
seventh milestone. 

12. The Prince of Wales. In Haver ford Township, 

Delaware County. About half a mile west of 
Ardmore. 

13. The Buck Tavern. On the south side of the turn- 

pike, between Haverford and Bryn Mawr, in Haver- 
ford Township, Delaware County, ^ mile west of 



i8 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

the eighth milestone, on the extreme verge of the 
county. This inn was a stage stand of the first order, 
and was renowned for its good cheer. It was kept 
for many years by the Miller family, and was ap- 
pointed a post-tavern at an early day. In 1832 
Jonathan Miller, the tavern keeper, was the post- 
master. 

14. The Sorrel Horse. In Radnor Township, Delaware 

County. 

15. The Plough. Also in Radnor township. In later 

years, after being remodeled, became the residence 
of a Philadelphia capitalist. The location is about 
eleven miles west of the Schuylkill. 

16. The Unicom. Also known as "Miles Tavern," 

after the family who kept it for many years. It was 
also known as the "Irish" Tavern. The location 
of this old hostelry was a short distance below the 
fourteenth milestone on the turnpike, where both the 
old road and turnpike cover the same ground. 

[Note. These three taverns — the Sorrel Horse, 
Plough, and Unicorn — all appear as landmarks on 
the old Lancaster road. Also on the early distance 
tables of the turnpike this would lead to the inference 
that at least the Sorrel Horse and Plough were re- 
opened on the pike.] 

17. The Spread Eagle. Radnor Township, Delaware 

County, on the border of Chester County, a few rods 
above the fourteenth milestone on the turnpike. 
This was a stage stand of the first order, and re- 
nowned for its cleanliness and good cheer. It was 
a post tavern and relay station. For many years this 
inn was kept by the Siter family. The hamlet of 
eight or ten dwellings and shops that grew up around 




I 5 



I u.- 



From the Eagle to the Bear. 19 

Edward Siter was the postmaster. During the 
eighth decade of last century, the property was 
bought by the Drexel and Chllds operation at Wayne 
and demolished. 

18. The Lamb Tavern. The first inn on the turnpike in 

Chester County. It stood a short distance east of 
the fifteenth milestone, and was kept by the Lewis 
family. Many of the reminiscences of this vicinity 
were told the writer by George Lewis, then in his 
ninetieth year. 

19. The Stage Tavern. On the hillside a little west of 

the fifteenth milestone. It was located upon what 
was claimed to be the highest point west of Phila- 
delphia. Here the town of Glassly was laid out 
about the year 1800. The old Inn was a wagon and 
drove stand, and was kept by the Beaumont family. 

20. The Spring House. In the hollow, just east of 

Reeseville, now Berwyn. Kept for a time by a 
branch of the Kugler family. It was between the 
fifteenth and sixteenth milestones. In later years It 
was known as Peggy Dane's. The site is now 
covered by an artificial ice and cold storage plant. 

21. The Drove Tavern. In Tedyffrin Township, 

Chester County, opposite the sixteenth milestone. It 
was kept by the Reese family, from which the settle- 
ment took Its original name " Reeseville," now the 
flourishing town of Berwyn. The old signboard is 
now in the Pennsylvania Historical Society. 

22. The Blue Ball. Prissy Robinson's, on the turnpike 

near the seventeenth milestone, now known as Dayles- 
ford. For years this old inn was kept by the notori- 
ous Prissy Robinson, who for years was a local char- 
acter In this locality. 

23. The Black Bear. For a time known as the Bull's 



20 IFayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

Head. This old inn stood on the south side of the 
turnpike where the road from Newtown Square to 
Howelville crosses the turnpike. It was a wagon 
and drove stand during the turnpike days and was 
torn down in 1877. The barn stood on the south- 
west corner of the road. 

24. The General Jackson later The Franklin. On the 
north side of the turnpike at the eighteenth milestone. 
This old inn, still standing, was kept for years by a 
branch of the Evans family. Prior to the Anti- 
masonic craze (i 828-1 832), the inn was known as 
a lodge stand, as a special room was set apart for 
society meetings, among which was " Farmer's 
Lodge, No. 183, Free and Accepted Masons," who 
met there from 1822 until about 1830. This inn is 
in Trydeffrin Township, Chester County. 

25. The Paoli. Another of the celebrated stage stands 

on the eastern end of the turnpike. It was in 
Trydeffrin Township, Chester County, on the north 
side of the turnpike, just west of the eighteenth mile- 
stone. For many years it was kept by the Davis and 
later by the Evans family. It was the polling place 
for several townships, also the chief postoffice for 
this district. Samuel Davis was the postmaster in 
1832. In later years the Paoli was used as a summer 
boarding house, presided over by Joshua Evans and 
Mrs. Davis. It was destroyed by fire some twenty 
odd years ago. 

26. The Green Tree. Near the nineteenth milestone in 

Willistown Township, Chester County. This was a 
wagon stand in the early days. Its last boniface was 
Davis Gill, sheriff of the county. It was demolished 
in 1877 when the Pennsylvania Railroad was 
straightened. 



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From the IVarren to the Ship. 21 

27. The Warren Tavern [Admiral Vernon, Admiral 

Warren, General Warren]. In East Whiteland 
Township, Chester County, on the north slope of the 
South Valley Hill. It was near the twentieth mile- 
stone, and the first Inn on the turnpike in the Great 
Chester Valley. It was one of the oldest Inns west 
of Philadelphia, being on the King's Road In Pro- 
vincial days, twenty-two miles west of the court house 
in Philadelphia. After the Revolution it was kept 
by a branch of the Fahnestock family from Ephrata, 
during whose regime Its reputation was second to 
none in the state. In 1832 Charles Fahnestock was 
the postmaster. They were also the first innkeepers 
who refused to sell liquors on the Sabbath. 

28. General Wayne. A wagon stand, near the twenty- 

second milestone, at the north side of the turnpike. 
On the inside of the barroom door the marks of the 
teamsters' whips could be seen, where, in former 
years, they tried their strength, and the cutting power 
of their whip lashes. This building Is now used as a 
dwelling. 

29. The Steamboat. On the north side of the turnpike, 

half a mile east of the twenty-fourth milestone. It 
Is in West Whiteland Township, near the present 
Glen Lock Station on the Pennsylvania Railroad. 
At present writing the house Is unoccupied and fallen 
into decay. 

30. The Sheaf of Wheat [Sheaf — Barley Sheaf]. A 

wagon and drove stand near the twenty-sixth mile- 
stone. 

31. The Ship Tavern. Near the twenty-seventh mile- 

stone In West Whiteland Township. Originally 
west of Downlngtown, at a point where the Old Lan- 



22 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

caster road and the new turnpike occupied the same 
ground. When the original ship was closed, the 
old sign was taken to the new location, and there for 
many years swung and creaked in its yoke by the 
roadside. 

32. The General Washington. In East Cain Township, 
near the thirty-first milestone. Also known as Doivn- 
ings or the Stage office and on the old distance tables 
as Downing s Mill, thirty-three miles from the Phila- 
delphia court house. This noted hostelry was at the 
eastern end of the village of Downingtown, on the 
north side of the turnpike at the junction of the Lion- 
ville road. This inn was the halfway station be- 
tween Philadelphia and Lancaster, and occupied the 
same position on the successive roads between those 
two points. "Downings" was a "stage" stand of 
the first order. It is not known what effigy the 
signboard bore during provincial days. After the 
Revolution, however, it became known as the " Gen- 
eral Washington," and the swinging sign portrayed 
the general and a civilian standing side by side. In 
early days this inn was also a postoffice. Isaac 
Downing was the postmaster in 1832. The building 
is now remodelled and used as a private residence 

33. The Halfway House. A wagon stand on the south 

side of the turnpike, a short distance west of " Down- 
ings." The site of this old inn is now occupied by 
several store buildings. 

34. The Swan Tavern. Also in Downingtown. It Is 

on the south side of the turnpike, a short distance 
west of the above two hostelries. The old Swan 
has of late been remodeled and is now the chief 
tavern and saloon in East Downingtown. 




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From the Ship to the Cross Keys. 23 

35. Gallagherville Tavern. On the turnpike, near the 

thirty-third milestone. 

36. The Ship Tavern. The original Ship Tavern was on 

the south side of the turnpike in West Whiteland 
Township, Chester County, about one mile west of 
Downingtown, near the thirty-second milestone, at a 
point where the old Lancaster or Conestoga road and 
the new turnpike occupied the same ground. When 
the original tavern was closed, the old sign was taken 
to the new location, near the twenty-seventh mile- 
stone, where for many years it swung and creaked in 
its yoke by the roadside, perforated as it was by the 
bullet holes made by continental soldiers during the 
Revolution. The original building is still standing, 
being used as a summer residence. Thomas Parke 
was the proprietor during Revolutionary times, and 
later was acquired by the Edge family. 

37. The Prussian Eagle. On the east bank of the West 

Branch of the Brandywine, in Valley Township, now 
the flourishing town of Coatesville. In i860 the inn 
was kept by J. T. Minster, since which time it has 
been enlarged and is now known as the " Speakman 
House." It is west of the thirty-sixth milestone. 

38. The Midway House. Formerly on the turnpike just 

beyond the West Branch of the Brandywine. It was 
just east of the thirty-seventh milestone. The inn 
took its name from the fact that it was just half way 
or midway between Philadelphia and Columbia, the 
original termini of the old state railroad. In i860 it 
was kept by A. Bear. Henry Conroy was also a 
former innkeeper. 

39. Hand's Pass. {The Cross Keys.) This old inn, a 

wagon stand, was so named after its location. It 



24 fFayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

stood in what was in former days a wild and lonely 
spot on the hill side, then covered with heavy timber. 
It was near the thirty-eighth milestone. Tradition 
tells us that it received its name from the fact that 
General Hand had encamped there with a portion of 
Washington's army. The old hostelry was sur- 
rounded by a dense wood, and for some reason had 
an uncanny reputation, so much so that many 
teamsters avoided remaining there over night as much 
as possible. There were also a number of ghostly 
traditions current about this old inn during turnpike 
days. 

40. The Rainbow Tavern. Between the thiry-eighth 

and thirty-ninth milestone. This was also a wagon 
and drove stand. 

41. The Barley Sheaf. Noted on the distance table in 

Carey's Almanac for 1803 as being eight miles west 
of Downingtown. This would be near the thirty- 
ninth milestone. 

42. The Washington Tavern. West of the fortieth 

milestone. 

43. The States Arms (also United States Arms). This 

inn was in Sadsbury Township, on the north side of 
the turnpike, at the intersection with the road leading 
from the Conestoga and Pequea country to Wilming- 
ton. This inn, in the early years of the nineteenth 
century, was the last tavern in Chester County, where 
stages going west changed horses. The old inn was 
also known as a "lodge" stand, as here at the be- 
ginning of last century "Unity" Masonic Lodge, 
No. 80, held its meetings. It was between the 
fortieth and forty-first milestones. 



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From Sadsbury to Mount Vernon. 25 

44. Sadsbury Hotel. Also known as Kendig's, formerly 

as Baer's. Just east of the forty-first milestone, at 
the intersection of the Wilmington Pilce. This inn 
was also one of the tavern postoffices. In 1832 John 
Kendig was the postmaster. At the present day it 
is used as a country tavern. 

45. The Black Horse Tavern. Near the forty-second 

milestone in West Sadsbury Township. This inn 
was also used as a postoffice. In 1832 Samuel Jack- 
son was the postmaster. House now owned by John 
Wallace Boyd. 

46. The General Wayne Tavern. At the forty-third 

milestone. At the close of the war of 18 12 John 
Petit was the owner of the Wayne with fifty acres of 
land. Being beautifully situated a company was 
formed to lay out a town in 1814. Petit sold his 
tavern and farm to Abraham & Company for 
$16,000, whereon they laid out a town and called 
it " Moscow." The turnpike became Cossack street 
for the nonce, while parallel and cross streets were 
given Russian names. The plot was gotten up in 
fine style, but flourished only on paper. After the 
bubble bursted the tavern property became the cele- 
brated Moscow Academy, for many years presided 

over by Rev. . Latta. The milestone in front 

of this house is the first giving the distance both 
ways, viz., 43 m. to P.; 19 m. to L. 

47. The Cross Keys. A wagon stand near the forty- 

fourth milestone from Philadelphia, the eighteenth 
from Lancaster. 

48. The Mount Vernon. In Sadsbury Township, Lan- 

caster County, between the forty-fifth and forty-sixth 
milestones, a short distance west of the Chester 



26 JTayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

County line. The Inn Is still kept as a licensed house, 
and stands at the intersection of the road leading 
from Christiana to Limeville. 

49. Clemson Tavern. " The Continental." Formerly 

west of the forty-seventh milestone. This was also 
known as the " Gap Tavern." The house stood on 
the north and the barn on the south side of the 
tavern ; and it was currently reported there was a 
tunnel leading from one to the other. It was the 
rendezvous of the notorious "Gap gang" broken up 
by the conviction of Amos Clemson, who died in 
prison, and others of its leaders. 

50. The Rising Sun. Also known as " The Sign of the 

Rising Sun " and *' The Sign of the Rising of the 
Sun." A tavern on the turnpike near the forty- 
eighth milestone at the crossing of the pike by the 
Newport road. The locality is still known as the 
Gap. The Inn was a wagon stand for the teamster 
and wagoner. In 1801 It was kept by John Young, 
and for a time was the meeting place for a Masonic 
Lodge. 

5 1 . Slaymaker's Tavern. A noted stage stand and post 

house, on the north side of the turnpike between the 
fort>'-eighth and forty-ninth milestone. It was kept 
by a family from which it took its name. Amos 
Slaymaker was a member of the firm of Reeslde & 
Slaymaker, who operated a line of stages on the turn- 
pike before the time of railroads. In 1832 Wm. D. 
Slaymaker was the local postmaster. 

52. Kinzer's Tavern. Between the forty-ninth and fiftieth 

milestone. 

53. Williamstown. Between the fifty-first and fifty- 

second (tenth and eleventh) milestone, now known 
as The Vintage and Is an ordinary country tavern. 




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From Leatfian Place to Lancaster. 27 

54. The Plow and Anchor. At Leaman Place between 
the fifty-second and fifty-third milestone (ninth and 
tenth). This Tavern was kept for many years by 
John Reynolds, an ancestor of General John F. 
Reynolds. The old inn is now the residence of Miss 
Mary Leaman, who still treasures the signboard of 
the old inn. 

SS' Paradise Tavern. Near the fifty-third (ninth) mile- 
stone. 

56. Soudersburg Tavern. 

57. Geiger's Tavern. 

58. The Running Pump. Near the fifty-fifth (seventh) 

milestone, on what is now known as the Buckwalter 
farm. 

59. Greenland Tavern. West of Mill Creek, between 

the fifty-eighth and fifty-ninth (third and fourth) 
milestone. 

6o- Tavern. (Bridgeport.) East end of Wit- 

mer's Bridge over Conestoga River. 

61." Conestoga Inn " Tavern. West bank of Conestoga 
River at Witmer's Bridge. 

62. The Swan at Lancaster. Kept by Col. Matthias 
Slough from 1761 to 1806. This noted tavern was 
built in 1754. This inn was a stage stand of the 
first order, and was the scene of many important 
gatherings, social, political and Masonic. The regu- 
lar meetings of Lodge No. 43, F. & A. M., being 
held at the Swan Tavern from June, 1788, until 
June, 1792. 



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OLD INNS ON THE LANCASTER ROAD SIDE. 



THE SPREAD EAGLE TAVERN NEAR THE I4TH MILESTONE 




IT 



N the extreme northwestern 
part of Radnor township, in 
Delaware county, on the Lan- 
caster Turnpilce, fourteen miles 
west of Philadelphia, formerly 
stood at the base, as it were, of 
the South Valley Hill, a large 
three-story stone building with 
porch and piazza extending 
along the entire front. 

By the date stone, high up in 
the gable the wayfarer could 
still plainly see the year when the house was completed, 
the legend read " 1796." This building, one of those 
monuments by which we may be able to trace the past, 
was formerly the justly celebrated " Spread Eagle 
Tavern," known far and wide to travellers from both 
continents; built, as the stone informs us, in the year fol- 
lowing the one in which was completed the first link of 

28 



Adam Ramsower. 29 

what was to be the first great National highway to the 
West, and at the date of the building of the Inn connected 
Philadelphia, then the Capitol City of the United States, 
with Lancaster, the second important town of the Com- 
monwealth, and it may here not be amiss to say that to 
Pennsylvania's private citizens who subscribed almost half 
a million dollars to complete this great work of internal 
improvement, belongs unquestionably the praise of having 
constructed the first stone turnpike in the Union. 

The turnpike at this point for a short distance occupies 
the bed of the old Provincial or King road. The present 
building supplanted a small rude stone house, which was 
kept as a house of entertainment by one Adam Ramsower 
as early as 1769. The following year he petitioned to 
have his license renewed. In his petition to the Court 
August 28, 1770, he says: "Your Honors hath been 
pleased for these several years past to grant me your 
recommendation to the Governor for a license to keep a 
public house of entertainment," &c. Anthony Wayne 
appears as one of the subscribers to this petition. 

The following year Ramsower advertised the place for 
sale as shown by the following advertisement in a Phila- 
delphia newspaper: — 

" To BE Sold 
on Thursday the 26th of December instant A Valuable 
messuage, plantation and tract of land, situate in Radnor 
Township, Chester County adjoining the Lancaster road, 
Containing near 100 Acres of good land, about 16 miles 
from Philadelphia, about 70 acres are cleared and the re- 
mainder exceedingly well timbered about 14 acres of very 
good watered meadow, and an excelent Orchard that bears 
plentifully every year; the dwelling house Is a large well 
3 



30 IVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

finished stone building, and a well accustomed tavern, 
known by the name of the " Spread Eagle " and Is well ac- 
commodated with a barn, stables, sheds, gardens &c a 
pump of good water near the door, with trough to water 
creatures. Any person inclining to purchase may come 
and view the premises before the day of Sale, at which 
time the Conditions of Sale will be made known by 

"Adam Ramsower." 
{Pennsylvania Gazette, Dec. 19, 177 1.) 

The next official knowledge we have of the tavern is 
the following curious petition, together with the quaint 
"certificate of character" which accompanied it when 
handed into Court. 

"To the Worshipful Justices of Court of General 
Quarter Sessions of the Peace, held and Kept at Chester 
the 25th day of August, 1772 : 

" The petition of Jacob Hinkel of Said County, Humbly 
Sheweth : 

"That your petitioner hath lately purchased the mes- 
suage and plantation where Adam Ramsower lately dwelt, 
situated in Radnor township, in said county, at which place 
a house of public entertainment hath been kept for a num- 
ber of years past, known by the name of 'Spread Eagle;' 
your petitioner therefore prays that your honors will be 
pleased to grant him a recommend to his honor, the 
Governor, for a license to keep a public house of entertain- 
ment at the place aforesaid and your petition shall pray. 

Jacob Hinkel." 
"Lancaster county ss. 

" Whereas, Jacob Hinkel, tanner, the bearer hereof, who 
hath resided within the County for the term of 12 years, 



The Old Eagle. 31 

19 now moving to Chester county with the intention to 
keep a house of public entertainment on the road leading 
from Philadelphia to Lancaster at the noted tavern of 
the ' Spread Eagle ' and whereas, the said Jacob Hinkel 
did petition to us subscribing magistrates and other in- 
habitants of Lancaster county for a testimony of his char- 
acter whilst he lived in the said county, and also for a 
recommendation to the magistrates of said count}' of 
Chester. 

" This is therefore to certify that the said Jacob Hinkel 
whilst he lived in said county acted the parts of a true and 
honest member of the civil government, and as such by 
virtue of our underwritten names, we do heartily recom- 
mend him to the worshipful, the Judges of the Peace of 
the County of Chester, etc, etc. 

Edward Shippen, 
Emanuel Carpenter, 
James Clemson, 
and ten others, 
Lancaster, the fourth day of August, 1772." 

At the commencement of the Revolutionary period the 
house was known as the gathering place of the patriots of 
the vicinity, while "Miles" old tavern, a short distance 
below, which had been rechristened "The Unicorn" and 
was then kept by a loyal Irishman, was patronized by the 
citizens who were either Tory or Loyalists. 

During the alternate occupation of this territory by the 
opposing forces 1777-8, the house became somewhat of a 
land mark, several reports and letters In reference to the 
military situation being dated at, or mentioning the 
"Spread Eagle" tavern. During the encampment of the 
American army at Valley Forge the inn for a time was used 



32 Way side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

as an outpost, where the large chestnut tree on the West 
side of the Valley road, about fifty feet North of the 
present turnpike, was utilized as a signal station, or out- 
look for that picket; this tree still standing (1886) may 
easily be recognized on the road leading to the present rail- 
road station; it also marks the boundary line between Dela- 
ware and Chester counties. 

The inn continued in the possession of Jacob and Daniel 
Hinkel until 1778 and possibly until 1781, although no 
records are known to exist, stating who kept the house 
between those years. We know that one Alexander Clay 
was in charge, from 1787 until 1791, when Adam Siter 
appears, and he was followed by John Siter, during whose 
time the new house was built. 

As soon as the turnpike was finished it at once became 
the main artery of travel between the East and West. As 
the line of the new road at some points deviated a con- 
siderable distance from the old provincial road many of the 
colonial inns which had been landmarks for a century 
became useless on account of their distance from the new 
turnpike, others which were still accessible did not come 
up to the needs or demands of the increased travel brought 
forth by the new state of affairs. 

Of the numerous inns which were at once projected 
and built along the line of the new thoroughfare, the 
" Spread Eagle " Tavern was one of the largest as well as 
the most pretentious public houses between Philadelphia 
and Lancaster. 

The first sign board of the tavern was supported by two 
tall masts planted on the south side of the road; and is 
said to have been painted by one of America's most dis- 
tinguished artists. It was a representation of the out- 
spread American eagle as depicted on the silver dollar of 



Sitersville. 33 

that date with the shield of the Union on its breast, the 
wings extended, and grasping in one talon the arrows of 
war, while in the other the olive branch of peace; a blue 
scroll in his beak with the emblazoned legend " E Pluribus 
Unum " and thirteen stars for an event completed the 
gorgeous sign of the new candidate for the patronage of 
the traveling public. 

Shortly after Martin Slough's successful attempt in 
1795 to run a four-horse stage between Philadelphia and 
Lancaster, stage coach lines continued to increase on the 
new road, and the Spread Eagle at once sprang into popu- 
larity with the traveling public, as well as with the 
"wagoners" and "teamers"; for at that early day the 
furnishings and cuisine of the hostelry were probably un- 
surpassed in the State. It is said that during the summer 
and fall of 1798 when the Capitol city was again visited 
by the yellow fever scourge, our inn was crowded with 
members of the Government, as well as attaches of the 
accredited representatives of the foreign powers in Phila- 
delphia. 

It was not long before quite a hamlet grew up in the 
vicinity of the busy inn, besides the usual blacksmith and 
wheelwright shops, livery stable, barns and other out- 
buildings attendant to an inn of the first rank. There was 
a flourishing saddlery as well as a village cobbler and 
tailor. The large "Eagle" store on the opposite side of 
the turnpike still does a flourishing trade to this day. A 
post-ofl'ice was located here at an early day and the hamlet 
became known to the world and on the maps and gazetteers 
of the day as "Sitersville." 

The inn on account of its distance from the city became 
the stopping place of both mail, post and accommodation 



34 JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

stages for meals and relays, it being the first station west 
and the last relay station eastward. 

It also was the usual breakfast station for the stages 
leaving Philadelphia at four and five o'clock in the morn- 
ing. In 1 807 the price charged stage passengers was 3 1 34 
cents per meal while others were only charged 25 cents. 
The reason given for this discrimination was, that being 
obliged to prepare victuals for a certain number of pas- 
sengers by the stage, whether they came or not, it fre- 
quently caused a considerable loss of time, and often a 
waste of victuals, whereas in the other case they knew to a 
certainty what they would have to prepare. 

The expense of traveling by the stages from Philadel- 
phia to Pittsburg at this period was $20 and iiYi cents 
for every pound of luggage beyond fourteen. The 
charges, by the way, for meals and lodging were about $7. 
The whole distance was 297 miles, and was performed in 
six days. 

The expense by wagon was $5 per cwt. for both persons 
and property, and the charges by the way amounted to 
about $12. It would take twenty days or more to per- 
form the journey by wagon. 

The favorite liquid refreshments dispensed over the bar 
and drank by the hardy " wagoners " and travelers in these 
early times besides whisky, brandy, rum and porter, were 
such as "cyder" plain, royal or wine; "apple" and 
"peach" brandy; "cherry bounce," &c. Among the 
better class of stage travelers a good bowl of "punch" 
was always in order and never out of order. 

It is not known just how long John Siter remained in 
charge. He was succeeded by Edward Siter, who for two 
years retired from the old Inn, as is shown by following 
advertisement. 



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A New Sign Board. 35 

" Edward Sixer 
Late of the Spread Eagle on the Philadelphia and Lan- 
caster Turnpike road, takes the liberty of Informing his 
friends and the public in general that he has taken that 
large store on South East corner of Market and Eighth 
Sts Number 226 in Philadelphia where he is now opening 
a good assortment of groceries, wholesale and retail on the 
most reasonable terms, where country produce will be 
bought or stored and sold on commission with punctuality. 

He believes himself from his former conduct In business 
to obtain a share of publick patronage." 

{Federalist, Dec. 9, 18 12.) 

Edward SIter was succeeded by James Watson for two 
years. But the venture of neither proving successful we 
find Edward SIter again in charge of the inn until the year 
1817. 

The following five years — 18 17 to 1823 — David Wil- 
son, jr., was the host. Zenas Wells kept the Inn 1823, 
1824 and 1825. 

For a short time during the first quarter of the century, 
most probably while the house was in charge of Wilson 
or Wells, a change was made on the old signboard, 
another neck and head being added by a local artist, thus 
changing our glorious bird of freedom Into one of those 
nondescript birds with two heads as used In ancient 
heraldry; this change is still fresh in the memory of several 
octogenarians who yet live In the vicinity. It is further 
said that this change was caused by some political excite- 
ment rife at that time. The new signboard, however, 
caused much merriment among the neighbors and wagon- 
ers, who could not see the utility of the change, and by 
them the house was nicknamed the " Split Crow," and In 
an article written about 6^ years ago by Mr. George W. 



36 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

Lewis (still living) the house is referred to by that name. 
After Edward W. Siter came in possession, in 1825, the 
signboard was again Americanized, and after being re- 
painted remained until it was finally effaced by the action 
of the elements about the time the usefulness of the house 
as an inn had passed away. 

Among the curious customs pevalent at this time, was 
for the smiths to burn their own charcoal, and it was not an 
uncommon sight for the traveler to see a charcoal kiln on 
fire back of the shops. 

The continuing increase of travel and patronage soon 
necessitated the erection of more taverns; it is said they 
eventually averaged about one to the mile between the 
Eagle and Downingtown. The first of these new turn- 
pike inns stood about three quarters of a mile west of the 
Eagle, on the eastern end of what was then known as the 
'* Glassley Commons." The inn was known as the 
"Lamb"; it was established by John Lewis about 18 12 
or 13, who remained there for two years, when he was 
succeeded by the " dingers," father and son, who re- 
mained in charge until the necessity for a public house 
there had passed away. 

A few hundred rods east of the Eagle where the old 
road intersects the turnpike stood an old provincial inn, 
"The Unicorn." This house was built in 1747 by one 
James Miles. A license was granted to him in the follow- 
ing year. This inn was known on the early distance 
tables as " Miles Tavern," being 16 miles, i qr., 26 perches 
from the Court House in Philadelphia on the road to 
Lancaster, and is noted on the quaint pamphlet published 
by Wm. Bradford in Philadelphia in 175 1. This build- 
ing is no doubt still recollected by the residents of the town- 
ship; also its destruction by fire on St. Valentine night, 



Life on the Turnpike. 37 

Februar}', 1872, attended unfortunately by the loss of a 
life, an old man being burned to death in the attempt to 
save some of his effects. 

These two taverns just mentioned took most of the over- 
flow which could not be accommodated at the Spread 
Eagle, still it is yet within the recollection of many persons 
when the yards of all three inns were filled to their utmost 
capacity with wagons, stages and teams, while the bar- 
rooms within resounded with the roystering song or ribald 
jests of the hardy wagoner. 

The travel on the turnpike reached its height probably 
during the latter part of the '20's, just previous to the 
building of the Philadelphia & Columbia Railroad by the 
Canal Commissioners of the State. During this era all 
was life and bustle about the Inn; there was hardly a 
moment during the twenty-four hours of the day that there 
was not some travel past the Inn. It was a frequent sight 
to see long lines of Conestoga wagons going towards the 
city loaded with the products of the West or going in the 
opposite direction freighted with the productions of East- 
ern mills or foreign merchandise; these wagons were 
usually drawn by five stout horses, each horse having on 
its collar a set of bells consisting of different tones, which 
made very singular music as the team trudged along at the 
rate of about four miles an hour. Emigrants could also 
frequently be seen on their way, generally in companies 
for mutual assistance, going with their families and worldly 
possessions towards the new West — there to settle and 
found homes for their posterity. Large herds and flocks 
also furnished their quota to this ever moving living 
panorama. 

Within the tavern all would be life and animation, on 
warm, fair nights the porch as well as the piazza above 



38 JFayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

was illuminated by large reflecting lamps, when on such 
occasions congregated the ladies and gentlemen who were 
stopping there either permanently or merely temporarily to 
while away the time and watch the life and bustle on the 
road in front of the Inn, as well as in the yard beyond; the 
shouts and activity of the hostlers and stablemen at the 
arrival or departure of the mail or post coach, the rapidity 
with which the horses were unhitched, or replaced by fresh 
relays after the passengers had refreshed themselves, the 
number of travelers on horseback or private conveyance, 
the occasional toot of a stage horn or ringing of the 
hostler's bell, all tended to form a continuous change of 
scene. In 1823 there were no less than eleven principal 
lines of " Land Stages," daily running on the turnpike to 
and from Philadelphia past the Eagle. These were 
known as the " Berwick," " Downingtown," " Harrisburg 
Coachee," "Harrisburg Stage," "Lancaster Accommoda- 
tion," "Lancaster Coachee," "Lancaster and Pittsburg 
Mail," " Mifilin, Lewistown, via Harrisburg," " Philadel- 
phia and Pittsburg via York," " Pittsburg via Harris- 
burg," "Philadelphia and West Chester" besides numer- 
our lines of accommodation stages. The fare for way 
passengers was usually six cents per mile; through fare 
from Philadelphia to Pittsburg was $18.50 each way, 
meals and lodging extra. 

The "Coachee" was a carriage peculiar to America, 
the body was rather longer than that of a coach, but of the 
same shape. In the front it was left open down to the 
bottom, and the driver sat on a bench under the roof of the 
carriage. There were two seats in it for passengers, who 
sat with their faces towards the horses. The roof was 
supported by posts placed at the corners, on each side of 
the doors, above the panels; it was open and to guard 



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spread Eagle Post Office. 39 

against bad weather; there were curtains made to let down 
from the roof and fasten to buttons placed for the purpose 
on the outside. There was also a leathern curtain to hang 
occasionally between the driver and the passengers. The 
Coachee had doors at the side, since the panels and body 
were generally finely finished and varnished. 

As an instance of the importance of the Spread Eagle as 
a post town, a comparison of the receipts of the United 
States post office for the year ending March 31, 1827, 
shows there was a larger amount of postage collection 
there than at any other tavern post office on the turnpike 
east of Downingtown, viz.: $60.25. During the same 
period the collections at the Paoli were but $6.54. 

In the year 1825, Edward W. Siter became the land- 
lord of the Spread Eagle and remained until 1836, when 
Stephen Home appears as the lessee, who had for some 
time been connected with the house. 

On the evening of September 15th, 1834, an incident 
occurred which probably caused more excitement and sen- 
sation in the immediate vicinity of Siterville than had ever 
been known on any previous occasion within the memory 
of the oldest inhabitant. This was caused by the descent 
of Mr. James Mills' balloon, which had started on an 
aerial voyage from Philadelphia at half-past four o'clock 
in the afternoon. The following is the bold aeronaut's 
own description of what took place: 

"Warned by the increasing obscurity of the world below 
I began to descend and at six o'clock and twenty minutes 
reached the earth in a fine green field, near the Spread 
Eagle, on the Lancaster Turnpike, 16 miles from Phila- 
delphia. As I descended very slowly, two young gentle- 
men and Dr. M , of Philadelphia, came to my assist- 
ance, and laying hold of the car in which I remained towed 



40 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

me about a quarter of a mile to the tavern, where I 
alighted, balloon and passenger, safe and sound. Before 
discharging the gas, several ladies got successively into the 
car and were let up as far as the anchor rope would permit. 
The gas was let out and the balloon folded. In doing this 
a cricket was unfortunately included, and having to cut his 
way out he made the only break in the balloon which oc- 
curred on this expedition. Mr. Home, of the Spread 

Eagle, treated me with great kindness, and Dr. M 

politely offered me a conveyance to the city, which I 
reached at one o'clock this morning." 

After the completion of the railroad which was located 
at this point, about half a mile to the north of the turnpike, 
and the successful attempt at steam transportation, the 
decline of the Inn was rapid, the glory of the once noted 
hostelry waned year after year, and it soon became merely 
a cross road country tavern with no patronage except what 
the laboring population in the vicinity supplied. 

The only exception to this desolation was during the 
W'inter when the sleighing was good then for a time the 
old tavern would for a short period be galvanized into a 
new life as it were. Open house would be held all night; 
four to six musicians were m attendance, and as sleigh load 
after sleigh load of young people would arrive to refresh 
themselves and enjoy a dance or two, some of the old 
scenes of life and activity approximating the former glories 
of the tavern were reproduced. To such as participated 
in any of these parties the cheerful rubicund face of the 
host will no doubt be recalled, whether it was Ned Slter, 
Steve Horn, or Benny Kirk. However even these sleigh- 
ing parties are now things of the past, and almost unknown 
to the present generation in the vicinity. 

After changing ownership many times the Inn finally 



A School for Indian Girls. 41 

came into possession of George W. Childs, of Phila- 
delphia, who bought the property so as to prevent anyone 
obtaining a license for the sale of liquor so near his venture 
at Wayne station, a short distance below on the turnpike. 

In the following Summer the use of the building was 
given by its benevolent owner to the Managers of the 
Lincoln Institution of Philadelphia as a Summer home for 
the large number of Indian girls who were being trained 
and educated by that Institution. Fears had been enter- 
tained by the Managers and patrons of the Institution that 
a hot Summer in the city might prove disastrous to the 
Indian children, so it was determined to try the experiment 
of sending the girls to the country for half the year pro- 
vided such removal would in no way interfere with their 
training or studies. Therefore the Managers of the 
school concluded to accept the kind and opportune offer of 
Mr. Childs allowing them the use of the old Inn and sur- 
rounding grounds free of charge. It, however, cost the 
Institution over a thousand dollars to make the former 
hostelry habitable and suitable for their purpose. It was 
not long before almost a hundred girls were so established 
in their new temporar}' home and the experiment from the 
very start proved itself a complete success. 

The old Spread Eagle once more became a point of 
attraction, not only with the residents or sojourners in the 
vicinity, but also for the curious and sympathetic, some 
from a remote distance. Public religious services were 
held every Sunday at Wayne Hall; these services were 
always largely attended, on which occasion the choir, music 
and the responses, according to the ritual of the Protestant 
Episcopal Church, were entirely rendered by the Indian 
girls, who seemed to thoroughly comprehend the meaning 
of the services. 



42 JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

It was a beautiful, yet strange spectacle to see these 
dusky maidens, descendants of the aborigines, going two by 
two, from their services, as they trudged along the smooth 
white turnpike, sober and demure with their prayer book 
and hymnal in their hands; where but a little ov^er two 
centuries ago their people had roamed and hunted free 
and undisturbed by anything approaching civHization, as 
monarchs of these glorious hills and valleys. Now no 
vestige of this former race remains but an occasional arrow 
dart ploughed up by the husbandman as he tills the soil. 
During these two summers several traveling Indian bands 
that visited Philadelphia also visited the school at the old 
Inn, and it is said that the impressions made upon their 
minds, and the reports they made when they returned home 
were of the greatest use to the school. Probably the most 
noteworthy and interesting of the visits was the one when 
the celebrated " Sitting Bull" accompanied by his band, all 
resplendent in scarlet blankets, leggings and feathers, with 
faces and hands daubed and streaked with vermilion and 
chrome yellow, came and spent a few hours at the old Inn; 
quite a feast was prepared for them by the Indian girls 
which they seemed to enjoy, still not a muscle moved In 
their stolid countenances which could be construed as either 
showing approbation or displeasure. 

One of the most Interesting events during the sojourn of 
the Indian girls at the old tavern was the entertainment 
given on the evening of September 24, 1884, at Wayne 
Hall. It consisted of a series of twenty-two tableaux illus- 
trative of Longfellow's beautiful poem of Hiawatha. 
The Rev. Joseph L. Miller, chaplain of the Institution, 
read those portions of the poem descriptive of the scenes as 
presented by the dusky children. There were 10 char- 
acters represented in the tableaux. All the scenes passed 



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End of the Old Hostelry. 43 

off successfully, and were well applauded by the large audi- 
ence present. Among the most vivid pictures were " The 
Indian's Home," Hiawatha's "infancy" with an Indian 
Lullaby, and "Hunting," "The Ambush," "Hunters' 
Return " and " Lover's Advent." The " Wedding Feast," 
with its songs and dances were the crowning features of the 
evening. In this scene the stage was filled with the girls 
and boys of the institution all in striking costumes brilliant 
in color and beads, feathers, tassels, fringes and other 
trinkets. A wedding song was sung, then came the dance, 
after which a chorus of over thirty Indians sang a hymn in 
the Dakota language. 

The old tavern was used by the Lincoln Institution dur- 
ing the years 1884-5, when after several vain attempts on 
part of the managers to buy the property from Mr. Childs, 
they vacated the old Inn and purchased ten acres of wood- 
land on the northern slope of the south Valley hill, about 
I ^ miles northeast of the old inn, where they erected three 
large buildings as a permanent summer school; this is now 
known as " Po-ne-mah." 

The suburban village and improvements which have 
sprung up on all sides of the old hostelry, with the at- 
tendant pleasure travel, on the turnpike now again put in 
first class condition by the Lancaster Avenue Impovement 
Company, so far have had little effect on old " Siterville." 
At the present writing (1886) the old inn though in good 
repair is closed and without an occupant, and looms up on 
the roadside like a dark and sombre relic of the past, with 
nothing to remind the present generation of its departed 
glories. 




THE WARREN TAVERN NEAR THE 20TH 
MILE STONE. 

I ^y^^'V-.''^^'^ I HE traveller of the present day 
Ixdialb'-,.^.^::. ' .'f,''^HtB>Kl on the Lancaster turnpike, 

arter leaving the Green 
Tree," or Duffryn Mawr, 
crosses under the railroad 
where the old deserted stone 
road now running, north to 
the rival highway with its 
quadruple tracks, which so 
completely supplanted it, here 
commences his descent into 
the Great Chester Valley, winding around the hillside. 
After passing the Green Tree store, so long presided 
over by the Bakers and Philips, and the new hall of 
Thomson Lodge, No. 340, F. & A. M., the twentieth 
mile stone with the attendant toll-booth, is soon reached. 
At this point the pike enters a gorge in the chain of 
the South Valley hills, and at the foot, after crossing 
the long stone bridge over the rivulet which pours down 
the hillside through the ravine which here intersects the 

44 




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The Admiral Vernon. 45 

a commodious house, of ample dimensions, two stories in 
height, capped by a sharp gable, pierced with three dormer 
windows, the enclosure within the bounds of the snow- 
white picket fence (1888) dotted with numerous outbuild- 
ings — the evergreens of stately growth, all tend to attract 
the attention of the traveller of the present day, and give 
the stranger an impression that the structure is one of more 
than ordinary importance, and a well-preserved relic of a 
former period — perhaps dating back to the Colonial 
period, and that it was the home of some brave, sturdy 
soldier of the Revolution, who wore the blue and buff, and 
on many a field performed deeds of valor and prowess 
while opposing the hirehng invader. 

In the first surmise the stranger would be correct. The 
house in question, and the more primitive structure which 
it replaced, was for over a century one of the best known 
landmarks on the Lancaster roadside. When first opened 
as a public house in the fourth decade of the last century, 
the sign-board as it swung and creaked in the wind bore 
the image and name of Admiral Vernon. This was, how- 
ever, soon changed to the Admiral Warren. After the 
Revolution, in turnpike days, it was known to all travellers 
as the "Warren," the British Admiral giving place on the 
sign-board to the patriot general, who died for his country 
on Bunker Hill. After the turnpike was completed toward 
the close of last century, it was not long before the house 
became a tavern stand or stage house of the first class, 
being equaled in reputation and patronage only by the 
"Eagle," "Paoli" and "Downings"; the reputation of 
the " Good-cheer" and the cleanliness of the bedding made 
it one of the most desirable stopping places on the thor- 
oughfare. Among the guests who patronized the inn, and 

4 



46 IVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

who found shelter under the hospitable rooftree, drank 
the wines, and enjoyed the products of the larder, were to 
be numbered presidents, judges, foreign potentates, and 
the most distinguished travelers from this and foreign 
climes. 

The scenes of life and activity then to be seen daily in 
the " tavern yard " in front of the hostelry were not sur- 
passed at any other point on the road; the arrival and 
departure of the stagecoaches, the genial host " Funny- 
stock " always present to greet the new arrivals, or to wish 
the departing ones bon voyage ; the bustling hostlers and 
stablemen, together with the shouts of the drovers, busy 
in the large cattle pens, stables and shelters, then on the 
opposite side of the turnpike, the passing teamsters, with 
strings of tinkling bells on the horse yokes, all tended to 
make up the ever-recurring scenes of excitement at this 
renowned halting place on the Lancaster roadside. 

When, however, in the course of time the stone age of 
travel, as the turnpike days may well be called, was super- 
seded by that of iron and steam, the Warren, in com- 
mon with its chief competitor the " Spread-Eagle, " was 
left stranded far from the new road, and soon the inn from 
being one of the most busy spots between Philadelphia and 
Lancaster rapidly fell into decay, and after the withdrawal 
of the stagecoaches dropped to the level of an ordinary 
cross-road country tavern, and at the present day all that 
is left to remind the present generation of even the exist- 
ence of such a noted landmark is the name of the local 
postoffice, viz.: "Warren Tavern," and even this is in 
danger of being before long a thing of the past, as lately 
there has been started a movement looking to a change of 
name, as was the case with the " Spread-Eagle " by some 
supercilious newcomers, on whose sensitive ears the word 



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The Great Road from Lancaster. 47 

" Tavern " seems to grate harshly, and who have no Idea 
of the derivation of the name, and who If they achieve 
their object may perhaps succeed In replacing the name of 
the revolutionary hero with that of one of his British of 
Hessian opponents, a proceeding which would be entirely 
In keeping with the course pursued by the Anglo-maniacs 
who have lately cropped out among us. 

How In 1733 the great road from Lancaster was laid 
out to a point In Chester County, near the " Sign of the 
White Horse," and the action taken by the residents of 
Tredyffrin, Easttown and WUlIstown and adjoining town- 
ships to have the road completed to the Schuylkill has been 
set forth in the preceding articles. It was not until No- 
vember 6, 1 74 1, when the final return of the commissioners 
giving the route to the Schuylkill was presented to Lieut. 
Governor George Thomas and Council. By this report 
we find that the new road was laid out eastward from the 
" Sign of the White Horse " along the old road " until near 
Robert Powell's House, then leaving the old road, and on 
George Aston's land south 72 degrees, east 200 perches to 
a run, thence 80 perches, whence it again meets the old 
road, then on it south 33^ degrees, east 21 perches, then 
In WUlIstown south 33^ degrees, 20 perches, &c., &c." 

By the above survey it will be seen that at the time there 
was no house on the site of the Warren, or mention would 
certainly have been made of It. It is safe to assume that 
George Aston built the house as soon as the road was 
open for travel, at the point where the road crossed the 
run, and the ascent of Valley Hill commenced through the 
notch, or gulf before described. This was not until 1 743-4, 
and in the latter year we find Aston a resident of East 
Whiteland, as well as a prominent member of St. Peter's 
congregation In the Valley. He was also an active factor 



48 fVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

in building the stone church (St. Peter's) in the Valley. 
The church records state that: "April 15th, 1745, was 
held a vestry in St. Peter's Church, which was the first 
there ever held." George Aston is among those chosen as 
vestrymen, and in the subsequent allotment of pews No. 4 
fell to his lot. He was the eldest son of George Aston, 
who purchased 500 acres of land, and settled in Cain. He 
was a prominent citizen, and served as one of the justices 
of the county from 1724 to 1729. In the administration 
of his office he, however, seems to have been too zealous 
by encouraging litigation where it should have been 
avoided. Complaint of this fact being made, and coming 
to the knowledge of Hon. Patrick Gordon, the Governor 
acquainted the board that it was necessary that a new com- 
mission of " the Peace for Chester county should be issue, 
and that he had some very good reasons for leaving out 
one, viz : George Aston, who had acted but too much, &c." 
George Aston, the elder, died in 1738, leaving two sons 
and three daughters. George, the eldest, and builder of 
the old wayside inn, married a daughter of Owen Thomas, 
of East Whiteland, and became the owner of the property 
now known as the Warren property. Application for 
license was no doubt made to the Court as soon as the 
house was ready for occupancy. This was granted in 
1745. The inn was located, as was then the universal cus- 
tom, near or at a running stream of water, and situated 
about midway between its rivals — the "Blue Ball" and 
the "Sign of the White Horse" — became from the start 
the stopping place for the churchmen and missionaries as 
they journeyed along the road. The house when first 
licensed was named the " Admr. Vernon," after a cele- 
brated British naval officer, Sir Edward Vernon, the hero 
of Porto Bello, and who in view of his achievements was 



French and Indian Troubles. 49 

then the idol of England. With the outbreak of the 
French and Indian troubles, the gallant capture of Louis- 
burg, June 17, 1745, followed by the victories over 
the French fleet in 1747 by Admiral Peter Warren, 
K.C.B., the latter soon became the ideal hero of the war 
party in the province, of which Aston was a prominent 
member; and it was not long before the former hero was 
supplanted in the minds of the people by the latter, whose 
deeds of valor were performed really to protect the 
colonies. 

The change on the sign board of our wayside inn was 
probably made in 1748 when Aston relinquished the house 
to one Daniel Goldsmith, who rented the inn. It appears 
from the records that for some reason, not stated, the new 
host was refused a license by the Governor in the next year, 
1749. George Aston then again took charge, but when 
the French and Indian troubles broke out in 1753, threat- 
ening the lives and homes of the inhabitants of the Chester 
Valley, while the Governor and the council were squab- 
bling as to whether there should be any defence or not, 
George Aston was among the first men in the county to 
form a company for the defence of the province, and with 
them did his duty well in checking the infuriated savages 
in Northampton County. 

In the account of the public expenditures of the day we 
find an entry, March 2, 1756, where the Assembly voted 
£240, 15s. 4d. "to Captain George Aston for himself and 
his companys pay." 

On account of Captain Aston's prominence as a military 
man, the house now became a rendezvous and center for 
the military as well as the church party in this section of 
the county. In most of the local military documents from 



50 JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

Braddock to Stanwix we find " George Aston's " noted as 
a landmark and stopping place. Aston's son, Owen, be- 
came the County " Wagon Master," while in Roger Hunt's 
account book of 1759, who was a brother-in-law of Cap- 
tain Aston's, we find frequent reference to " George Aston 
at ye Admiral Warren." 

Aston appears to have kept the house during these trou- 
blesome times, when the French and Indians inspired so 
much fear in the community, until 1760, when he was suc- 
ceeded as host by one Peter Valleau. Three years later 
Aston and his wife sold the property to Lynford Lardner, 
of Philadelphia, a brother-in-law of Richard Penn, and 
who was the agent of the Penn family in America. Val- 
leau continued until 1767. Nothing of note is known to 
have occurred during his occupancy. 

He was succeeded by Caleb Parry, who deserves more 
than a passing notice. He was the son of David Parry, 
of Tredyffrin, whose father, James Parry, donated the 
ground on which the Great Valley Presbyterian Church 
was built. During the French and Indian times David 
Parry was one of the associators, and the lad, Caleb, no 
doubt imbibed much of his military spirit from him, and 
at the very outbreak of the Revolution we find Caleb Parry 
commissioned as Lieutenant Colonel in Colonel Atlee's 
" First Regiment of Pennsylvany Musketry," recruited 
mainly from among the Presbyterians in the Chester and 
Pequea Valleys. He was active in all the military opera- 
tions around New York, which culminated so disastrously 
to the patriot cause, and on the memorable 27th of August, 
1776, in the engagement known as the Battle of Long 
Island, Colonel Parry was numbered among the slain, as 
his brother officers stated, " Dying like a hero." An 
account of the affair states: 



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Sale of the Old Inn. 51 

" The men shrunk and fell back, but Atlee rallied them 
and Parry cheered them on and they gained the hill. It 
was here, while engaged in an officer's highest duty, turn- 
ing men to the enemy by his own example, that the fatal 
bullet pierced his brow." 

To return to the roadside inn during the second year 
that Parry was in charge, a danger threatened the inn. 
This was nothing more or less than the petition for license 
of a new house between the Warren and the Blue Ball. 
Parry fearing this would injure his business appealed to 
his landlord, Lynford Lardner, to use his influence with 
the Governor to prevent a license being granted to Joshua 
Evans, the new applicant. Lardner in pursuance to the 
request sent a protest to the Court, in which he states that 
about six years before he had purchased the estate of 
George Aston and wife, three and a half miles from " Blue 
Ball " and three miles from " White Horse," and he feared 
the establishment of another tavern between his and the 
Blue Ball would discourage his tenant, &c. The protest, 
however, did not avail, as the license was granted and the 
*' General Paoli " was the result. Parry remained at the 
Warren for another year after the Paoli was opened, when 
he resigned in favor of Isaac Webb, who was there 
177 1-2-3. ^^ was also a renter and was followed by 
Samuel Johnson, in 1774. In this year Lynford Lardner, 
the owner of the property, died October 6th, and his will, 
proved October 25, 1774, following curious provision is 
made. He orders that his executors " do sell and dispose 
of the iron works newly erected, known as the Andover 
Iron Works, in the Province of New Jersey, and also my 
messuage and tenniment, commonly called by the name of 
Warren Tavern, in the county of Chester, and the planta- 
tions and lands thereunto belonging, which I purchased 



52 JV ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

from George Asheton and wife,, for the payment of just 
debts, and for other purposes in this, my last will, &c., &c." 

In pursuance with the above provision, Catharine Lard- 
ner and John Lardner, the executors, November 2, 1776, 
conveyed the "Admiral Warren plantation, in Whiteland 
township," to Hon. John Penn, of Philadelphia. 

Samuel Johnson was the tenant until the property was 
transferred to the new owner, w^hen he was succeeded by 
Peter Mather, a man of strong Tory proclivities. 

During the term of Webb and Johnson the old inn seems 
to have lost prestige. This was partially caused by the 
" General Paoli " becoming the favorite gathering place of 
the patriot spirits, with which the locality abounded, 
while the Warren and the Unicorn, seven miles below, had 
the reputation of being loyal houses. 

Local tradition tells us that the Warren became the 
gathering place for the Tories In the vicinity, and such 
persons as were disaffected to the patriot cause. Further 
that after the outbreak of active hostilities, meetings were 
frequently held in the house, where British envoys, or offi- 
cers, were present, and information which had been ob- 
tained was sent to the enemy. Notable among the visitors 
to the inn at the time was the talented, but unfortunate. 
Major Andre, who was then a paroled prisoner of war at 
Lancaster, and who had the liberty of certain roads, among 
which was the Philadelphia road to within a point twenty 
miles from the city. 

What good use Andre made of his parole may be sur- 
mised, when it Is known that he is said to have mapped 
the country and suggested the capture of Philadelphia by 
way of the Chesapeake and Great Valley, the plan so suc- 
cessfully carried out by Howe and Cornwallls in the Fall 
of 1777. 



Massacre at Paoli. 53 

In the year 1777, when It was destined that the tide of 
war should surge through our fertile valley — then the 
garden of Pennsylvania — the house was in charge of Peter 
Mather, who, if our traditions be true, was like his prede- 
cessor, a strong tory. This is further strengthened by the 
fact that when the British Army was quartered in the val- 
ley Mather was one of the few who appears to have suf- 
fered no loss, while his immediate neighbors lost almost 
all of their possessions. 

On the eventful night of the 20th of September, when 
the cohorts of the enemy under Grey, accompanied by his 
aid. Major Andre, silently marched up theSwedeford road, 
they wheeled to the left at the road which led to the War- 
ren, where a halt was made, and to divert suspicion from 
the real traitors who guided the advance, the patriotic 
blacksmith at the shops, then situated on the south side of 
the old Lancaster road just north of the present turnpike 
bridge, was forced to get out of his bed and accompany the 
column. This dreadful occurrence of this dark night it is 
unnecessary to repeat here, as they are well-known in his- 
tory as the " Massacre at Paoli," and have been graphically 
described by more able pens than that of the writer. 

After the British had left the vicinity Mather, the inn 
keeper, was publicly charged by his neighbors as being 
responsible for the massacre, also of having guided the 
British. Both of these accusations he strenuously denied, 
producing proof that he had not been out of the house dur- 
ing the night. In confirmation of his statements are the 
two facts, viz. : First, that In no known British letter, report 
or account is mention made of Peter Mather, or his connec- 
tion with the attack; second, that notwithstanding the sus- 
picion attached to him he was permitted to continue to live 
In the house and keep the inn for a number of years. The 



54 JFayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

place, however, was shunned and avoided by most of the 
residents of the vicinity, and the Inn keeper drew his patron- 
age from the chance travellers on the road, who knew noth- 
ing of the odium common report attached to the unfortu- 
nate Boniface. From these facts it may be surmised that 
the enterprise was not a financial success. 

About the close of the Revolutionary war there was con- 
siderable excitement throughout the county In reference to 
the proposed removal of the county seat from Chester, on 
the Delaware, to a more central part In the county. There 
were three points suggested, all being public houses, viz. : 
"Downlng's," the "Turk's Head" (now West Chester), 
and the "Admiral Warren," with the chances in favor of 
the latter on account of Its position in the Great Valley, 
and being within easy reach from all points in the county; 
but the fact that the property was owned by one of the 
Penn family, together with the state of the popular feeling 
towards anything which savored of the old regime, pre- 
cluded the acceptance of the locality on any condition. 
Notwithstanding the activity of John Penn's agents and 
friends the agitation of the matter only tended the more to 
Incense the populace against the old inn; consequently, 
when in 1783, the Assembly passed an Act (March 19) 
doubling the rates of all tavern licenses, the outlook be- 
came still darker for Mather. He, however, held out 
until the property was sold, when he made a sale of his 
personal effects and went to West Chester. Shortly after 
the removal of the count}^ seat there he kept a licensed 
house within the new borough, again succeeding, it Is said, 
the very man — Isaac Webb — who had occupied the "War- 
ren" prior to Mather. In the new location his expecta- 
tions again failed to be realized, so after remaining for a 
year or two he seems to have drifted to the city, where his 




H 
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CO 

o 



Caspar Fahnestock. 55 

ill fortune followed him ; as the people who knew him were 
wont to say " God frowned on him," so he fell lower and 
lower in the social scale. First he drove team or dray, 
but finally in his old age came down to pushing a hand 
cart or wheelbarrow, and even here the boys were wont to 
make his existence miserable by calling after him " Here 
we are and there we go," and " Remember Paoli." 

The ownership of the old Roadside Inn now passed into 
the possession of the Fahnestock family, in whose hands it 
was to remain for more than half a century, and reach a 
renown and popularity second to none of the sixty odd 
hostelries on the roadside between the city and Lancaster. 

Many are the tales told of how Fahnestock bought the 
house; how the vendue crier refused his bid on account of 
his uncouth appearance as he stood there in his long coat 
of undyed homespun, secured by large hooks and eyes in 
lieu of buttons; his long straggling beard and hair but 
partly hidden by his broad brimmed hat, his homemade 
cowhide boots, and worse than all he was clad in a pair of 
pantaloons, a fact which made him the butt of all present. 
Then how he produced the bright jingling coin, and told 
the crier that if his bids wouldn't count his money would, 
and the subsequent discomfiture of the vendue crier. These 
tales and many more of a similar import were told and 
retold in the barrooms, and to travelers in stages along the 
road until they were as current on the pike as they were 
among the children of the cross-roads school, or among the 
old crones who sat besides the hearth, "A whirling their 
wheel, or quilting the coverlids." 

The true facts of the case are that John Penn, the owner 
of the property, was anxious to dispose of the whole prop- 
erty. This by some means became known to Casper Fahne- 
stock, a member of the German Mystic Community at 



56 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

Ephrata, and resulted in Casper, accompanied by Brother 
Jabez (Rev. Peter Miller), the prior of the congregation, 
and another brother, making a pilgrimage down the Lan- 
caster road in the last week of March, 1786, to Philadel- 
phia. They traveled on foot, as was their custom, clad in 
the rough habit of their order with staff in hand, Casper, 
in addition, carrying a pair of saddle bags. When the trio 
arrived at the Warren they craved admittance, but received 
a rebuff from Mather, who told them " no beggars were 
wanted around there," so the three brethren continued on 
to the city. Penn, who was known to Brother Jabez, was 
at once called on, the price agreed upon, the conveyance 
made, executed and acknowledged in open court, March 
31, 1786, before Hon. Edward Shippen, President-Judge 
of the Common pleas. This document states that the 
Hon. John Penn, Esquire, and Dame Anne, his wife, con- 
vey to Casper Fahnestock, of Cocalico township, Lancaster 
county, shopkeeper, the Warren Tavern plantation of 337 
acres, the consideration being two thousand pounds lawful 
money of Pennsylvania in specie of gold or silver. This 
money was paid out of the saddlebags which Casper had 
carried all the way from Ephrata, the subscribing witnesses 
being Peter Miller and Joan Louis Patey. The trio imme- 
diately started west on their return in the same manner as 
they had come. Casper's saddlebags were lightened of 
their weight of coin, but contained the plantation in its 
stead. On their arrival at the tavern, it was long after 
nightfall. The mystic brethren, however, stopped and 
inquired for Mather, who had, it seems, already gone to 
bed. As the latter came down in gown and slippers, Cas- 
per told him that he was now the owner of the property, 
and intended to remain and examine his purchase in the 
morning, a proceeding to which there was no objection 



The Tribe of Fahnestocks. 57 

from the now obsequious Mather. In a few days the old 
Tory made a vendue, at which Casper was a frequent 
bidder, and ere the first week of April had elapsed the old 
Roadside Inn was in charge of the German Sabbatarian 
from the Monastery on the Cocalico. The new host, 
although an old man, being over sixty years of age, soon 
made his presence felt with the wagoners and travellers on 
the road. In view of the succeeding events, an extended 
notice of the first of the name in Chester county, as well 
as his successors will not be amiss. 

Casper Fahnestock was a native of Germany, born in 
1724. He was the eldest son of Dietrich Fahnestock, the 
founder of the "whole tribe of Fahnestocks" (in Amer- 
ica) , as the inscription calls him on his tombstone in the old 
God's Acre of the Sabbath-keepers atEphrata, on the banks 
of the Cocalico. Dietrich, the elder, came to this country 
with his wife, child and two sisters, in 1726. His sole 
possessions consisted of an axe, a weaver's shuttle, a Bible 
and a German thaler. He first settled on the Raritan 
River in New Jersey where the family lived for a number 
of years, but becoming convinced of the truth of the Sabba- 
tarian doctrine, joined that body of Christians, and about 
1748 we find the family residents of Ephrata. In the next 
year, June 21, 1749, a patent was granted him by the 
Governor for 329 acres of land at ? ? ? ? 

as the founder of the " Chester County " Fahnestocks, 
Casper, as were the rest of the family, was a member of 
the Ephrata community ; his aunt even entered the Convent 
Saron, and became known as " Sister Armilla "; they were 
all consistent Sabbath-keepers, Casper and his wife Maria 
in addition keeping several other mosaic laws, such as 
eschewing the use of pork, the use of meats and milk at the 
same meals, &c. It was from these peculiarities that the 



58 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

common Impression arose among his English neighbors, 
that the family were of the Jewish faith. 

The new owner had no sooner taken charge than the 
tavern at once became the stopping place for all of the 
Lancaster county Germans. Menish, Dunker, Omish, 
Lutheran, Reformist and Moravian all found shelter and 
entertainment with theold "Sieben-Tager"* fromEphrata. 
Casper was ably seconded by the members of his family; 
his wife Maria, and mother-in-law, Elizabeth Glelm, took 
charge of the kitchen, the oldest son Charles presided over 
the bar, Daniel, who was a cripple, and his brother Diet- 
rich, assisted in the house and tavern-yard, while the two 
other children, Esther and Catherine, with Charles' wife 
Susan, attended to the wants of the house, table and guests. 
Just six months after the family were domiciled in the old 
tavern Casper's wife's mother, Elizabeth Gleim, died in 
her 75th year. She was buried on the plantation In a small 
clearing on the northern slope of South Valley Hill, about 
one fourth of a mile from the tavern, according to the 
custom of the Sabbatarians of that day; due north and 
south, with prayer and song, the ceremonies being con- 
ducted by the reverend Prior, of the Ephrata community, 
Brother Jabez. This spot was in the course of time sur- 
rounded by a low stone wall and became the burial ground 
of the Fahnestock family (Chester county branch) and 
now through neglect and the ravages of time has become 
about as gruesome a place of sepulture as it is possible to 
imagine. 

At this period of history the German element had in- 
creased to so great an extent in our State, that it actually 
became a question whether the State should not become a 
German State, and that all judicial and legislative proceed- 

* Member of the mystic Seventh-day Baptist Community of Ephrata, 
Lancaster Co., Penna. 



The Language Question. 59 

ings be held in that language. In 1787, the German high 
school was established with a grant of 10,000 acres of 
land. German was introduced into the different charity 
and township schools; all tending to lay the foundation for 
a German commonwealth; the plan cherished by the pro- 
jectors was to eradicate the English language completely. 
The German element held together and won victory after 
victory at the polls over the "die dummen Irischer," as 
their English-speaking opponents were called. At last 
their preponderance became so great that everything 
seemed favorable to bring about the result, viz. : That the 
German language would be legally declared to be the 
tongue of the commonwealth, when the French revolution 
broke out with its attendant influx of French refugees, 
French ideas of atheism, ( foreign to the German character) , 
liberty, equality, etc., etc. This was followed by the gen- 
eral war in Europe, and the almost total cessation of emi- 
gration from Germany. During this state of affairs the 
English-speaking element gained strength from day to day, 
and the German struggle for supremacy, so auspiciously 
begun, soon declined; and it was not long before the high 
school at Lancaster, which was to have been the great uni- 
versity of America, became a thing of the past. Politically, 
however, the Germans for many years continued to hold 
the balance of power. 

Among the wagoners and travelers on the turnpike the 
German element was so largely in the majority that no 
public house could succeed unless some one in charge was 
conversant with the German tongue. As there was no 
question about the nationality of the new host of the War- 
ren, he being German to the core, his great difficulty was 
from the start to provide for those who sought his shelter. 
Further, by his attention to business and the cleanliness of 
the house, the Inn soon became a desirable stopping place 



6o Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

for "Irisher" or "Gentleman," as well as for the 
" Deutscher." It even became a station for the profes- 
sional express rider, a character and occupation long since 
passed away and forgotten. 

Thus matters went on, the patronage and renown of 
" the Dutch tavern," as it was called by the wagoners, 
increased with the travel of the road, and the proprietor 
kept pace with the requirements of the traveling public. 
Casper kept the Corduroy Causeway through the swamp in 
better repair than it had been heretofore, a proceeding 
which pleased the frequenters of the road and proved 
another feature to attract custom to the Inn. This cause- 
way was to the north of the present turnpike bridge, and 
before this time was one of the worst places on the Lan- 
caster road, being often impassable in the spring and 
winter. 

Some idea of the difficulties of the travel in that day may 
be gleaned from the following letters, written just a cen- 
tury ago by Miss Marie Penry, the daughter of a cele- 
brated Welsh physician. She was one of the Moravian 
Sisterhood at Lititz, and gives a graphic description of her 
trip from Philadelphia to Lancaster. Nothing could illus- 
trate more forcibly the great change which has taken place 
during the century in the time and manner of communica- 
tion between the two places. Miss Penry writes that she 
set out from Philadelphia on a Friday morning in Nov^em- 
ber, leaving the city at 8 o'clock. Her traveling com- 
panions consisted besides the driver of Mr. Tilt and wife, 
and two children, seven years old, twins. He was a Brit- 
ish officer who had been a prisoner of war at Lancaster, 
and there married, and on his release went to Halifax, and 
was now on his way to see his relatives. This composed 
the load. When they arrived at Fahnestock's they stopped 



Adventures of a Tourist Party. 6i 

for refreshment for man and beast, and there met an Irish 
gentleman and his wife who had arrived in the country but 
a few days before, and were now on their way to the west- 
ern end of the county. They had hired a chair and came 
thus far, when their driver refused to proceed on account 
of the bad condition of the roads, and being unable to 
procure any conveyance were in consequence stranded in a 
strange land. When the party started on their journey 
they took the "Irish Gentlewoman" as the letter calls 
her, in the stage with them, and as her husband could not 
even get a horse for hire, he was obliged to travel on foot 
along side of the stage. Thus the journey to the Brandy- 
wine commenced. It was, however, not destined to con- 
tinue to the end of their goal, as the extra weight in the 
stage with the roughness of the road, had a bad effect on 
the vehicle, which proved unequal to the strain. The party 
had not proceeded far ere a crack, was heard, and the hind 
axle broke, letting the stage down on the road. Fortu- 
nately the horses were stopped and the passengers gotten 
out of the wreck without injury. The party, the letter 
continues, now all footed it Indian fashion to the nearest 
inn, which was about two miles from where the stage broke 
down (probably the Sheaf of Wheat). On their arrival 
they partook of an ordinary wayside meal. The spirits of 
the party were clouded by the prospect of having to pass 
Saturday and perhaps Sunday there. However, after the 
meal was finished a countryman offered to take the party 
to Downing's for a consideration, as a great favor. His 
team proved to be a country wagon without springs or 
cover, with no seats other than bundles of rye straw. Into 
this vehicle, Miss Penry continues, we went with all our 
packages, and our Irish gentleman, who seemed to think 
that " humble riding was better than proud walking on 
5 



62 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

foot " was but too glad to avail himself of the opportunity 
to join the party. Thus the party arrived long after dark 
at the hospitable house of the " Downings " ; as the fair 
writer adds — " Politeness and good nature had lessened 
every difficulty." 

The time, 1789, from Philadelphia to Downings, was 
over twelve hours, express time 1889 is one hour. 

At this period there were two matters agitating the com- 
munity, both of which seriously affected the usually imper- 
turbable inn-keeper. One was the question of making a 
stone highway, chaussie, or turnpike, to take the place of 
the old road. The second was the action taken by the 
Federal government in taxing whiskey, a matter which was 
destined to lead to the most serious consequences. 

A fact not generally known is, that the first organized 
opposition to the new excise law, took place in our Chester 
county, and the exciseman or collector was roughly used, 
barely escaping with his life. The rioters, however, were 
convicted and punished severely by the State Courts. On 
that occasion the foreman of the jury told the Attorney 
General " that he was much or more opposed to the excise 
law than the rioters, but would not suffer violators of the 
law to go unpunished." 

This opposition thus started extended to the western 
counties, where it culminated in 1794, in what is known in 
history as the "Whiskey insurrection." When President 
Washington issued his requisition for military force to 
quell the incipient insurrection against Federal authority, 
Governor Mifflin, in response to the Federal proclamation, 
made a personal tour through the eastern part of the State 
to arouse the military spirit of the populace. In the prog- 
ress of this trip he came through Chester county and 
addressed the people at various points, among others the 



The Whiskey Insurrection. 63 

Warren Tavern is named, where, it is stated that, notwith- 
standing the protests from the proprietor, who, as a con- 
sistent Sabbath-keeper, was a non-combatant, a recruiting 
office was opened and a company recruited by Edward 
Pearce, which became known as " Captain Parker's Com- 
pany " of Colonel Harris' Regiment, Edward Pearce being 
promoted to the Adjutancy. It was not long before the 
tocsin of war, the piercing note of the fife, and the heavy 
tread of armed men was again heard in our peaceful valley. 
Most of the troops, however, marched by way of the 
Swedesford, striking the Lancaster road a little below the 
" White Horse," The baggage and supplies came out 
over the new turnpike, which had been made here and 
there In sections between the Warren and the city, but 
which on account of the ignorance displayed by those hav- 
ing the enterprise in charge was almost impassable, even 
for the baggage trains. However, the incipient war in 
Western Pennsylvania was soon over, when the efforts to 
perfect the new turnpike were redoubled; the long bridge 
was built and the new road at the "Warren" occupied 
almost all the roadbed of the provincial thoroughfare. 
Casper, to be up to the times, and foreseeing the large in- 
crease in the travel, at an early day set about to prepare 
materials for a new house on as large a scale as the Siters 
had built six miles below. This new house was built so as 
to face on the north side of the turnpike. The old "Ad- 
miral Vernon," similar to all of the inns on the Lancaster 
road, was built on the south side of the road, and it was 
not long ere the new sign board of the " General Warren " 
swung in its yoke on a high mast near the southeast angle 
of the new turnpike tavern. 

With the native thrift of old Casper and his family all 
the work had to be done by themselves — trees were felled, 



64 fV ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

hewed and sawed, lime burned, sand hauled and stone quar- 
ried — for the new hostelry'. A curious anecdote is told 
about old Casper in connection with the latter labor: Dur- 
ing the fine moonlight nights in summer " Old Cas," as he 
was called, would make his men work In the quarry long 
after supper, or, at least, would go and swing the sledge 
by himself. This was not to the taste of the young genera- 
tion, and several made up their minds that they would 
stop the old German and get him out of his Dutch notions. 
So the Pearce boys, the next night, rigged themselves up in 
horns and blankets, carrying heavy log chains, and quietly 
getting near where the old man was cracking the stone in 
the moonlight, jumped up, rattled their chains and uttered 
unearthly yells. The old man, startled for a moment, 
resumed his labor as unconcerned as if they were trees, 
merely saying: " I bees not afralt von yous if you bees der 
teufel," finishing up with, " Wer auf Gott vertraut kan 
weder tod nocht teufel schaden,"* and calmly continued 
his work. 

Another one relates how it would worry the old man 
during harvest when the mowers or reapers would sit down 
longer for rest or refreshments than he thought they ought 
to, and when he could stand it no longer he would come up 
and say, "Now, poys, youse takes a bissel grog (whiskey 
and water) ; es is not goot so long to sitz on de kalt grund; 
takes a bissel grog and youse goes on." 

The new tavern, however, was built and ready long 
before the turnpike was a complete success, for many were 
the trials of the public spirited projectors of the enterprise. 
With the completion of the turnpike there came a demand 
for Increased mail facilities. The government then en- 
grossed with the French question and the Impending war 
with that power, yet found time to accede to the demand 

* Whoever trusts in God neither death nor Satan can harm. 



en «i 

z 




Louis Phillipe. 6$ 

of the people. A post office was established in Downing- 
town April i, 1798, the only one between Philadelphia and 
Lancaster, and the official announcement was made that 
there would be three mails per week between Philadelphia, 
Downingtown and Lancaster, closing one-half hour before 
sunset every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. This was 
hailed with satisfaction by everyone. 

In connection with the French war excitement of 1798 
there is a curious anecdote. Early in the year envoys were 
appointed to France by President Adams. One of these, 
Callender by name. In place of embarking for France left 
the city on a tour westward. Why or what for was not 
known at the time. He got as far as Fahnestock's and 
remained there several days, until on the morning of July 
13th, when he was found by a teamster a little after day 
break laying over 21st mile-stone dead — drunk. 

The explanation of Commissioner Callender's strange 
conduct is very simple when it is known that three fugitive 
French Princes, Louis Phillipe, Duke de Montpensier and 
the Count de Beaujolais, were at that time sheltered under 
the humble, but hospitable roof of the old German Sabbath- 
keeper. It would be difficult to imagine a greater contrast 
than the home of these scions of French royalty at that 
time with their former residence, viz., the Palais Royal at 
Paris. The humble Roadside Inn, however, had this great 
advantage, the three princes were as safe as the humblest 
laborer in the land; their heads were safe on the shoulders 
of their effete bodies. 

It was to consult with these princes that Callender came 
to the old Roadside Inn. The princes naturally did all 
they could to favorably impress the Commissioner and 
gain him for their cause. In this attempt they drew heavily 
on their scant resources, plying the Commissioner liberally 



66 Wayside luns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

with numerous bottles of old Madeira, which had been 
bought by Casper at Mather's sale and which it was 
claimed had come over the water, while yet the signboard 
bore the legend *' Ye Adm'U Vernon." 

It was in this eventful year (1798) that the capital city 
was again visited by the yellow fever scourge. A camp 
for patients was established beyond the Schuylkill, and 
donations of farm and garden produce were solicited. 
The Fahnestocks at once took active measures to collect 
and send the needed supplies to the sufferers, vieing with 
the Downings and Joseph Moore, of East Whiteland, in 
supplying the necessaries and luxuries to the sick and con- 
valescent poor of the fever-stricken city. 

After the road was finished and by its advantages and 
superiority over the common roads came into universal 
favor, with teamsters and travellers, the old tavern stands 
soon had more patronage than they could accommodate; 
this was especially the case with the Fahnestock's. Old 
Casper although having long passed the allotted period of 
three score and ten, still continued as host and proprietor 
of the house, holding to the German maxim that " No 
father should give the reins of his hands to his child as 
long as he lived." However, in 1789, old Casper then 
in his 77th year, was forced by the infirmities of age to 
relinquish the house to his son Charles, who was then In 
his 37th year, and in whose name the license was granted 
for the last year of the Eighteenth Century. 

In the next year (1800), the present blacksmith shops 
were built on the turnpike. As before stated, the old shop 
on the Lancaster road stood in the meadow, about five feet 
north of the turnpike bridge. The top of the roof of the 
old shop was on a level with the low parapet of the present 
bridge and stood there for many years. 



An Indian Incident. 67 

As has been mentioned in a previous article, during the 
period of 1 790-1 800 when Philadelphia was the capital of 
the United States, there were frequently delegations of the 
Indian tribes, who travelled up and down the road in their 
journey to visit the "Great Father"; on one of these 
visits an occurrence took place, which caused much specu- 
lation, and remains to the present day an unsolved prob- 
lem, notwithstanding the many attempts made by the 
Fahnestock family and many others to solve the enigma. 
It was as follows : A short time after the turnpike was 
finished an Indian coming down the road had broken some- 
thing about his gun, and, when he came to the Warren 
asked the smith at the shops to repair it. The blacksmith 
had just run out of charcoal, which was the only kind of 
coal then used by smiths, and told the Indian that he could 
not fix his gun until he had burnt a new kiln of charcoal. 
The Indian asked him if he would do it if he got him coal, 
and getting an answer in the affirmative he took up a pick 
and basket which were in the shops, and giving a grunt 
started for the woods on the South Valley hill. He re- 
turned in about half an hour with a basket full of black 
rocks or stones. The smith tried to make the Indian under- 
stand it was coal that he needed. The Indian merely put 
some of his black stones on the hearth and pulled the bel- 
lows, and to the surprise of the smith the stones com- 
menced to burn. The Indian merely said, "White man 
now fix gun." The now thoroughly surprised smith found 
the Indian's rocks equal to his best charcoal. The gun was 
repaired, and the smith was naturally anxious to know 
where the burning stones were found, but nothing could in- 
duce the Indian to divulge where he had found it except 
that he said "there was much — much," pointing towards 
the wooded hillside. Many were the efforts made from 



68 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

that day to this to discov-er the location, but so far without 
success. 

Although with the advent of the nineteenth century 
Philadelphia had ceased to be the capital city the traffic 
on the turnpike showed no diminution ; our road became 
the great highway to the West. Stage lines were started 
to all points, while wagoning and emigrants increased to 
such an extent that ere long the licensed houses on the road 
between Philadelphia and Lancaster averaged one to the 
mile, and even then the farm houses adjacent to the high- 
way were often called upon to accommodate the overflow. 

When the political question cropped out in relation to 
the western territory, which culminated in the " Aaron 
Burr" fiasco, it became imperative as early as 1804 that 
regular communication should be maintained between 
Philadelphia and the Ohio at Pittsburg, other than by the 
always more or less uncertain post or express rider. Satis- 
factory arrangements, however, were not consummated 
until after much effort on the part of the federal author- 
ities. The first notice of the new enterprise was the follow- 
ing quaint announcement — it was published in but a single 
paper, and is here reproduced in full as a contrast to the 
railroad advertisements of the present day — viz. : 

PHILADELPHIA & PITTSBURG 

MAIL STAGES. 

A contract being made with the Postmaster General of 
the United States for the carrying of the mail to and from 
Philadelphia and Pittsburgh, in stage wagons, a line of 
stages will be in operation on the first of July next, on 
same route, which line will start from John Tomlinson's 
Spread Eagle, Market street, No. 285, Philadelphia, and 
from Thomas Ferree's, the Fountain Inn, Water street, 



Pittsburgh Mail Stage. 69 

Pittsburgh; and perform the same route in seven days from 
the above places. Passengers must pay $20.00 each, with 
the privilege of tw^enty pounds of baggage, all above that 
weight, or baggage sent by above line, to pay at the rate 
of $12.00 per 100 pounds, if the packages are of such 
dimensions as to be admissible for conveyance. 

The proprietors of this line of stages, well knowing the 
arduous undertaking of a new establishment, and aware of 
the laborious task and expense that the prosecutors of 
their necessary engagements will require, are determined 
that their conduct shall be such, as they trust will be sanc- 
tioned by a discerning public and receive their support. 

Printed cards will be distributed, and may be had at the 
proprietors' different stage houses, giving a full detail of 
the distances and times of arrival at the several towns 
through which the line shall pass. 

N. B. — Printers who shall think the above establishment 
a public benefit will please give the same a place In their 
respective papers a few times. 

Philadelphia, June 13, 1804. 

As announced in the above advertisement, promptly at 
8 o'clock on the morning of the 4th of July, 1804, a fit day 
for the starting of the new national enterprise, the stage 
which was to be the first to run through from the Delaware 
to the Ohio was drawn up In front of Tomlinson's Spread 
Eagle stage office, then at the northeast corner of 8th and 
Market streets, the four prancing horses with bridles gaily 
decorated with red, white and blue ribbons. Long before 
the starting time the mail was in the "boot," the straps 
drawn tight, the booked passengers In their seats, while as 
a last precaution an extra keg of fistoil and tar was slung 
to the hind axle, the lynch pin examined and the dust proof 



70 JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

covers fastened over the hubs. Then after another glass 
was drunk the driver and armed guard took their places 
on the box, the lines tightened, the whip cracked and the 
pioneer mail stage to the West left the stage office among 
the cheers of the assembled multitude and whirled rapidly 
out Market street towards Center Square, where another 
ovation awaited the stage and its occupants from the citi- 
zens who were preparing to celebrate Independence Day. 
The new permanent bridge was quickly passed and the 
ironclad hoofs of the four prancing steeds clattered on the 
smooth turnpike. At every tavernstand the passing mail 
was received with cheers and wishes of Godspeed and safe 
journey to the travelers. Stops were only made at such 
stagehouses as the Buck, Eagle, Paoli, and there for liquid 
refreshment only. It was near two o'clock in the after- 
noon, as the stage dashed down the Valley hill through the 
toll gate at the twentieth milestone, when the guard blew 
six sharp blasts on his bugle — this the signal to the host of 
the "Warren" how many guests there would be for din- 
ner; then came the notes of "Independence Day," the 
"Yankee Doodle," the echo taking them up and returning 
them through ravines on the hillside a hundred fold. 
Hardly had the echo faded, when the four prancing steeds 
were reined up in front of the " Warren." The stage door 
was quickly opened, the passengers alighting and meeting 
with a greeting as only Charles Fahnestock was capable of 
extending to the wayfarer. The dust was quickly washed 
down with cold punch, when dinner was served, toasts 
drunk and ample justice done to the viands. In the mean- 
time the anvil of the shops had been brought out into the 
road and improvised as a cannon, and load after load was 
fired in honor of the occasion. During the djinner the relays 
had been brought out, and the stage was once more ready 



The Good Intent Stage Line. 7^ 

for the journey westward. Another punch was drunk, 
hands shaken, and amid wishes of Godspeed, the reports 
of the improvised artillery, and the cheers of the assembled 
neighbors, mingled with the bugle notes of the guard, the 
stage with its freight started merrily up the hill on its way 
towards the Ohio. 

This enterprise of running mail stages through to Pitts- 
burg formed the theme of conversation for the balance of 
the week. Many were the different opinions pro and con 
— prophecies of failure and adverse criticisms; yet notwith- 
standing the headshaking and discouraging comments of 
Old Casper, the stage went through, arrived safely on time 
In a week, and the through mail was an established fact. 
These stages were what in later years was known as the 
" Good Intent Line." The route lay from Lancaster to 
Chambersburg, by way of Carlisle and Strasburg; arriving 
in Chambersburg in two and one half days, averaging 
about four miles an hour, from the latter place to the end 
of the journey; the progress under the most favorable cir- 
cumstances was much slower, the distance from Chamers- 
burg to Pittsburg, about 150 miles, taking four and one 
half days, or about two to two and a half miles an hour. 
There were thirty-five regular stopping places or stages 
between the two cities. At first the enterprise was slow in 
coming into favor with the traveling public. It was not 
until the following year (1805) that the proprietors were 
taxed to their capacity and were forced to run an occasional 
special or extra coach; this was necessitated by the excite- 
ment caused by the Burr Expedition, which had then 
reached its culmination; the success of the through stage 
line opened a new era for the Warren, and the house under 
the management of Charles Fahnestock, became known to 
travelers in this country and Europe, as one of the best kept 



72 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

houses in America. He was a rather spare built man, of 5 
feet 1 1 Inches, with a full beard, and always wore a brown 
or snuff-colored coat and spoke with a strong German 
accent. He was very particular in regard to the sale of 
liquors; ordinary local patronage and wagons were not 
encouraged. The bar was a small arrangement very high, 
and slabs running about 2 inches wide, and 3 Inches apart, 
running from bar to celling. In front there was a small 
opening with an outside shelf holding about four glasses. 
The liquor was measured out by the gill or half gill and 
passed through this opening. When the landlord thought 
a patron had enough he would refuse him any more telling 
him quietly " to sit down awhile." The tavern keeper con- 
fined himself strictly within the old law of 1762 by which 
" Taverns were allowed to sell to regular inmates and 
travellers in moderation," (Acts Assembly, vol. i, pp. 
19-21 — fol. Phlla. 1762.) 

The Fahnestock family had no sooner learned the prin- 
ciples and teachings of their guests than the Owens, Miss 
Wright and their followers were kindly and firmly in- 
formed by Charles Fahnestock that they would have to 
seek other quarters, that the house would afford them 
shelter no longer, nor would he harbor anyone who pro- 
mulgated sentiments similar to theirs, which were so for- 
eign to all religious and moral teachings. Another guest 
during the agitation of Owen's plan for colonization in the 
Great Valley was his Highness Bernhardt, Duke of Sachse- 
Welmar-EIsenach, who was then on a visit to this country. 
The attempt of Owen to Interest the nobleman in his 
scheme resulted as did all of Owen's plans — In failure. 

As before stated, local custom was not encouraged by 
the Inn-keeper, regular habitues of the tavern were few, 
and such as there was were respectable and sober. Charles 



No Liquor on the Sabbath. 73 

Fahnestock was naturally a temperance man, and had the 
courage, when the house was at the height of popularity, 
to close his bar on Sunday. This was an unheard-of inno- 
vation at that day, which called down much adverse criti- 
cism upon him. He, however, persisted, and even went 
so far as to hang a sign over the bar 

NO LIQUOR 

SOLD ON THE 

SABBATH 

and he had enough moral courage to adhere to the deter- 
mination. Among the few of the neighbors who were fre- 
quently to be seen on the tavern porch was an Englishman 
of means, Thomas Bradley, between whom and the inn- 
keeper a strong bond of friendship had arisen. It lasted 
until death parted the two friends in 1829. Thomas 
Bradley was buried in the Fahnestock ground and is the 
only stranger who rests within the enclosure. 

Another visitor who was occasionally to be seen at the 
Warren was Charles Fahnestock's cousin, Andrew. He 
was a Sabbatarian, and on account of his originality and 
appearance always attracted the attention of strangers. 
He always travelled on foot, dressed in a long drab coat, 
wearing a broad brimmed white hat, and carrying his long 
" Pilgerstab " (staff) in his hand. He was at one time 
quite wealthy, but gave all his wealth to the poor, saying 
"The Lord would never suffer him to want." He would 
never receive any salary for his services as preacher, trust- 
ing entirely in the Lord for his support. On these visits 
he would often take his cousin to task for joining the Pres- 
byterian Church with his family and failing to keep the 
Sabbath (7th day), as had his ancestors before him. 



74 JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

The preacher on his journeys along the pike was often 
made the subject for the teamsters' jokes, who met him, 
but, as we would say at the present day, Andrew never got 
left. On one of these occasions, a teamster asked him if 
he believed in the devil. Andrew answered that " he read 
about him in his Bible." The wagoner then asked him if 
he ever saw the devil. The answer he got was, " I never 
want to see him plainer that I do just now." The ribald 
wagoner had no more questions to ask the German Sab- 
batarian. 

At the commencement of the fourth decade (1830) 
travel had increased to such an extent that greater facilities 
and shorter time was demanded by the traveling public. 
To meet this demand the proprietors of the stage line, S. 
R. Slaymaker & Co., from Philadelphia to Chambersburg, 
and Reside Slaymaker & Co., from Chambersburg to Pitts- 
burg, increased their stock and facilities to so great an 
extent that in 1831 they announced that they would hence- 
forth run two daily lines to Pittsburg, viz. : The U. S. Mail 
stage, the "Good Intent Line," would leave their office, 
284 Market street, Philadelphia, above 8th street, every 
morning at two o'clock a. m., for Pittsburg, via Lancaster, 
Harrisburg, Carlisle, Chambersburg, Bedford, Somerset 
and Mount Pleasant, going through in three days; only 
six passengers being admitted to each stage, as many stages 
were to be run as called for by the passengers, they aver- 
aging about six daily. 

The Mail Telegraph stage line left Philadelphia at 6.30 
a. m. by way of Greensburg from Bedford, making the trip 
in four days. This service was especially recommended to 
families or ladies, as the telegraph line avoided the fatigue 
of night travel. Firstrate horses, careful drivers and 
splendid new coaches were held out as the inducement to 



Burning of the Warren. 75 

the traveling public. In September, 1831, during the 
height of the traveling season the tavern was discovered 
to be on fire. It was first discovered over the kitchen, and 
is supposed to have been caused by a defective flue or 
chimney. The whole structure soon fell a victim to the 
destroying element. 

A curious anecdote in connection with the fire was long 
current. As soon as the alarm was given Charles called 
on several of the willing helpers to carry down the old 
German chest, which had belonged to his father, Casper. 
It was so heavy that it took five men to carry it. The inn- 
keeper had it carried across the road. He then sat on it 
and calmly watched the destruction of his valuable prop- 
erty. His action at the time caused much comment. No 
information was vouchsafed. After the fire was subdued 
and the danger to the outbuilding over, Charles had the 
chest carefully carried to the house just east of the bridge, 
never leaving the chest out of his sight until it was again 
in a place of safety. The explanation to this was — the 
old German oaken chest was his bank, weighted down by 
the roleaux of gold and silver coin, which were stored be- 
tween the folds of several old coverlids. 

The house was at once rebuilt on the solid walls, which 
were unharmed by the fire, and on its completion enjoyed 
an increased patronage. 

In the month of April, 1834, the Philadelphia and Co- 
lumbia Railway was open for travel. For a time the 
Green Tree had been the eastern terminus for the stages. 
So far the Warren had not felt the effects of the new im- 
provement. Within a month after the first train went 
down the road drawn by the "Black Hawk" matters 
changed. The stage coaches were withdrawn cast of Co- 
lumbia. It was the twentieth of May, a dark rainy day, 
when the last regular stage passed the Warren on its way 



76 JVays'ide Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

eastward. The Fahnestocks, similar to many other tavern 
keepers who were off the railway, had no faith in its ulti- 
mate success. The various local stages still ran, so did the 
Pitt teams, but neither were accustomed to stop at the 
Warren, nor could the old tavernkeeper bring himself 
down to cater to that class of custom. For a while a stage 
was run from the West Chester intersection to the Warren 
for the benefit of such travelers who wanted to stop at the 
Warren, but the arrangement was soon discontinued. 
Charles Fahnestock, now well-advanced in years and dis- 
gusted with the existing state of affairs, turned the inn over 
to his son William, who had become a strict Presbyterian 
and member of the Great Valley Church, much against the 
wishes and advice of his " Uncle Andrew," who was wont 
to tell him that all of his plans would "go aglee " unless 
he returned to the faith of his forefathers and kept the 
seventh day. William, however, turned a deaf ear to his 
relative, and became a prominent man in the church. Be- 
side being active in all church matters, he was for some 
years the "precentor" and led the singing. 

Wm. Fahnestock had presided over the inn not quite 
three years when his father was gathered to his people, 
and was buried with his father in the old family plot on 
the Valley hill, the Rev. Wm. Latta consigning the body 
to the grave. It is said that this was the last interment 
in the ground. 

William now had full sway, and as he was a strong 
temperance man he at once stopped the sale of liquor, and 
to the surprise of the frequenters of the pike a new sign 
board appeared in front of the "Warren," not high up 
in the yoke as of yore, but flat in front of the porch. It 
was an oval sign hung on pivots and fastened with a hook. 
During six days of the week it read: 



The First Temperance Hotel. 77 



WARREN 

TEMPERANCE 

HOTEL. 

At sundown on Saturday the sign was turned and until 
Monday it read : 

NOTHING 

SOLD ON THE 

SABBATH. 

The new departure did not meet with favor, and the 
patronage of the house rapidly decreased. The new host, 
in his temperance idea, eventually went so far as to cut 
down the large apple orchard which was in the field oppo- 
site the house, south of the pike. This was done so as to 
prevent the apples being used for cider. The year after 
the experiment of keeping a temperance hotel failed — 
summer boarders were tried with varying success. Wil- 
liam also made several attempts to locate the traditionary 
coal mine of the Indian, shafts were sunk at different 
points on the South Valley hill, but were eventually aban- 
doned. He also went extensively into the Morus Multi- 
caulis craze* which ended in failure. It seemed, as if not 
only the glory of the house had departed, but that the 
prophecy of the old Seventh-day Baptist preacher, " Uncle 
Andrew," was coming true.f So in the next year, 1838, 
Wm. Fahnestock divided the tract up and sold it to vari- 
ous parties, the tavern and adjacent fields being bought by 
a Mr. Thompson, who kept it one year and then sold it 
to Professor Stille, of Philadelphia, who in turn sold it in 
1846 to the present owners. 

*The silkworm craze, 
t Vide p. 77, supra. 
6 





If 



N part XXIII of the 
Narrative and Crit- 
ical History of the Ger- 
man Influence in the 
Settlement and Develop- 
ment OF Pennsylvania, 
published in Volume XXI of 
the Proceedings of the Penn- 
sylvania-German Society, an 
extended history was given 
of two of the famous inns on 
the Lancaster Turnpike, both 
of which were kept by Pennsylvania-Germans. 

These two papers on the Spread Eagle and Warren 
Taverns, as before stated, were a part of a series prepared 
by the present writer for the Village Record of West 
Chester during the eighties of last century, much of these 
facts and traditions being gathered by the writer in his boy- 
hood days, prior to the Civil War. 

Owing to the widespread interest aroused by the republi- 
cation of these sketches, and in compliance with the re- 
quests received from many sources, the Pennsylvania-Ger- 
man Society concluded to reprint the remaining papers 
of this series, thus giving the history of the old " Blue 

78 



n O 



5* R 

R 

i ^ 

•-3 w 

a, L. 



= r 

CD V 

3 _' 




Old Inns. 



19 



Ball" in Tredyffrin — originally the "Half-way" house 
between the Schuylkill and the Brandywine. Then the 
eleven taverns on the turnpike between the Spread Eagle 
Tavern, near the milestone and the Paoli Tavern, just 
above the Landmark, Thence follows the Story of the 
Paoli, the " Green Tree," a short mile west of the Paoli, 
and of the " Ship " in West Whiteland, near the milestone. 
To these is added a sketch of the Old "White Horse" 
Tavern in East Whiteland. The views illustrating these 
papers were taken by the writer prior to 1886. 

One of the results of the publication of the story of 
these old inns in our former volume is a renewed interest 
in these old landmarks, by the residents along the main 
line of the Pennsylvania, and a proposition that suitable 
tablets, appropriately inscribed, be put up along that ancient 
highway, marking places of historic interest, prominent 
among which are the sites of a number of these ancient 
hostelries, as well as other buildings connected with the 
early history of this section of Pennsylvania. 





THE BLUE BALL TAVERN, ON THE OLD 

LANCASTER ROAD, IN TREDYFFRIN 

TOWNSHIP, CHESTER COUNTY. 

jN Tredyffrin township, on the 
borders of Easttown, about a 
mile west of the village of Ber- 
wyn, just south of the railroad, 
where the turnpike crosses un- 
derneath the iron highway, for- 
merly stood in a slight ravine 
or valley formed by a spur of 
the valley hill, a primitive stone 
house, roughly built of the stone 
found on the surface of the 
ground during the first quarter 
of the eighteenth century. It 
was located on the south side of 
the provincial road, which was 
then the only means of reaching 
the outlying settlements towards Conestoga. Remains of 
this ancient building may yet be seen in the rear portion of 
Robert Glenn's house, the front, or main portion of the 
old Inn only having been demolished when it was replaced 
by the present house in 1863. In the earliest part of our 

80 




f? 




The Old Lancaster Road. 8i 

history this house was a prominent landmark and known 
as the " Half-way House," It being about equidistant from 
the Schuylkill (Coultas) ferry and Downing's Mill (now 
Downlngtown) ; It also occupied the same position on the 
road connecting the two Welsh congregations of the Church 
of England, viz.: St. David's (Radnor) and St. Peter's 
(Gt. Valley). 

From 1735 when the house came into the possession of 
Robert Richardson It became known as the " Blue Ball,'* 
under which name the original house as well as its suc- 
cessor, a few rods north on the turnpike, attained more or 
less celebrity a century later. In the primitive days of our 
province a roadside tavern was a necessity, not only as a 
house of entertainment but one of shelter as well. These 
roadside Inns were among the prominent and important 
landmarks on the early maps of the province, as may be 
seen by reference to Scull and Heaps's map published in 
1750, or any of the early distance tables in use a century 
and a half ago, on which our inn Is stated to be 19 miles, 3 
quarters, and 62 perches west of the Court House in Phila- 
delphia. The road on which the Blue Ball was located 
was the most important public road In the province of 
Pennsylvania. In Colonial days it was the main road 
from Philadelphia to Lancaster and was known as the 
"great" or "provincial" road; to the present generation 
it Is known as the old Lancaster Road in such places where 
Its bed Is not occupied by the turnpike or where It has not 
been vacated altogether. 

Tradition tells us that a portion of the road which is in 
Chester county was formerly an old Indian trail, and be- 
came one of the first roads in the primitive settlement. 

The road does not seem to have been opened through to 
Lancaster until after 1730, as in January of that year the 



82 JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

Magistrates, Grand Jury and other Inhabitants of the 
County of Lancaster, presented a petition to the Provin- 
cial Council, setting forth " that not having the Con- 
veniency of any Navigable water, for bringing the Pro- 
duce of their Labours to Philadelphia, they are obliged 
at a great Expense to transport them by Land Carriage, 
which Burthen becomes heavier thro' the Want of Suitable 
Roads for Carriages to pass. That there are no public 
Roads leading to Philadelphia yet laid out thro' their 
Count}^ and those in Chester County, thro' which they 
now pass, are in many places incommodious. And there- 
fore praying that Proper Persons may be appointed to 
view and lay out a Road for the Publick Service from the 
Town of Lancaster till it falls in with the high Road In 
the County of Chester, leading to the Ferry of Schuylkill 
of High Street, and that a Review may be had of the Said 
Publick Road in the County of Chester." The prayer of 
this petition being granted Thos. Green, George Ashton, 
William Paschal, Richard Buffington, William March, 
Samuel Miller and Robert Parke of the county of Chester, 
or any five of them, together with the same number from 
Lancaster county, were empowered jointly to review the 
said high Road and report to the board what alterations 
may be necessary to be made therein, to suit the Conve- 
niency of Carriages and for the better accommodation of 
the Inhabitants of the Province. 

The Commissioners made a report to the Council at 
Philadelphia Oct. 4, 1733, setting forth that they had laid 
out the road to the house of John Spruce, in Whiteland 
township, Chester county, a distance of thirty-two statute 
miles from the Courthouse in Lancaster. They concluded 
their report : 



Petition for Road. 83 

" And we further beg leave to say, that being unprovided with a 
copy of the Records of the aforesaid public road through Chester 
county, and the lands contiguous to the said road being mostly 
improved and at present under corn, we find ourselves incapable 
to discover where the same hath been altered from its true course 
(to the Damage thereof) and also conclude the present season of 
the year improper for a review." 

January 23, 1735-6, a petition was presented to 
the Council by sundry inhabitants of the townships of 
Tredyffrin, Easttown, Willistown and places adjacent to 
the County of Chester, setting forth that the road Is 
brought no further than to the house of John Spruce in 
Whiteland township, In the County of Chester, to the 
great Inconvenience of persons travelling with wagons and 
other heavy carriages and therefore praying that orders 
may be given for perfecting the said road. In pursuance to 
the order granted on the above petition. 

It was, however, not until November 23, 1741, that the 
survey of the road was completed. In this report it men- 
tions that the road was run by way of William Evans's 
smith shop then in Tredyffrin Town to the sign of the 
Ball, thence It entered East Town, &c. The road was con- 
firmed and ordered to be opened and cleared forthwith. 

The winter of this year (1741) was an exceptionally 
hard one, and was noted for the frequent and deep snows, 
interrupting all travel and communication between the 
settlers for weeks at a time. The severity of the winter 
was complained of everywhere throughout the province, 
in many places In Chester county cattle died from want of 
fodder; many deer were also found dead In the woods, 
while some came tamely to the plantations and fed on the 
hay with the other cattle. Toward Lancaster county the 



84 fVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

snow averaged over three feet in depth, consequently the 
settlers suffered much for want of bread, all access to the 
mills being barred by the deep drifts, in many cases fam- 
ilies of new settlers had little else to subsist on but the car- 
casses of deer they found dead and dying in the swamps 
or runs near their houses. 

In the early times before the " Great " road was opened, 
all travel was on horseback, all freight and merchandise 
was transported on pack horses, grain was carried to the 
mill or market in large sacks holding between two and 
three bushels, which were placed on pack saddles, and a 
boy mounted on one horse would lead three or four in a 
line behind the one he rode. By means of these pack 
horses the most unwieldy articles such as bars of iron, 
barrels of liquor, and other necessities were also trans- 
ported. Women generally rode behind their male com- 
panions on a pillion attached to the hinder part of the 
saddle, and secured firmly on the horse. High horse- 
blocks were a necessity and could be seen in front of most 
all houses. It was not long before road carts were built 
and by the middle of the century wagons came into use for 
transportation but on account of their clumsy and cum- 
berous construction did not entirely supersede the pack 
horse until many years later. 

Peter Kalm, the Swedish naturalist, who visited and 
traveled through the province in 1748, in writing about 
the customs and condition of the country says : " The roads 
are good or bad according to the difference of the ground. 
In a sandy soil the roads are dry and good, but in a clayey 
one they are bad. The people here are likewise very care- 
less in mending them. If a rivulet be not too great, they 
do not make a bridge over it, and travelers may do as well 
as they can to get over. When a tree falls across the 



French and Indian War. 85 

road it is seldom cut off to keep the road clear, but the 
people go round it." 

Richardson kept the Inn until 1741, when the property 
was bought by Thomas McKean, an uncle of Governor 
McKean; he without difficulty obtained a license and 
appears to have kept the house until 1752. In the follow- 
ing year he was succeeded by Conrad Young, of Philadel- 
phia. It seems that the new landlord was a German, and 
on his accession to the property changed the name to the 
" King of Prussia." He continued in possession until 
1757. The traveling public and residents do not seem to 
have approved of the change on the sign-board, so the Inn 
continued to be known as the " Ball." During the August 
term of 1758 we find the petition of Joseph Wilkinson, 
late of Uwchlan at the Red Lion, in which he represents 
"That your petitioner is removed to the place where the 
sign of the Blue Ball has long been kept (now the King of 
Prussia), on Lancaster road, where he proposes (under 
your favor) , to continue to keep a Public House of Enter- 
tainment." 

During 1759 Joseph Wilkinson was again licensed. It 
was during the term of Young and Wilkinson that the 
French and Indian excitement was rife in the Province. 
There is a tradition that a part of the forces under General 
Braddock, as well as the more fortunate Generals Forbes 
and Stanwix, were assembled and mustered at this place 
prior to their joining the main body on its march to the 
Ohio; in corroboration of this tradition it was customary 
to refer to the very high doors with arched heads in the 
old tavern stables (demolished and replaced by present 
barn in 1863), which were said to have been built so high 
that the King's troopers could ride in and out without 
dismounting. During 1758-9, when requisitions were 



86 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

issued in the county for horses and wagons for military 
purposes the appraiser for Easttown, Tredyffrin and the 
adjoining townships, it is said, had his headquarters at the 
" Ball," further that on account of the opposition of the 
Quaker element his office was anything but a sinecure. 

March 13, 1759, Dr. Bernhard Van Leer, of Marple, 
purchased the Blue Ball property from Conrad Young, 
who had again returned to Philadelphia. The two planta- 
tions connected with the tavern contained 209 acres. The 
following year, 1760, Dr. Van Leer leased the property 
to Benj. Weatherby, who in August of that year petitions 
for a license when " a public house of entertainment has 
been found necessary in Tredyffrin for over twenty years 
past on the road leading from Philadelphia to Lancaster." 
Among his recommenders we find Francis Wayne, Isaac 
Wayne, Thomas McKean, &c. Weatherby continued 
from year to year until 1766, the names of some of the 
leading vestrymen of both churches before mentioned being 
among his recommenders. It frequently depended upon 
who appeared as the recommenders of an applicant, 
whether the license was granted or refused. As early as 
1763 an application was made to the Governor for the 
regulation of taverns, in which it sets forth "That one 
only should be in such a defined distance, or in proportion 
to so many inhabitants, that the bar rooms should be closed 
upon the Sabbath day, as it would tend to prevent youth 
from committing excesses to their own ruin and injury of 
their masters and the affliction of their parents and 
friends." In 1767 Weatherby was succeeded by his 
widow, who asks renewal and continues until 177 1, in 
August of which year Philip Upright presents a petition 
setting forth that he "has rented the Tavern late in the 
tenure of the Widow Weatherby where an old and well 



A Pleasure Trip. 87 

accustomed house of public entertainment has been kept 
for a number of years known by the name of the " Blue 
Ball." Among the signers were Isaac Wayne, Anthony 
Wayne, John Gronow, Griffith Jones and others. 

By the following Interesting account of a " trip for 
pleasure" over the old road during the summer of 1773, 
taken from the diary (lately found) of a person whose 
name Is unfortunately lost to us, the Initial XI .... only 
being given, ^ one may well contrast the present luxurious 
mode of travel between the two cities, with the long, weary 
and uncomfortable journey which awaited the seeker for 
pleasure a hundred and thirty-nine years ago. 

" Left Lancaster about three o'clock in the afternoon on 
Wednesday, the 25th, a fine, pleasant day, in good spirits, but alas, 
a sad accident had like to have turned our mirth to mourning, for 
W. driving careless and being happily engaged with the lady he 
had the pleasure of riding with, and not mindful enough of his 
charge, drove full against a large stump which stood in the way, 
by which the chair was overturned, and the lady thrown out to a 
considerable distance, but happily received no hurt. This evening 
about 8 o'clock arrived at Douglass', (between Millers and The 
Hat,) where supped and rested all night. The supper was pretty 
tolerable, beds indifferent; being short of sheets for the beds the 
woman was good enough to let W. have a tablecloth in lieu of one. 

"Thursday 26th, 1773, at 7 o'clock left Douglass; about ten 
arrived at the Ship (west of Downingtown) where we breakfasted, 
which was good, the people obliging, the house clean and decent; 
at 1 1 o'clock set out ; at one we stopped at the Adm. Warren thence 
proceeded to Stradleburgs( ?) during which time it rained vere 
heavy upon us, which was the more disagreeable, as the ladies were 
much exposed thereto, neither of the chairs having tops ; soon after 
our arrival about four left Stradleburgs, and were all the way 
down in a heavy rain; but happily the ladies' good constitutions, 

1 Penna. Mag., July, i'886. 



88 JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

prevented bad effects following their being so much wet; about 
eight o'clock we arrived at the city." 

Philip Upright continued as landlord of the Blue Ball 
probably until the invasion by the British, September, 
1777, when he was despoiled of his possessions along with 
the other unfortunate residents of Tredyffrin who chanced 
to come within reach of the hireling foe. There are no 
official records during the three following years as to who 
was the host at the inn. 

In July, 1777, the first attempt was made to run a 
" Stage Wagon " between Philadelphia and Lancaster, but 
as it took two days to travel the distance of sixty miles, 
the experiment was soon abandoned. The condition of 
the great road at this time was so bad as to be almost im- 
passable, wagons could not carry more than half or two 
thirds of a load on that account. The causes of this state 
of affairs were two-fold; first, the great amount of travel 
caused by the demand for supplies for the subsistence of 
the armies; second, the impossibility of getting the inhabi- 
tants to make the necessary repairs. In some of the worst 
places details of the militia were sent to make the needed 
repairs, under the direction of the Deputy-Quarter-Master- 
General of the Army, still this gave but partial relief. 
Numerous complaints were made to the Supreme Execu- 
tive Council of the State early in the year, while Wash- 
ington and the army were yet quartered at Valley Forge. 
In May, 1778, the Council took action upon the com- 
plaints and at once issued the following order to all Super- 
visors in both Lancaster and Chester counties: 

"Lancaster. May 7th, 1778. 

" Whereas, complaints are made to Council that the Roads and 
Highways in this State are ruinous, and in many parts almost 



Legal Rate for Drinks. 89 

impassable, for want of being repaired and amended, as the Law 
requires, whereby Travellers are impeded in their Journies, private 
Business obstructed, and the publick supplies for the Army delayed, 
and their Operations in Danger of being disappointed, to the great 
Scandal, Detriment and Danger of this Commonwealth and the 
manifest injury of the common cause of America: 

These are therefore to require and command all Supervisors of 
the Roads and Highways within this State, without Fail or Loss 
of Time, to proceed to the Reparation and Amendment of the 
Roads, and to enjoin upon all Magistrates and others concerned, 
to exert themselves in making presentments of Defects and Nui- 
sances in the premises or to the Quarter Sessions of the peace of 
the respective counties, or to prosecute and otherwise proceed 
against all deficient Township and Supervisors according to Law, 
that they may be punished in such manner as their neglect shall 
require." 

By Order of Council. 

By this Increased travel on the provincial road the road- 
side Inns reaped a considerable harvest both before and 
after the British occupation of Philadelphia and this vicin- 
ity. As an illustration of some of the curious customs of 
those times, the following tavern rate is given, as published 
in the Philadelphia Evening Post, Sept. 11, 1778. These 
prices no doubt were In Pennsylvania currency and were 
fixed by the County Courts as a matter of protection to 
the traveller. 

" Prices as fixed by the Court of Quarter Sessions for Phila- 
delphia county, September 7th, 1778, to be paid in Public Houses 
within said county:" 

Madeira wine per quart £2 o o 

Lisbon wine per quart I 5 o 

Tenriffe wine per quart i 5 o 



90 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

Spirit per gill 3 9 

Brandy per gill 3 9 

Whiskey per gill i 3 

Good Beer per quart i 6 

Cider Royal per quart 2 6 

Cyder i 3 

Punch per bowl of about three pints. ... I2 6 

Toddy per bowl of about three pints. ... 7 6 

Breakfast of Tea or Coffee 3 9 

Dinner 5 O 

Supper 3 9 

Lodging I 3 

Good hay for horse per night 3 9 

Oats per quart 7 

Any householder exceeding the above to be fined 20s 
for first offence; 40s for second offence and for third 
offence £5 and loss of license. The rates of the County of 
Philadelphia generally regulated the adjoining counties. 

Attempts at highway robbery at this period of the Revo- 
lutionary struggle were of frequent occurrence ; reports of 
any notice of highwaymen being in the vicinity would have 
the effect of preventing travelers from starting alone on 
their journey or after dark. This was especially the case 
during the time In which the noted Captain FItz and his 
satellite Dougherty were wont to place travelers on the 
provincial road under tribute, as frequently happened 
between the Blue Ball and Cain. The boldness of this 
marauder caused the Executive Council July 13, 1778, to 
offer a reward of one thousand dollars for his apprehen- 
sion. This resulted In the capture of FItz, August 22, at 
Castle Rock, about six miles from the Inn. 

By reference to some memoranda found In the " Re- 
membrances of Christopher Marshall" It Is to be Inferred 



Christopher Marshall. 91 

that during the four years following Upright the Blue 
Ball was kept by Captain Thomas Reese, who in 1777 
lived on an adjoining plantation in Tredyffrin, his claim 
for losses sustained by the British being still in existence. 
Reese is mentioned by Marshall in January and Septem- 
ber, 1778, and again in July, 1780. 

Under date of Sept. 12, 1778, we find: " Reached Capt. 
Reese's tavern at the Blue Ball by dusk. Here we took up 
our residence for the night. We drank coffee for supper 
and slept in our great coats, stockings, &c., for fear of 
' fleas and bugs.' " 

Sept. 13. "We rose early, fed our horses, I paid the 
reckoning, thirty-eight shillings and ten pence; set off for 
Lancaster, &c." 

The winter of 1778-9 was an exceedingly mild and 
pleasant one. It was so mild that in our vicinity on the 
2 2d day of March, the orchards of different kinds were 
all In blossom, and the meadows as green as in the month 
of June; however on the next morning a storm came from 
the northeast and before noon there was nearly two feet 
of snow on the ground; this " cold snap " destroyed all the 
fruit for that year. 

In 1782 John Phillips was the tavernkeeper and con- 
tinued until 1787. After the successful close of the Revo- 
lutionary struggle, travel continued to increase to so great 
an extent, as to make transportation extremely expensive 
and difficult on the road. 

In 1790 over 150,000 bushels of wheat passed over the 
road from Middletown for the Philadelphia market. 
This was exclusive of the large amount of grain raised in 
Chester and Lancaster counties which was also brought 
down the same avenue. At this time the cost of trans- 
porting a bushel of wheat from the Susquehanna to the 



92 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

Schuylkill was £2 6d; It was further calculated that from 
one third to one half of the weight of the wheat was 
carried back In salt, liquors and other merchandise at 5s 
per hundred weight. In connection with this matter of 
Increased transportation, the grain consumed as horse feed 
became an object of great attention. It was calculated 
that these 150,000 bushels of grain at forty-five bushels 
to a wagon load, were equal to almost three thousand and 
fifty loads; and as each team was not less than ten days 
on the road. It consumed ten bushels of rye, which is equal 
to over thirty-five thousand bushels of that grain. 

As has been abov^e mentioned the difficulties and ex- 
pense of this transportation increased with the increase of 
the travel. The wear and tear on the teams and wagons 
was enormous. The terrible condition of the road espe- 
cially during a wet season can now hardly be described; 
the ruts in the miry road often hub deep. It was nothing 
for teams to be stalled in the mud for half a day. During 
winter and spring it was even worse and it was not an 
unusual occurrence for wagons to freeze fast in the ruts, 
and there remain until they could be gotten out when the 
frost came out of the ground in the spring. Teamsters 
beside their freight were required to carry several days' 
forage for their horses (this was usually rye), also a drag 
chain about ten to twelve feet long, axe, shovel, clouts, a 
gallon keg of tar and oil, usually swinging under the back 
axle, extra horseshoes, nails, hames, strings and lynch pins, 
and a mattress for themselves completed the equipment. 
In addition some of the more frugal carried their own 
provisions. 

In 1784 and again in 1788 efforts were made to estab- 
lish a line of stage coaches between Philadelphia and Lan- 
caster, but the enterprise proved futile on account of the 



Dr. Bernhardus Van Leer. 93 

wretched condition of the highway, the great amount of 
travel, combined with the uncertainty of arriving at the 
end of the journey in any reasonable time. 

The activity along the road caused a number of houses 
to be erected along the roadside between the Blue Ball 
and the Spread Eagle, two miles below. Of these houses 
not a trace or vestige remains to denote their former loca- 
tion or existence, with possibly a single exception of an 
old house standing just below Berwyn station, where the 
road connecting the turnpike and State road crosses the 
old road. This house prior to the building of the turn- 
pike in 1792-5 was used as a public house and known as 
the "Fox" Tavern It later did duty as a country store. 

Dr. Van Leer the owner of the Blue Ball property died 
early in 1786 and by will devised the Blue Ball Tavern, in 
Tredyffrin, with two tracts of land, 100 acres and 80 acres, 
to his daughter Mary, wife of Moses Moore who kept the 
Tavern from 1788 to 1792. Governor Mifflin's message 
of the latter year contains the following curious allusion to 
tavern licenses and their collection. 

" I again bring to your notice the impediments in the collection 
of the duty on tavern licenses; and to point out the expediency of 
placing on a better footing the mode of compelling the officers, who 
are intrusted with public monies, to account as it may at present 
happen, that the process can only be issued by those who are them- 
selves, the delinquents." 

A gentleman stopping at this Inn during the winter of 
1793 and writing about the winter pastimes in the country 
says: "The chief amusement of the country girls now is 
sleighing, of which they are passionately fond, as the snow 
is not expected to lay on the ground very long. The con- 
sequence is, that every moment that will admit of sleighing 
7 



94 JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

is seized with avidity. The tavern and inn keepers are 
up all night, and the whole country^ is in motion. When 
the snow begins to fall, our planter's daughters provide 
hot sand, which at nights they place in bags at the bottom 
of the sleigh. Their sweethearts attend with a couple of 
horses and away they glide with astonishing velocity; 
visiting their friends for many miles around the country. 
But in order to have a sleighing frolic in style, it is neces- 
sary to provide a fiddler, who is placed at the head of 
the sleigh, and plays all the way. At every Inn they meet 
with on the road, the company alight and have a dance." 

The three following years, 1793-6, John Llewellyn was 
the tenant. In the meantime the new turnpike had been 
built, and at once became the great highway of travel. At 
this point the turnpike was located about five hundred feet 
north of the former road and a considerable stretch of the 
old road was vacated. This cut off the old hostelry almost 
completely from its patrons. The erection of more mod- 
ern and comfortable public houses, situated directly on the 
new turnpike also made serious inroads on the business of 
the old Blue Ball. Notwithstanding these drawbacks John 
Werkizer obtained license for the years 1797-8-9. 

It was not long before this deflection of the travel 
and patronage induced the owner of the property to erect 
a new tavern under the same name directly on the turnpike. 




OLD INNS ON THE LANCASTER 
ROAD SIDE. 



THE ELEVEN HOTELS WHICH FORMERLY STOOD ON THE 

LANCASTER TURNPIKE BETWEEN THE EAGLE 

TAVERN AND THE PAOLI INN. 




^^♦jr^ERE Is to the Sorrel 
"*^ Horse that kicked 
Unicorn that made the Eagle 
fly; that scared the Lamb from 
under the Stage, for drinking 
the Spring-house dry; that 
drove the Blue Ball into the 
Black Bear, and chased Gen- 
eral Jackson all the way to 
Paoli." This unique toast, a 
favorite one with the hardy teamsters, who teamed along 
the turnpike prior to the railroad era, enumerates all the 
taverns in the east end of Chester county, in the order 
in which they came. The first three were in Radnor 
township, Delaware county, the others in Easttown and 
Tredyffrin townships, Chester county. The "toast" will 
no doubt be recalled to the memory of many an old 
"stager" who followed the road in those by-gone days; 

95 



g6 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

perhaps some may also recall the eccentric character who 
was credited with organizing it, viz, : " Old Joe Pike." 

The necessity of the Public House for the entertain- 
ment of Man and Beast, as well as the important position 
which it occupied in the community in these early days, 
may be judged from the fact that the eleven inns enumer- 
ated in the above "toast" were all within a distance of 
five miles. The first tavern beyond the Spread Eagle was 
the "Lamb"; this house was in Easttown township, about 
300 yards east of the fifteenth milestone. It was built at 
the commencement of the last century by the owner of the 
property, George Reese, who was afterwards High Sheriff 
of Philadelphia. The west or main end of this house was 
the original "Valley Baptist" Church, the precursor of the 
present remodeled edifice. When the old log church was 
sold it was bought by Reese, taken down and re-erected as 
stated above, and stood there until about 1878 or '79 when 
the house was altered to its present condition. Shortly 
after the completion of the turnpike the building was used 
for several years as a country store by one Jonathan Jones, 
until 18 12 or '13 when John Lewis of the "Stage" re- 
ceived a license to keep a public house at that location. 
He continued there for two years, when he was followed 
by Jacob dinger, who erected the stone part of the house 
and kept the inn for many years, being succeeded to the 
business by his son Henry until after the advent of the 
railroad, when the house ceased to be profitable. This 
house always enjoyed a good reputation as a wagon stand 
and took considerable of the surplus travel, which could 
not be accommodated at the Eagle. The sign-board of 
the house swung from a high pole representing a rural 
landscape with a fine lamb in the foreground. 

The next house, "The Stage," just west of the fifteenth 



Town of Glass ley. 97 

milestone, was located on the crest of the South Valley 
hill, and it was claimed to be the highest point west of 
Philadelphia. It it not known by whom this house was 
built, but it was owned by Dr. Harvard Davis, while John 
Lewis of the Lamb kept the house as an inn in 18 10. He 
remained for two years, when he was succeeded by Edward 
Robinson, he in turn by Col. Alex. E. Finley, during 
whose term a number of militia musters were held on the 
Glassley Commons, between the Stage and the Lamb. As 
prominent actors in these gatherings Ensign Hampton, 
Captains Weatherby and Rowan will no doubt be remem- 
bered by some of the older residents. While Finley was 
the landlord of the Stage, Sammy Stirk was the wheel- 
wright at the shops at the fifteenth milestone; he was also 
Constable. Among the hangers on about the tavern there 
was a poetic genius, name now forgotten, who had re- 
ceived an official visit from Stirk, when under the impulse 
of the moment he dashed off the following at the Con- 
stable's expense: 

As Pluto was taking an airing one day, 
My noble Carlisle fell plump in his way; 

On the plains of famed Glassley these friends they 
did meet, 
And they very politely each other did greet, 

Good morning, said Pluto, with a sarcastic smile, 
I am happy to meet you, my noble Carlisle; 

For you and your master must instantly go. 

Through the mouth of old iEtna to the regions 
of woe. 

The name of the last landlord was " Shoeneman " usu- 
ally a synonym for the Stage in the latter years — during 
which time it dropped lower and lower in the scale; rough 



98 IFayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

and tumble fights and brawls being of nightly occurrence. 
The sign-board that swung from a tall pole and depicting 
a stage-coach drawn by four prancing horses, as well as 
the sign of the Lamb, were the work of a local artist, a self- 
taught genius, one James McGuigan, who lived on the 
Glassley Commons; when he died Col. Isaac Wayne wrote 
his obituary heading it with a verse of " Grey's Elegy." 

The next hostelry was the "Spring-house" Tavern. 
This inn was the successor of the "Fox" Tavern on the 
old road mentioned in a previous article. John Llewellyn 
the owner of the property was also the landlord of the 
Blue Ball from 1793 to 1796, and it is known that his 
brother David kept the " Fox" until 1804, when the prop- 
erty was sold to William Torbet. It is thought Torbert 
or his son Alexander was the builder of the house on the 
turnpike, but it does not seem to have come into promi- 
nence until after 18 14, when the house and property came 
into the possession of the Kugler family in which it re- 
mained until 1 86 1, when it was conveyed to John McLeod. 
Remains of this old hostelry may still be seen in what is 
now known as " McCloud's " house in Benvyn, between 
the turnpike and railroad, a little east of the lumber yard 
below the Station. The old Spring-house for a time en- 
joyed considerable patronage while under the direction of 
the Kuglers. For a time, about 1825-30, the name was 
changed to the " Gen. Washington," this was after the 
house had been leased to John Dane; however, the resi- 
dents of the vicinity as well as the patrons and habitues 
refused to recognize the change on the sign-board, so the 
house continued to be known as the "Spring-house," but 
in later years after the decline of the turnpike, the house 
was usually called "Peggy Dane's" after the widow and 



Reesville Boarding School. 99 

successor of the last lessee ; the house at one time was partly 
destroyed by fire. 

After leaving the "Spring-house" the wagoners toiling 
up the pike would next pass the " Drove " usually kept by 
some member of the " Reese " family. This inn was almost 
opposite the sixteenth milestone, and as its name implies 
was mainly intended as a "drove stand." The proprietor 
catered principally to that class of patrons. One of the 
traditions connected with this cabaret was that the 
" Drove " on the turnpike and the former inn by the same 
name, which stood on the old road (in Cuckolds-town) a 
little north of the subject of this sketch, were connected 
by an underground passage. This house, next to the 
"Ball," probably enjoyed the least enviable reputation in 
the township. The various accounts of the large amounts 
of money lost at hazard, the frequent brawls and fights, 
which finally culminated in the killing of Nathan Reed by 
one J. v., soon affected the custom of the tavern. This 
house after the building of the railroad, which at this point 
necessitated a cut of over twenty feet deep, was turned 
into an institution of learning, which under the supervision 
of Professor Noble Heath, attained considerable celebrity. 
It was known as the " Reeseville Boarding School." It 
flourished with variable success until 1850, when the school 
was discontinued. The old inn was finally torn down in 
1869 and replaced by the present handsome residence 
built by the late owner, H. Fritz. 

The next inn was the " Ball," the successor of the cele- 
brated colonial tavern of the same name, which was located 
for so many years on the old provincial road and the bridle 
path which preceded it through the wilderness. The 
"Ball" on the turnpike was built probably in the first 
years of the last century, and will now be easily recognized 



100 JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

as "Old Prissey's" so called after the last owner, who 
was also the daughter of the builder of the house. This 
house is about three fourths of a mile west of Berwyn, and 
when built had but two stories, the upper story with the 
semi-circular windows being a later addition after the house 
had been partially destroyed by fire. There are many grue- 
some and ghostly tales told in connection with this house, 
probably more than about all other inns on the turnpike 
put together. The late owner who died over twenty-five 
years ago, after a stormy existence of almost or more than 
a century, is usually the chief actor in these legends. The 
house itself in a dilapidated condition as it now appears 
(1886) still has an uncanny look about it. The half-round 
arched windows have been likened to wicked half-shut 
eyes.^ Still no matter how eccentric Old Prissey was the 
fear with which her appearance would inspire school chil- 
dren, or how she scolded when angry, the writer still would 
fain draw the veil of charity over the old soul and not 
believe many of the deeds attributed to Old Prissey. 

One characteristic tale about Mrs. Priscilla however is 
too good to be passed. When the railroad was built it was 
located very near her house. While horses were the 
motive power all was well and good; this lasted from 
1834 to 1836 — but when in the latter year the problem 
to employ steam as the motive power on the road was suc- 
cessfully solved, the trouble commenced. Prissey saw her 
business dwindle and decrease while her competitors at the 
Paoli but a short distance beyond prospered. She soon 
got very crabbed about this loss of patronage; of this fact 
the railroaders soon became aware. As sure as a train 
would come along, so sure was Prissey out scolding the 

^ The house of late has been modernized and is now used as a suburban 
residence. 



Old Prissey Robinson. 



lOI 



crew. They In turn would return her compliments with 
shrill whistles. The war of shrieks came to a climax when 
her pet heifer one day 
strayed on the railroad in 
front of an approaching 
engine. The result of this 
act was disastrous for the 
bovine. The rage and 
anger of Prissey knew no 
bounds. As her claim for 
damages was not at once 
settled to her satisfaction, 
she got her revenge as fol- 
lows : the tallow was all ren- 
dered out, and after dark a 
good proportion of the 
killed cow was put on the 
rails. No train passed the 
house that night, but it is 
said an engine with its train 
kept at it until the water 
gave out. (Locomotives of 
that early day were of little 
power and carried no sand.) 
The next day this brought 
down the State Collector 
from Paoli, and another 
war of words ensued, but Prissey with her arms akimbo 
defied them all and told them they either had to pay her 
or take the cow as she chose to give it to them — on the 
rail whenever she pleased. Before the sun set that day 
Prissey had her " shinplasters " (State bank notes) safe 
In her possession. 




Old " Prissey " 
As the writer knew her. 



102 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

Priscilla Moore is said to have been married several 
times — Edw. Robinson, John Cahill, John Fisher, but she 
was usually known as Mrs. Robinson, and the old Inn as 
" Mrs. Robinson's." 

The next wagon tavern was the Black Bear with its 
swinging sign-board. It stood at the crossing of the road 
from Howellville, on the corner opposite Schofield's store. 
Little is remembered of this house except that it was a 
tavern on the old provincial road before the turnpike was 
built, and that in later years it became a great stand for 
sales and vendues. It continued a licensed house until 
1857, Hugh Steen being the last landlord. George 
Steibler, Jos. Morgan and Elisha Worrall were at differ- 
ent times in charge. The house was torn down about 
a half century ago; the sign on the inn was the usual 
swinging sign with the name painted in large gilt block 
letters on a black ground. The old pump still standing 
by the wayside is all that remains to mark the spot of a 
former busy gathering place on the turnpike. Before 
leaving the " Bear" the writer would call special attention 
to the fact that at several points between the Blue Ball 
and the Warren, three miles above, the steel rails lie 
exactly in the old and forgotten Indian trails, those narrow 
paths unmarked by blaze on tree or pile of stones, which 
over two centuries ago led through the unbroken forest, in 
the sombre shades of which the aborigine would disappear 
on his hunting or depredatory excursions. This trail after 
the advent of the Caucasian, successively became the cart 
road — great road 1741 — turnpike 1792 — State road 
1832, and finally part of the Pennsylvania Railroad sys- 
tem in 1852. 

[^Note. — Since the above chapter has been put in type, 
the following interesting, additional matter relating to 



The Black Bear. 103 

the Old Black Bear, just below the eighteenth milestone, 
was received from Prof. George Morris Philips, Principal 
of the State Normal School at West Chester, whose great- 
grandfather, John Philips, kept the old Black Bear tavern 
just below Paoli, and died there in 1790. He is down in 
the Pennsylvania Archives as a first lieutenant in the Revo- 
lutionary Army. An old descendant of his, HIbberd Chal- 
fant, of Atglen, Chester County, recently stated that he 
remembers very distinctly when a boy six years old his 
grandmother telling him again and again that John Philips 
served as a Captain through the Revolutionary War, that 
he was in a prison ship, almost died from illness, and that 
his wife was allowed to go to the ship and nurse him, and 
doubtless saved his life. As he heard, she was also very 
helpful to the other sick soldiers there. Upon his recovery 
he was sent home to recruit, probably exchanged and, 
greatly against her wishes, insisted upon reentering the 
army, and served through the war. Chalfant's recollec- 
tion is that this ship on which he was confined was on Lake 
Champlain. Our earlier Information however, always was 
that he was in the prison ship Jersey, In New York harbor 
and that according to British records he died there, but 
the records In the Brooklyn Historical Society show that he 
survived, as he certainly did. He died intestate and his 
widow administered his estate, and her account Is filed in 
the Chester County Court House and Is very Interesting. 
Professor Philips has possession of a fine old eight-day 
clock which formerly belonged to Capt. John Philips and 
was made by J. Garrett, of Goshen. It was bought at a 
sale of his effects by Prof. Philip's grandfather for his 
own son, John M. Philips, and now really belongs to his 
grandson, William P. Philips, of New York City.] 
With the " Bear" end thewagonstands In Easttownand 



I04 JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

Tredyffrin east of Paoli; the next house west was the 
" General Jackson Inn," a first-class stage tavern, built by 
Randall Evans, who also owned the Black Bear; he was a 
brother of Gen. Joshua Evans of the Paoli; after Ran- 
dall's failure he was succeeded by Evanson, who rechris- 
tened the house "The Franklin," under which name it 
has been known to the present generation; it was also in 
later years known as the " Evanson House," and used for 
summer boarders until the repurchase in i88- by John D. 
Evans the owner of the Paoli. 

This house was noted from 1821-29 as the meeting 
place of Farmers' Lodge, No. 183, A. Y. M. 

A curious tale is told in connection with one of these old 
wagon stands which was up for sale. A wanderer coming 
down the turnpike, barefooted and sunburned, having all 
the appearances of a roustabout, his shoes and coat hang- 
ing from the staff carried across his shoulder, when in 
front of the inn stopped, and after reading the sale bill 
went into the barroom and asked the landlord, in a broad 
Pennsylvania dialect, "to let him emol the haus see.''- 
The Innkeeper judging from the appearance of the man, 
that he merely wanted to see the house for the purpose of 
planning a possible nocturnal visit in the future, told him 
curtly to clear out and go about his business. The tramp, 
after some grumbling to himself, went on his way down 
the pike. A week or more elapsed. In the mean time the 
property had been sold at the Exchange, in Philadelphia, 
when our country Dutchman again arrived in front of the 
inn, but this time coming from the opposite direction. 
Again stopping in front of the house, and after carefully 
scanning the outside of the house and outbuildings he went 
into the bar, and on being asked by the host what he 

1 See the house. 



fFagon and Drove Stands. 105 

wanted, answered, after some deliberation. Er docht 
er wol des haiise nan emol angucke.^ On being asked 
jeeringly, whether there was anything else that he wanted, 
he replied in broken English that the landlord had better 
get out himself as he was now the owner of the house, at 
the same time producing to the consternation of the now 
surprised landlord, the title papers for the property. It 
is needless to say that the manner of the tenant at once 
changed towards the new owner. 

But three of the houses mentioned in the wagoner's toast, 
viz. : The Eagle, Jackson and Paoli, ranked as stage 
taverns of reputation with the travelling public, the others 
were what were known as Wagon Taverns or Drove 
stands. These taverns were an entirely different institu- 
tion, from the well kept stage taverns previously described; 
each one had its particular class of patrons, and the land- 
lord made it a specialty to cater to their particular needs 
and requirements; no benefit would accrue at the present 
day to repeat any of the gruesome tales of crime and 
tragedies said to have been committed within the precincts' 
of some of the less respectable of these roadside inns; yet 
among some of the older residents of Easttown there are 
still dim memories of tales current in their younger days, 
of the disappearance of a peddler or two at one of these 
houses or at another where it was said that the chances of 
any drover who stopped at the inn, arriving at the end of 
his journey with a full purse were very slim; the writer, 
however, after diligent search of the Court records has 
not been able to find a single case of that kind coming to 
the official knowledge of the Court. Still there is no doubt 
that at some of these cabarets it would have been very 
unwise for a lone traveller, known to have a large sum of 

2 He thought that he would look the house over. 



io6 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

money in his possession, to stop and remain over night, 
especially if he were addicted to the social glass and not 
particular about his company. 

The wagoner's Inn as its name implies was patronized 
mainly by that hardy class of men, who made a business of 
transporting flour, grain and the products of the West to 
Philadelphia, while on the return trip they would carry 
merchandise and other freight for the merchants of the 
inland country. Many of these wagoners were farmers 
and tilled the soil during the Spring, Summer and early 
Fall, when after the crops were all in, they took their 
teams and went on the road as wagoners until the next 
Spring's work commenced. It is a matter of record that 
many of our farmers or their sons by this means cleared 
the incumbrances off of their homesteads. 

When the teamster came to the tavern where he intended 
stopping for the night his first care was to go into the bar- 
room and see w^hether there was still a desirable corner 
vacant on the floor for his mattress or bed; if so the mat- 
tress was put on the floor and woe to any one who at- 
tempted to displace it. After refreshing himself with a 
"jigger" of rum invariably measured out to him by the 
attendant back of the bar, which was in direct contrast to 
the traveller who stopped at the stage tavern who was 
always privileged to either pour out his own liquor or 
specify the quantity he wanted in his grog, the teamster 
would then give his attention to his team. The wagon 
would, if possible, be run into the yard and the horses 
placed on each side of the tongue, on which a trough with 
their feed was placed. This was done to sav^e the expense 
of stabling. After the team was thus provided for, the 
men would get their supper, after which they would con- 
gregate in the barroom or on the porches and the evening 



Emigrant Teams. 107 

passed in drinking and card playing. Fights and brawls 
among them were of frequent occurrence; this was espe- 
cially the case in the lower class of these wagon taverns, 
where the turmoil would often run riot during an election 
or other times of public excitement. 

A traveler who passed a night at one of these Inns dur- 
ing the election period in 18 18 says the tavern was filled 
by drunken men, who made a frightful uproar and yielded 
to excesses so horrible as to be scarcely conceivable. The 
rooms, the stairs, the yard, all were filled with drunken 
men and those who were still able to get their teeth sepa- 
rated uttered only the accents of fury and rage. 

Scenes similar to the above were no doubt of frequent 
occurrence and were not to be wondered at when it is 
taken into consideration that there were frequently over 
thirty teams gathered around a single inn, the conductors 
of which as a class were inured to exposure and excesses; 
together with the usual employees and habitues of the par- 
ticular inn and the large quantity of strong liquor it was 
then the custom to drink. 

Besides the wagoner, these inns afforded shelter and 
accommodation for the drover with his herds of stock on 
their way eastward. Emigrants on their way to the far 
West, as it was then called, the present generation know 
it as Ohio, would also stop at these inns for economy sake. 
It was then the custom for a family seeking a new home 
west of the Alleghenies, to start out in a wagon; this con- 
tained, besides the family, their few household goods and 
such farm implements as could be conveniently carried. 
These teams rarely consisted of more than two horses. In 
warm, fair weather the emigrants would sleep in their 
wagon, by the roadside; the stop was usually made near 
a spring or creek, where a fire would be built and the 



io8 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

scanty meal prepared by the wife, while the husband 
foraged around with his grass knife procuring fodder for 
his horses. Roustabouts, "tramps" we now call them, 
would also frequent the bar and Inn yard whenever the 
opportunity presented Itself. These with the hired men 
from the neighboring farms made up the patronage of 
this class of public houses. 

The landlords of these taverns were a peculiar race, 
brought forth by the times, and many of them exercised 
great power in political and county affairs, noteworthy 
examples of whom were General Joshua Evans, of the 
Paoli, and Col. A. E. FInley, of the Stage. 

The earliest information in reference to the establish- 
ment of and customs at these inns, known to the writer, 
are several letters written early in March, 1795, shortly 
after the completion of the turnpike. This writer says : 
" I sat out from Philadelphia on horseback, and arrived 
at Lancaster at the end of the second day's journey. The 
road between Philadelphia and Lancaster has lately under- 
gone a thorough repair, and tolls are levied upon it to 
keep It in order, under the direction of a company. This 
is the first attempt to have a turnpike road in Pennsylvania, 
and it is by no means relished by the people at large par- 
ticularly by the wagoners, who go In great numbers by 
this route to Philadelphia from the back parts of the State. 
On the whole road from Philadelphia to Lancaster, there 
are not any two dwellings standing together, excepting at 
a small place called Downlng'sTown, which lies about mid- 
way. The taverns along this turnpike road are kept by 
farmers, and they are all very indifferent. If the traveller 
can procure a few eggs with a little bacon, he ought to 
rest satisfied; it is twenty to one that a bit of fresh meat 
is to be had, or any salted meat except pork. Vegetables 



Travellers' Accommodations. 109 

seem also to be very scarce, and when you do get any, they 
generally consist of turnips, or turnip tops boiled by way 
of greens. 

"The bread is heavy and sour, though they have as 
fine flour as any in the world; this is owing to their method 
of making of it; they raise it with what they call 'sots'; 
hops and water boiled together. 

"The traveller on his arrival is shown into a room which 
is common to every person in the house, and which is gen- 
erally the one set apart for breakfast, dinner and supper. 
All the strangers that happen to be in the house sit down 
to these meals promiscuously, and the family of the house 
also forms a part of the company. It is seldom that a 
single bed room can be procured, but it is not always that 
even this is to be had, and those who travel through the 
country must often submit to be crammed into rooms 
where there is scarcely sufficient space to walk between the 
beds. No dependence is to be placed upon getting a man 
at these taverns to rub down your horse, or even to give 
him his food, frequently therefore you will have to do 
every thing of the kind for yourself if you do not travel 
with a servant, and indeed even where men are kept for 
the purpose of attending to travelers, which at some of 
the taverns is the case, they are so sullen and disobliging 
that you feel inclined to do everything with your own 
hands rather than be indebted to them for their assistance ; 
they always appear doubtful whether they should do any- 
thing for you or not, nor will money make them alter their 
conduct. 

" It is scarcely possible to go one mile on this road 

without meeting numbers of wagons passing and repassing 

between the back parts of the State and Philadelphia. 

These wagons are commonly drawn by four or five horses, 

8 



no Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

four of which are yoked in pairs. The wagons are heavy, 
the horses small and the driver unmerciful; the conse- 
quence of which is, that in every team, nearly, there is a 
horse either lame or blind. The Pennsylvanians are 
notorious for the bad care which they take of their horses. 
Except the night be tempestuous, the wagoners never put 
their horses under shelter, and then it is only under a shed. 
Each tavern is usually provided for this purpose. Food 
for the horses is always carried in the wagon and the 
moment they stop they are unyoked and fed whilst they 
are warm. By this treatment half the poor animals are 
foundered. Most people travel on horseback with pistols 
or swords and a large blanket folded up under their saddle 
which they use for sleeping in." Michaux who went over 
the road a few years later in 1802 draws a similar picture. 
There was apparently but little if any improvement dur- 
ing the seven years which had elapsed. He states: "The 
taverns along the road are almost everywhere very bad, 
nevertheless, rum, brandy and whiskey are always to be 
had, these articles of provision being considered as being 
of the first necessity, and the profits of those who keep 
taverns arise principally from the liquors of which there 
is a very great consumption. At breakfast they serve up 
bad tea, worse coffee and small slices of fried ham, to 
which are sometimes added eggs and boiled fowl. Dinner 
• — a piece of salt beef and roast fowls, with rum and water 
for drink; at night coffee, tea and ham. There are always 
several beds in the rooms in which they sleep, while sheets 
are seldom met with; happy the traveller who arrives on 
the day they are changed." 

As to table manners it was the usual custom for guests 
to reach across the table, or across three or four persons 
sitting next to them when they wished for some particular 



Conestoga Teams. iii 

dish. It was also the custom at these inns to do the carv- 
ing with one's own knife and fork, or spoon when wanting 
sugar; in other words the patrons of the dining room 
helped and looked out for themselves, and it was under- 
stood to be each man's duty to see that he got at least his 
share of the meal, even if he did choke to death on the first 
mouthful of meat, as was the case once at the old " Stage." 
During the latter part of the first quarter of the century 
there was on the entire length of the turnpike an almost 
unbroken procession of the ponderous Conestoga wagons, 
each drawn by five or six strong horses, on which was 
transported all the merchandise destined for the interior, 
and the extensive travel thus created and concentrated 
upon this once splendid highway stands without parallel 
in the history of transportation in the country previous 
to the Introduction of steam power. In contrast with the 
present methodical system of transportation the following 
advertisement, in 1818, of an old forwarder may prove 
of interest to the present generation. It reads: 

THOMAS M. SOUDER 

Having Opened a Store 

No. 312 Market Street 

For the reception of Merchandise to be transported to the 

WESTERN COUNTRY IN WAGONS, 

offers his services to the Merchants generally to take charge of 
their goods to be forwarded to Pittsburgh or any part of the 
western Country. He flatters himself that by his attention and the 
experience he has acquired he will be enabled to give general 
satisfaction. 



112 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

There were two occurrences which were always sure to 
break the monotony of the daily routine at these inns and 
which would empty the barroom of its inmates in an ex- 
ceedingly short time. One of these events was the com- 
petition between the rival stage coach lines. These races 
were of common occurrence on the turnpike in fine weather, 
and the favorite coach would always be sure of a cheer 
from the motley throng assembled on the tavern porch, as 
the foaming steeds dashed by the inn. The other event 
was the arrival or departure of the accommodation stage. 
This, as its name implies, stopped at all points wherever a 
passenger beckoned to the driver. These stages stopped 
at most all wagon taverns along the road. They were 
patronized as it were principally by parties who were 
going but a short distance, or those who could not afford 
to travel by either "post" or "mail." This sort of stage 
was generally a two-horse vehicle, the driver was also on 
terms of intimacy with both host and frequenters of these 
inns. Another source of revenue of the driver was the 
carrying of parcels or packages between any points on his 
route. These parcels would be delivered for a small 
remuneration and the custom was in fact the precursor of 
the present "Express" system. 

Travel in these stages was anything but comfortable, 
no matter how pleasant it was in one of the large four- 
horse mail stages; this was particularly the case in wet 
weather. A traveler giving his experience says : first, his 
feet got wet, and his clothing became plastered with mud 
from the wheel, the curtains not being tight; then the men's 
coats and boots commenced to steam in the confined coach, 
the horses draggled and chaffed by the traces, while the 
driver got soaked both inside and outside, while his temper 
was tried and found wanting. Still the tribulations of the 



The Turnpike in Winter. 113 

traveler in the stage wagon were insignificant in com- 
parison with what awaited the traveler in an " accommo- 
dation " sleigh, which was substituted for the stage when 
the ground was covered with snow to a depth which pre- 
cluded the stage from making headway. This sleigh was 
often a machine gotten up for the nonce, and consisted 
merely of rough boards nailed together in the form of an 
oblong box, with a drapery and roof of common muslin. 
There were narrow cross boards for seats, on which the 
passengers were compelled to sit bolt upright, without any 
support of any kind. This was not comfortable, but when 
the snow was smooth and firm, the machine rattled on very 
fast and smoothly over the icy road. 

One of the greatest drawbacks to the travel in winter 
on the turnpike were heavy snow storms; these often inter- 
rupted stage as well as wagon travel for days at a time, 
the mails as well as travelers being often detained at road- 
side inns for days on account of the deep drifts. The two 
greatest snow storms on record since the building of the 
turnpike were probably January 23, 1804, and the one in 
January, 1831; the latter is known as the great snow 
storm. It commenced on the night of the 14th of Janu- 
ary and continued without intermission until about noon 
on the 1 6th, during which time it is supposed the snow 
fell to an average depth of three feet. The wind was very 
high during the storm and the snow drifted in many places 
into banks over twenty feet high. Occupants of stage 
coaches and wagons who were on the road and were over- 
taken by the storm were forced to abandon their vehicles, 
leave them in the road and seek shelter for themselves and 
animals from the elements at the nearest inn or farm 
house, and in many cases when, after the storm had ceased 
and the parties went out to remove the stages or wagons, 



114 Way side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

no sign of them could be found, the drifts having com- 
pletely covered them up. On the turnpike the snow in 
many places had so drifted to fill up hollows and form 
banks in many places from five to ten feet high, rendering 
the road impassable. This of course stopped all trans- 
portation for almost two weeks; and notwithstanding the 
herculean efforts made by the mail contractors to open 
communication it was a week before the first mail arrived 
at Lancaster from Philadelphia. After the snow had 
ceased the contractors at once attempted to force the road 
from the Schuylkill to the Spread Eagle with several com- 
panies of horsemen of from twenty to thirty in each party, 
but so deep were the drifts that, with the violence of the 
wind and lightness of the snow, every mark of their prog- 
ress was immediately obliterated, and the road as impas- 
sable as before. At the Lancaster end the situation was 
even worse. All travel was abandoned for the time being, 
although every exertion was made to forward the mail. 
Fifty horses were employed in the vain attempt to break 
the road in advance of the stage over a distance of nine 
miles, yet the stage could not proceed, though dragged 
upon runners by six of the finest horses of the line, one of 
which perished through exhaustion. An idea of this storm 
may be formed by the fact that the cut for the railroad in 
front of the Drove Tavern in Reeseville (Berwyn) which 
had just been completed (it averaged 22 feet in depth) 
was so completely filled up with snow as not to be dis- 
cernible. 

This storm was particularly severe on a number of 
German emigrants who were on the road to Ohio with 
their families and possessions. They were cared for by 
the county authorities until the roads were in condition to 
permit their journey Westward. A gentleman who was 



The Mail Sleigh. 115 

anxious to get to Lancaster at this time thus describes his 
experience: " I remained a fortnight waiting for a change 
of weather but it never came, the roads, however, had 
become quite practicable for traveling and I at length 
determined on departure. At five o'clock in the morning 
I accordingly drove to Market street, where I took pos- 
session of a place in a sleigh shaped like an omnibus. The 
snow lay deep on the ground and the weather was cold in 
the extreme. After some delay the vehicle got into motion. 
The mail sleigh in which I found myself a passenger was 
one of the most wretched vehicles imaginable. The wind 
— a northwester — penetrated the curtains of the machine 
at a thousand crevices, and charged with particles of snow 
so fine as to be almost impalpable communicated to the 
faces of the passengers the sensation of suffering under a 
hurricane of needles. We breakfasted at a wretched 
cabaret, and the pretensions of the dinner house were not 
much greater. The fare, however, though coarse, was 
abundant, still a traveler, to get on comfortably, must take 
things as he finds them." In connection with this phe- 
nomenal storm, the following description of some of the 
tribulations which beset the hardy class of men in the 
inclement season, who handled the reins of the mail coach, 
will no doubt prove a revelation to many a youth of the 
present generation : " When the existing circumstance 
rendered it impossible to proceed further with the stage 
he (the driver) unloosed the horses and endeavored to 
take them to the nearest inn, a distance of about a mile 
and a half. He rode about half a mile when his four 
horses became imbedded in a snowbank. They were so 
perfectly chilled that they were almost incapable even of 
walking, much less of extricating themselves. Under these 
circumstances, he procured a rail from an adjoining fence, 



ii6 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

and dug them out of the snow. He then retraced his steps, 
depositing three of his horses in a neighboring stable, and 
with the other continued his journey determined as he said 
' to deliver the mail safely at the hazard of his life.' 
When he arrived at the inn, his eyelashes were cemented 
together with ice — himself so benumbed that he could 
scarcely articulate, and his situation so precarious that the 
most active restoratives were found necessary for his 
recovery." 

The era of transportation by wagon which developed 
into such large proportions, and in which so much indi- 
vidual capital was invested and required, and gave em- 
ployment to so large a number of horses and men, may 
be said to have reached Its height about 1830, and from 
the 1 8th day of October, 1832, when the first car was 
drawn over the Columbia Railroad, from Belmont to the 
West Chester Intersection, we may say that the transition 
from the Indian "Trail" to the "T — rail" of modern 
civilization was complete. As far as our vicinity was con- 
cerned the decline of the wagon calling was rapid, and as 
a natural result the patronage of what little travel re- 
mained on the turnpike after the railroad fairly got under 
way was soon absorbed by the more reputable hostelries. 

Chairman Miller in his report on Internal Improve- 
ments made to the Legislature in 1834, thus sets forth the 
situation of affairs in this transition period: 

The disposition of men to frequent long established marts, and 
to travel to them on the beaten path, is not suddenly overcome. 
Old habits are not readily abandoned; old associations not easily 
broken up ; a sudden transition from one course to another can only 
be induced from powerfully interesting motives. The trader is 
frequently interested in the employment of the wagoner. The 
railroad system is not fully adapted to the demands of a trade, the 



The Waggoners' Plaint. 117 

extent of which can only be determined by its own development. 
Dela}'s occur, discontent ensues, the parts of the system are not in 
harmony with each other; the sj-stem is formed and completed, 
and moves harmoniously and hand in hand with the demands made 
upon it. The smaller asperities are smoothed down, gradually — 
the old disappears and the new takes its place, and as the keel boat 
has been displaced by the steamboat on the waters of the West, so 
will (but not to the same extent), the wagons disappear and be 
displaced by the railroad car on the line of the railroad. 

The hardy wagoners got up a song upon the loss of 
their occupation, a verse of which ran : 

" Oh, 'tis once I made money by driving my team. 
But now all is hauled on the railroad by steam. 
May the devil catch the man that invented the plan. 
For its ruined us poor wagoners and every other man." 

By the " every other man" were meant the Inn keepers, 
blacksmiths, hostlers and such others who depended on the 
travel on the turnpike for a livelihood. 

The following wall published about seventy years ago 
will form an appropriate close to this sketch: 

" Not only have the Conestoga teams disappeared but the stage. 
Alas! the stage horn no longer is heard — the bounding wheels no 
longer rattle over the white compact road. 

" No more the weary stager dreads 
The toil of the coming morn; 
No more the bustling landlord runs 
At the sound of the echoing horn, 
The old turnpike is now left alone. 
And the stagers have sought the plow. 
We have circled the earth with an iron rail, 
And the Steam King rules us now." 




*' THE GENERAL PAOLI." 

AND THE EARLY DAYS OF THE TURNPIKE AND THE 
COLUMBIA RAILROAD. 

♦jrN the early part of the 

" eighteenth century while 
yet Anne reigned over Eng- 
land there arrived in the Del- 
aware river a staunch ship, 
name of craft and master 
long forgotten, with a num- 
ber of Welsh emigrants, who 
had been allured from their 
native shores by the fair and 
seductive promises of Wm. 
Penn and his agents. These 
people came to the new world in the hope of bettering their 
condition, supposing they were to have here a barony of 
their own; they possibly also expected like many of their 
fellows who had preceded them to these trackless wilds, to 
find kinsfolk in the Indians, who they were told by their 
local sagas and legends were descended from their countr}'- 
men, who were supposed to have settled two colonies in the 
western world as far back as the twelfth centur}', under 
the leadership of Prince Madog, the youngest son of 

Ii8 




The Welsh Tract. 119 

Owain Gwynedd, a King of Wales. This tradition was 
further strengthened by the supposed or fancied similarity 
between the language of the Leni Lenape and the ancient 
*' British " tongue, which was the only language in use 
among the rural Welsh. Among these emigrants, who 
thus landed on our shores was a little family group, from 
"Merionethshire"; they were first cousins, and all of one 
family, forty-two in number. Our records unfortunately 
fail to inform us how many of this remarkable family 
were either left behind in Wales or died during the long 
voyage across the stormy Atlantic. 

This family group soon after their arrival scattered 
themselves through the Welsh tract in Chester county, 
mainly in the great valley, others again settled on portions 
of what is known as Montgomery county, at that time, 
however, part of Philadelphia county. Their settlements 
can still be traced by the Welsh names given to their new 
homes at the purchase of the land. 

These settlers brought little to this country in the way 
of worldly possessions; in many instances their entire for- 
tune besides a few household goods, and the means to 
purchase a plantation, consisted solely in their rugged con- 
stitutions and their "Pedigree," which by the aid of the 
prefix " ap " they traced back to the original Adam of old. 

One of the most prominent of this family group was 
one William Evans, who we find in 17 19 purchased a 
plantation of five hundred acres in the upper portion of 
the "Welsh Tract" located on the south valley hill in the 
southwestern part of the township of Tre: yr: Dyffryn, 
signifying in their musical language "Stony Valley." 
William Evans was a blacksmith by trade and here started 
the first smithy in the vicinity. His shop and house, which 
was probably a rude log structure, was located near the 



120 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

old bridle path to Conestoga which was the precursor of 
the old Lancaster road. From the earliest time he was a 
man of considerable importance in the infant settlement, 
and he appears as a vestryman together with his neighbor, 
Anthony Wain (Wayne) the immigrant, in the first reg- 
ular v^estry formed in 1725 at the old Welsh Church in 
the lower end of the Welsh Tract (St. David's, Radnor). 
His son, Joshua Evans, born 1732, was probably the 
builder of the oldest part of the present stone tavern, 
which at that time, though a small and unpretending 
structure, was destined to become famous and known far 
and near, and to have a name in history as long as the 
country shall last. It was the sign-board of this house 
which gave the name to the barbarous affair during the 
Revolution, on the night of September 21, 1777, although 
the massacre took place much nearer to the Admiral 
Warren than to the subject of our sketch. The name of 
" Paoli " is always associated with the unfortunate affair. 
This was really the result of the accidental naming and 
locating the house on the military map drawn just after 
lished in London during the following year. 

The house at the time of the Revolution was a small 
unpretentious two-story affair, with small windows and 
low ceilings and, as near as can now be determined after 
the lapse of one hundred and thirty-five years, covered a 
space of about 42x30 feet. Remnants of the original 
building can still be seen. The house when built faced 
the ancient road leading from the Yellow Springs to New- 
town Square and known as the Darby road. It is also said 
to have been a former Indian trail. This road crossed the 
old Lancaster road at an angle at this point. The house 
stood some distance north of the old Lancaster road, now 



Joshua Evans. 121 

supplanted by the turnpike. The course of the former 
road can still be traced through the hollow where the 
pumping station stands, thence westward up the hill by a 
row of cedars just back of the Church of the Good Samari- 
tan. The house did not appear as a landmark until long 
after the Revolution, 

In the August session of the Court of General Quarter 
Sessions held at Chester in 1769, the following petition 
was presented to the Judges: 

" The petition of Joshua Evans Humbly Showeth. That 
whereas there Is no house of public entertainment between the 
Yellow Springs and the Square in Newtown, on the road leading 
through a large body of the upper part of this country by the 
Valley Church^ to Chester, Darby, &c., which Is too great a dis- 
tance for one stage, being fourteen miles apart, and of consequence 
must be attended with great disadvantage to the large concourse 
of people passing that way and as your petitioner has a very com- 
modious house situated In the township of Tredyffrin, on Lancaster 
road, where the aforesaid road meets with the same, as the great 
road leading down through Newtown to Darby and Chester 
branches therefrom, and as your petitioner humbly considers a 
public house In the aforesaid place would be of great use not only 
to those passing to Chester and Darby, but also to travelers going 
and coming that way from Philadelphia, &c., &c., your petitioner 
therefore humbly requests your Honors to recommend him to his 
Honor, the Governor, for a license to keep a public house of enter- 
tainment In the aforesaid place and your petitioner as duty bound 
shall ever pray. 

(Signed) Joshua Evans. 

The recommenders signing this document were Anthony 
Wayne, Lewis Gronow and sixteen others, most all of 
them being prominent members of the Valley Church.^ 



122 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

The petition, however, it is said was strenuously opposed 
by the widow Weatherby of the Blue Ball, one mile east 
of the new candidate for public patronage, as well as by 
Lynford Lardner, the landlord of the Admiral Warren, 
two and a half miles further west, who in his petition to 
the Court in 1770 sets forth that he was but three and a 
half miles from the Blue Ball, and that there was no neces- 
sity for the new tavern which had been set up in the 
previous year between his place and the Ball. 

Notwithstanding this strong opposition to the recom- 
mendation of Evans for license, the Judges seem to have 
thought that an inn was necessary at this point, and the 
application was endorsed "allowed"; they were probably 
influenced in their action by the good character of the 
applicant, together with the known respectability of his 
recommenders. 

No doubt the patriotic spirit then rife in the province 
had something to do with the selection of the name of the 
inn. The new tavern was called "The General Paoli 
Tavern." 

It was named after Pascal Paoli, a Corsican General 
and patriot, who at that time was living in exile in Eng- 
land, and who though unsuccessful was still the ideal 
patriot and champion of liberty of the day. 

In 1755 Paoli had been elected generalissimo of the 
Corsicans, who were then struggling against the Genoese; 
he waged the war so successfully as to confine the enemy 
within the narrow limits of their fortified seaports. His 
next care was to enact wise laws, introduce reforms, and 
encourage agriculture. But all his noble labors were ren- 
dered abortive by the Genoese selling the Island to France. 
After a heroic struggle against the invaders Paoli once 
more became an exile. Very little is known of the Paoli 



Massacre at Paoli. 123 

tavern during the first years of Its existence; It was not 
until the outbreak of the Revolution that the new tavern 
came into prominence, owing to the proximity of the house 
to the homes of Anthony Wayne, Rev. David Jones, the 
Bartholemews, Andersons, Gronows, Pearces, and other 
patriotic minded men of the vicinity. The Inn soon became 
a favorite gathering place of the patriots; meetings were 
held, when the affairs of the province and the situation 
were talked over and plans laid for future action. 

No records remain us as to the losses sustained by the 
owner of the Paoli while the country was overrun by the 
British after the battle of the Brandywine, In September, 
1777. The history of the affair on the night of the 20th 
of September, one and a half miles southwest of the Inn, 
known In history as the *' Massacre of Paoli," Is too well 
known to repeat here. On that eventful night were two 
regiments of British troops (the fortieth and fifty-fourth 
Infantry) under the command of Colonel Musgrave, 
stationed at the road crossing here, so as to intercept the 
patriots should they attempt to retreat In this direction ; 
these troops were not In action during that night. 

After Philadelphia was evacuated by the British forces 
In June, 1778, the Paoli, together with all the roadside 
inns on the way to Lancaster, commenced to reap the 
harvest caused by the great increase of travel on the great 
road from Philadelphia. 

It was no doubt about this time that the first addition 
was made to the house. This addition Is still discernible 
In the rear of the large house; It was built of limestone or 
blue marble of the Valley, the joints were pointed; It was 
about 27 X30 feet and the house still fronted on the Valley 
road, the gable end being towards the Provincial road. 

This enlargement became necessary on account of the 



124 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

increased demand upon the landlord, the house at that 
early day already having attained a reputation for clean 
beds and good cheer for man and beast. 

The following curious extract relating to the Paoli is 
from the diary of William Priest, who was a musician and 
a member of the Philadelphia theater in 1794-6 and it 
well illustrates the local gossip of the times: 

"August 10, 1794, we slept about a mile from the ' Pioli,' I 
took a walk to reconnoitre the field of battle, with one who was 
present at that horrid affair." 

" General Wayne was completely surprised, but had his revenge 
at Stony Point.^ I spent the evening at the ' PioH,' with a surgeon 
of the American army lately from the scene of action ; he gave me 
a disgusting account of the misunderstanding that subsists between 
the American citizen on the frontier, and their neighbors in Upper 
Canada. It seems the Canadians are accused of assisting the In- 
dians in their decisive action against ' St. Clare.' " 

It was not until after the completion of the turnpike In 
1794 that the era of great prosperity of Paoli commenced. 

Local tradition gives to General Anthony Wayne the 
credit while a member of the General Assembly of the 
State, 1784-6, of offering the first resolution relating to 
the improvement of the roads and inland navigation of 
the State. 

The turnpike was located so as to run directly in front 
of the tavern, and as the old road was vacated for a con- 
siderable distance in both directions it naturally brought 
all the traffic upon the new highway directly to the house. 

This great road, the first of its kind in America, was 
6254 miles long, twenty-four feet of the bed was covered 
with a stratum of pounded stone eighteen inches thick in 

1 St. Peter's P. E. Church (Great Valley). 



^ -n 



> ^ 

O 2 

C H 
.: I 

o 

Z 




The Turnpike Company. 125 

the middle of the road, and decreasing each way to twelve 
inches. The valley hill was the most elevated and steep 
on the road but the angle of ascent nowhere exceeded four 
degrees ; the highest point on the road is the top of the hill 
just west of the Paoli, and is said to be six hundred feet 
above tide water. 

The act incorporating the Philadelphia and Lancaster 
Turnpike Company was approved by Gov. Mifflin April 
9, 1792, and states that 

" Whereas the great quantity of heavy articles of the growth 
and produce of the country and of foreign goods which are daily 
transported between the city of Philadelphia and the western 
counties of the State requires an amendment of the highway, which 
can only be effected by artificial beds of stone and gravel disposed 
in such a manner as to prevent the wheels of carriages from cutting 
into the soil, the expenses whereof will be great, and it is reason- 
able that those who will enjoy the benefits of such highway should 
pay a compensation therefor, and there is reason to believe that 
such highway will be undertaken by an association of citizens if 
proper encouragement be given by the Legislature." 

" Elliston Perot, Henry Drinker, jr., Owen Jones, jr., Israel 
Whelen and Cadwallader Evans, of Philadelphia, and Edward 
Hand, John Hubley, Paul Zantzinger, Mathias Slough and Abra- 
ham Witmer, of the County of Lancaster, were appointed Com- 
missioners to open books and receive subscriptions to the stock, the 
par value of each share being $300, after notice had been given in 
two English and one German paper in Philadelphia and the 
paper printed at Lancaster, for one calendar month of the time 
and places when and where the books were to be open to receive 
subscriptions. On these days the Commissioners were obliged to 
attend and permit and suffer all persons who shall offer to sub- 
scribe in the said books, which were to be kept open at least six 
hours in every Judicial day, for three days if necessary; on the first 
of these days, any person, of the age of twenty-one years shall be 

9 



126 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

at liberty to subscribe for one share ; on the second day, for one or 
two shares; on the third, for one, two or three shares; if not all 
taken by the end of the third day the Commissioners were em- 
powered to adjourn until all shares are subscribed when the books 
are to be closed. Each subscriber was required to pay a deposit 
of thirty dollars per share." 

The annual meetings of the new company were held on 
the second Monday in each year at such places as decided 
on by the stockholders. Section VIII. authorized the sur- 
veyors, etc., of the company to enter into and upon all and 
ever}% the lands, tenements and enclosures, through and 
over which the said intended turnpike may be thought 
proper to pass, etc. The course to be pursued in making 
the road was to combine shortness of distance with the 
most practicable ground from the west side of the Schuyl- 
kill, opposite Philadelphia, so as to pass near to or over 
the bridge on Brandywine creek, near Downing'stown, 
from thence to Witmer's bridge, on Conestoga creek, 
thence to the east end of King street, where the buildings 
cease in the borough of Lancaster. 

From among the curious provisions and regulations, as 
set forth in the Act incorporating the company the follow- 
ing are selected: 

By Section IX. the employers or agents of the company 
were authorized to enter upon the lands in, over, continu- 
ous, and near to which the route and track of the intended 
road shall pass to dig, take and carry away any stone, 
gravel, sand or earth there being most conveniently situ- 
ated for making or repairing the said road. 

The next section gives authority for the construction of 
permanent bridges wherever necessary; it further states 
that the company "shall cause a road to be laid out fifty 



Turnpike Tolls. 127 

feet wide, twenty-one feet whereof in breadth at least shall 
be bedded with wood, stone, gravel or any other hard sub- 
stance, well compacted together a sufficient depth to secure 
a solid foundation to the same; and the said road shall be 
faced with gravel or stone pounded in such manner as to 
secure a firm even surface, rising towards the middle by 
a graded arch, and so nearly level in its progress as that it 
shall in no place rise or fall more than will form an angle 
of four degress with a horizontal line. 

Tolls were authorized to be established and collected at 
the completion of every ten miles of road, after a favor- 
able report of same had been made to the Governor by 
three skillful and judicious examiners. 

The company were empowered to appoint their toll 
gatherers who had the right to stop any person from pass- 
ing over the turnpike until they had paid their toll. Tolls 
were all based on a stretch of ten miles, and so in propor- 
tion for a greater or lesser distance, viz. : 

For every score of Sheep, 

<( tt (C TT 

Hogs, 
" " " Cattle, 

" Horse and rider, or led Horse, 
" " Sulkey, Chair, or Chaise with 
one horse and two wheels. 
Chariot, Coach, Stage, Wagon, 
Phaeton, or Chaise, with 2 
horses and four wheels, 
Either of the Carriages last men- 
tioned, with four horses. 

For every other Carriage of pleasure, under whatever name it 
may go, the like sums, according to the number of wheels and 
horses drawing the same. 

For every Cart or Wagon whose wheels do not exceed the 



Vs 


dollar. 


Vs 


11 


1/4 


(1 


-16 


(( 


Vs 


(( 


1/4 


(( 


% 


(C 



128 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

breadth of four inches, % dollar for each horse drawing the same. 

For every Cart or Wagon whose wheels shall exceed in breadth 
four inches, and not exceed seven inches, 1-16 dollar for every 
horse drawing the same. 

For every cart or wagon, the breadth of whose wheels sliall be 
more than seven and not more than ten inches, or being of the 
breadth of seven inches shall roll more than 10 inches, five cents 
for every horse drawing the same. 

Where the breadth shall be more than 10 inches and not exceed 
12 inches, or being lO shall roll more than 15 inches three cents 
for every horse. 

For every cart or wagon where the breadth of wheel shall be 
more than 12 inches two cents for every horse drawing the same. 

Between December i and May i, no wagon with four wheels, 
having less than four inches breadth of tire was to be leaded over 
23^ tons, 

From four to seven inch tire 3^ tons, 
" seven to ten " 5 

For carts with t\vo wheels the limit was 
under four inches 1I4 tons 
From " to seven inches ij^ tons, 
seven to ten 3 

From the first of May to December i the limit was 
about one half ton more to the wagon or cart. 

It was further ordered, that no cart, wagon or carriage 
of burden whatsoever whose wheels shall not be the 
breadth of nine inches at least, shall be drawn or pass 
over the said road or any part thereof, with more than six 
horses, nor shall more than eight horses be attached to 
any carriage whatsoever, used on the said road; and if any 
wagon or other carriage shall be drawn along the said 
road by a greater number of horses, or with a greater 
weight, than is hereby permitted, "one of the horses 
attached thereto shall be forfeited to the use of said Com- 



Toll Gates and Rules. 129 

pany to be seized and taken by any of their officers or serv- 
ants, who shall be at liberty to choose which of the said 
horses they may think proper, excepting the shaft or wheel 
horse or horses." 

In charging tolls two oxen were estimated as one horse, 
" and ever}^ mule as equal to one horse." 

Section XVIII. authorized the managers to increase 
above tolls if at the expiration of two years the profits did 
not amount to six per cent. At the end of ten years a 
report was to be rendered to the Assembly, of their 
accounts for the three preceding years, and if it should 
appear that the clear profits and income would bear a 
dividend of more than 15 per cent, per annum the tolls 
were to be reduced, so as to reduce the dividend down to 
15 per cent, per annum. 

The company was further enjoined to erect posts and 
sign-boards at all intersections, also to place milestones on 
the roadside beginning at a distance of one mile from the 
east side of the Schuylkill ; also at every toll gate, a placard 
placed in a conspicuous position showing in legible charac- 
ters, the distance from Philadelphia, the distance from the 
nearest gates in each direction, designating the number of 
miles and the fractions; also, a printed list of the rates 
of toll, which, from time to time, may lawfully be 
amended. 

Drivers were ordered to keep the right hand side in the 
passing direction. The fine for obstructing the road, or 
passing on the left side was two dollars and costs. 

In a subsequent Act approved April 17, 1795, the com- 
pany were empowered to increase the width of the road to 
sixty-eight feet. The Act also made it unlawful for the 
company to demand or receive any toll for a greater dis- 
tance than shall be actually traveled; it further provided, 



130 JFays'ide Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

that no toll was to be paid by persons for passing on the 
road upon the business of their adjoining farms. 

Before the construction of this road regularity of trans- 
portation was impossible, as during the rainy season, or 
on the breaking up of the frost, wagons were frequently 
detained on the road sometimes for weeks, and the mer- 
chandise conveyed in them was subject to injury from the 
delay as well as the roughness and dangerous condition of 
these highways. It was further calculated that the reduc- 
tion in the expense of transportation, added to the in- 
creased value of the lands adjacent to the great turnpike, 
would amount to more than the cost of its construction. 

On the new road broad wheeled wagons, such as were 
known by the name of " Conestogas," "Turnpike Schoon- 
ers" or "Pitt teams" were supposed to carry thirty bar- 
rels of flour or three tons; the usual freight charged was 
one dollar per barrel, while the tolls between Philadelphia 
and Lancaster amounted to three dollars or about one 
dollar per ton. 

Michaux, who traveled over the road In 1802, mentions 
that the taverns on the road were very numerous, and that 
the German language was spoken In almost all of them. 
He further says his fellow travelers were always thirsty, 
and would stop the stage at every tavern to drink some 
glasses of grog. This he states was a mixture of brandy 
and water, or rum and water, the proportions of which 
depended solely on the taste of each person. 

Sutcliff, a public friend, mentions in his journal, 1806, 
8th month 27th, " at the inn where I breakfasted, which 
was the General Paoli tavern, I met with a family who 
had landed a few days before In Philadelphia, and were 
now on their way to the Ohio. As they spoke neither Eng- 
lish nor French, I was unable to make out from what part 



The War of 1812. 131 

of the continent of Europe they came. The master of 
the inn informed me that he had reason to believe they had 
a very large property with them in the wagons in which 
they traveled." 

As the traffic continued to increase the inn again soon 
became too small, and during the latter part of the first 
decade of the last century the large addition, 81x38 
feet, facing the turnpike was built. It was completed in 
18 12, the year in which the second war with England was 
declared. After Governor Simon Snyder issued his procla- 
mation, May 12, 1 8 12, for volunteers, recruiting went on 
briskly at the Paoli as well as at the other taverns in the 
vicinity, the result of which was the mustering of the 97th 
Regiment, Pennsylvania Volunteers, into the service of the 
United States, May 5, 18 13. 

After the destruction of Washington by the British 
in 1 8 14 great fears were entertained of an attempt to 
capture Philadelphia by way of Chester county. Another 
proclamation was issued by the Governor for the militia. 
Isaac Wayne, son of the General, was elected Colonel of 
the Second Regiment Volunteer Light Infantry, but it Is 
said preferred to serve as a private soldier In a company 
of volunteer cavalry. 

Joshua Evans continued to keep the house until April 
23, 18 14, when he was succeeded by his son Joshua Evans, 
jr. (born January, 1777), who soon became one of the 
most prominent and best known men in Chester county; 
he was a man of singular good sense and judgment, clear 
intellect, wonderful nerve, and was destined to exercise 
great power in both county and State; during his whole 
career he was an uncompromising Democrat of the Jeffer- 
son and Jackson school. 



132 JVayside bins on Lancaster Turnpike. 

It does not appear what part he took, if any, in the war 
of 1812. 

As an illustration of the great amount of travel at this 
early day it is but necessary to enumerate some of the land 
stages that passed and stopped at the house in 1 8 14 : 

1. Baltimore Stage Turnpike Route via Lancaster every 
Second and Fourth days. 

2. Carlisle stage. 

3. Columbia stage. 

4. Harrisburg Stage Line. Every day — Seventh-day 
only excepted — at 7 o'clock a. m. from the first of the 
Twelfth-month (December) to the fifteenth of Fourth- 
month (April) and five days in the week the remainder 
of the year. To proceed up the river from Harrisburg 
direct. Seats to be had on First-day (Sunday) at the stage 
office, corner High and Eighth streets. 

5. The Pittsburg stage via Harrisburg. 

6. The Lancaster stage. A daily line leaving High and 
Eighth streets at 7 o'clock in the morning. 

7. York stage. 

8. The Valley stage, from 164 High street. 

9. West Chester stage, from No. 18 North Fourth 
street, Third, Fifth and Seventh days at 8 a. m. 

10. Westtown School, from No. 80 High street every 
Fourth and Seventh days. 

According to the postoffice regulations in 1812 mail 
stages were required to carry the mails from Philadelphia 
to Pittsburg in six ordinary days. 

The arrival or departure of thestagecoaches was always 
a matter of considerable excitement around the inn. As 
one would come thundering up or down the turnpike and 
draw up in front of the tavern, with its four fine horses 



The General Paoli. 133 

prancing and covered with dust and foam, it would at 
once become the great center of interest. One of the 
hostlers would usually have the door of the coach open 
and be ready to assist the passengers to alight, even before 
the driver had time to come down from his seat, after 
throwing his reins to the ready stable boy. While the 
landlord and habitues of the barroom, the hostlers, stable 
boys and other hangers-on about the tavern yard would 
at once rush out, the former to welcome the travelers and 
possible guests, the latter prompted by idle curiosity, or 
in the hope of hearing scraps of the news or gossip of the 
day, as told by the drivers at the bar between " 'ere's to 
your good health," or while waiting for the relays to be 
substituted for the exhausted steeds. Then followed the 
embarking of the passengers, after their parting glass, 
the wishing of "God speed" by the host, the cracking of 
the driver's whip and on some lines the tooting of the horn, 
then the journey towards the next relay station commenced 
at full speed, where the same scenes would be re-enacted, 
and so on until the end of the journey would be reached. 
A trav^eler describing his stop at the Paoli in 18 13 says: 
"A scene of bustle unprecedented by anything I had ever 
met before, presented itself till midnight, supper was three 
times spread for at least twenty people, and as the cham- 
bers were not very numerous we were under the necessity 
of agreeing amongst ourselves for bed fellows. My 
partner was a merchant with whose conversation I had 
been pleased during the evening and we were shown along 
the passages to a remote room. We were aroused at four 
o'clock in the morning to proceed on our journey to the 
city." 

Another writer about the same period says: "At dusk 
when we stopped at the Paoli to water the horses and 



^34 JFayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

brandy the gentlemen the busy scene round the inn by the 
roadside with several great four-horse stages pouring forth 
their cargoes by the dozen would have furnished material 
for many a page in the sketch book, &c." 

The following two advertisements in reference to the 
war of 1812 and the subject of this sketch appeared in the 
county paper under their respective dates : 

March 16, 18 16. I. Wynkop, regimental paymaster, 
advertises that he "will attend at the house of Joshua 
Evans, Paoli tavern, on Thursday, the fourth day of April 
next, to paying Captain Wersler's Company, Second Regt. 
Penn. Vol. Light Inf." 

March 18, 18 16. John G. Bull, paymaster of the 65th 
Pennsylvania Militia advertises that he " has appointed 
Tuesday, the 26th inst., at the Paoli in Tredyffrin town- 
ship to meet Captain Campbel's company. Captain 
Weatherby's company on Wednesday, the 27th, at the 
same place." 

During this year the "Republican Artillerists" were 
organized of which Joshua Evans at once became a promi- 
nent member. 

Joshua Evans, the elder, died April 25, 18 17. The 
reputation and prosperity of the Paoli continued to in- 
crease from year to year. As a result a number of taverns 
were established on the turnpike on both sides of the Paoli, 
the nearest one was the " General Jackson," just east of 
the Darby road. It was erected and presided over, as has 
been stated, by Randall Evans, a brother of Joshua. 
Tradition tells us that there were frequently outbursts of 
temper between the two brothers, as one would find the 
other interfering with his regular patrons. Joshua was 
elected to the State Legislature in 1820. At this period 



Paoli Post Office. 135 

there were few pieces of property In the State outside of 
Philadelphia which were more valuable than the Paoli; 
the house was the gathering place for the surrounding 
townships, while the patronage from the travelers on the 
turnpike taxed the house to its fullest extent, so much so 
that there was very little show for a teamster or wagoner 
getting any accommodation. Among other enterprises of 
the proprietor was a large lumber yard on the turnpike 
east of the house. 

In 1825 during Lafayette's visit to America Joshua 
Evans and Isaac Wayne were both on the committee which 
waited on the General for the purpose of inviting him to 
visit Chester county. 

It was not until the following year, December 9, 1826, 
that a postoffice was established at the Paoli. Joshua 
Evans was appointed the first postmaster. 

When, in 1826-7, the question of building the Colum- 
bia Railroad was being agitated It was urged by the 
friends of the enterprise, In furtherance of the project, 
that the prodigious advantage resulting from science may 
best be appreciated by reflecting that a weight, which, on 
an Improved railroad, could be transported with facility by 
the agency of a single horse, would among our red brethren 
(who preceded us but a little over a century and a quarter) 
require the laborious application of a thousand "squaw" 
power to remove. In 1828 the Columbia Railroad was 
laid out and commenced by the Canal Commissioners of the 
State by order of an act of the Legislature of that year. 
This railroad, which Is now a part of the great Pennsyl- 
vania Railroad system, was first surveyed under the 
direction of Major John Wilson, but was not finished until 
1834. It Is said that the first survey of the road was 
located from Columbia to the "Warren" without much 



136 JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

difficulty, but from that point east great difficulties pre- 
sented themselves, in finding a favorable route for leaving 
the Chester Valley. The route as run by Mr. Haines 
went through the valley from the Warren, north of the 
valley ridge, by way of Howelltown, recrossing to the 
south of the ridge a short distance north of the Spread 
Eagle Tavern ; this route would have completely cut the 
Paoli off from the contemplated new highway. 

The road was finally located on the south side of the 
valley ridge, so as to pass just north of the Paoli Tavern. 
It is said this conclusion was due to the influence and 
demands of General Evans, backed by several good 
dinners. In the meantime Evans had been elected to 
Congress, wherein he represented the District from 1829- 
33. The portion of the new road extending fourteen 
miles west from the "White Hall" was known as the 
Paoli section, and was constructed under the supervision 
of Enoch Davis. Following is a copy of the MSS. in- 
structions issued to him for his guidance from the head- 
quarters of the engineer corps at the Buck Tavern. 

Instructions to Superintendents. 

It will be the duty of the superintendent to see that the stakes 
set by the assistant engineers are preserved and that the trenches 
are laid out agreeably to the directions. He will examine the 
length, depth and width of the trenches, and in no case shall any 
trench be filled in with broken stone, before it has been examined 
by the superintendent or before the broken stone has been inspected 
by the assistant engineer. 

The superintendent will attend particularly to the examining of 
the broken stone, as expressed in the printed specifications. 

He will inspect the sleepers as they are distributed on the road, 
and will suffer none to be laid which he does not consider in con- 



Building the Railroad. 137 

formity to the specifications, taking however, the earliest oppor- 
tunity to report to the assistant engineer having charge of the work, 
any materials which he may reject. 

The superintendent will see that the sleepers are properly 
bedded and rammed and that the work is executed strictly accord- 
ing to the specifications. 

If any directions given by the superintendent are disregarded, 
he will immediately report to the assistant engineer. 

It will be the duty of the superintendent to report all defective 
work without delay. 

E. Div. CoLM. & Phila, Railway. 

September, 1832. 

Specifications for Laying Wooden Rails, Sills. 

The wooden sills shall be of chestnut, chestnut oak or white 
oak free from sap and sound in every respect, seven and a half feet 
in length, and of sufficient size to square seven inches. They will 
be dressed flat on the under side and notched out on the upper side 
for the horse path and for the reception of the string pieces accord- 
ing to the plan and directions of the engineer. 

Trenches. 

The trenches for the reception of the broken stone shall be four 
feet apart from centre to centre, one foot in width, sixteen inches 
in depth and eight feet in length; where the trench is cut in rock 
the depth need not exceed four inches. The earth excavated from 
the trenches must be removed from the graded surface of the road 
and deposited on the slopes of the nearest embankment, the same 
will be done with the earth taken from the surface of such embank- 
ments as may be required to be reduced to the proper grade. 

Broken Stone. 

The stone upon which the sills are to be bedded, no particle of 
which must be larger than a cube of two inches, must be approved 



138 JV ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

by the engineer before being used. No earth, no clay or material 
must be suffered to be mixed with the broken stone. 



Layings. 

The position, vertical and horizontal, of the track will be given 
at convenient distances by the Engineer; the contractor completing 
the levels and curvatures required. 

The width and depth of the trenches having been formed as 
above mentioned, broken stone to the depth of four inches will be 
put in, and well compacted with a heavy rammer; more may then 
be added, but in no case shall more than four inches be put in 
without being thus compacted. 

The sills may now be laid, and firmly adjusted to the proper 
level with a wooden rammer ; the string pieces can be placed in the 
notches, and keyed up ; the inner edges chamfered off one inch, and 
the iron base put agreeably to the directions of the engineer. The 
broken stone will then be placed on the horsepath so that the track 
may be finished for use. 

The keys may be of white oak or yellow pine, one foot in length, 
two inches in height, and one and a half inches thick, tapering to 
three-quarters. It is expected that every part of the work will be 
executed in a faithful and workmanship manner; no indifferent or 
careless work will be estimated or received. 

As will be seen by above specifications the railway of 
eighty years ago was entirely different from the present 
magnificent highway, with its quadruple tracks, and 
elaborate system of automatic switches and block signals; 
the railway as first constructed consisted of a single track 
formed partly of stone sills, and partly of wooden rails, 
plated with flat bars of iron. The space between the rails 
being filled in with broken stone for the horses to travel 
on, as the rails were but a small distance above the horse 
track, the consequence was that pieces of the "stuffing" 



The First Raikdcay Car. 139 

were continually coming in contact with the wheels to the 
great disadvantage of the draught. Another serious diffi- 
culty which presented itself, while the road was run by 
horse power upon the highway principle, was the regulat- 
ing of the speed of the different trains. It is well known 
that scarcely two teams can be found to propel the same 
weight with equal speed, and that a horse when loaded 
should not travel faster than two and one half miles per 
hour to produce this maximum effect, while the passenger 
cars were expected to make about eight miles an hour if 
they were to supersede the "Land Stages" on the Turn- 
pike. Another great obstacle in the way of uniform 
speed was the constantly varying grade of the Columbia 
railroad; a fact which further enhanced the difficulty in 
proportion to the increased length of road traveled, the 
power of the horses being constantly impaired by the 
fatigue of their muscles made frequent relays necessary. 
Consequently, the attempt to make all cars travel at a uni- 
form rate of speed proved an absolute failure from the 
start. 

The first car passed over the new road October 18, 
1832, from Belmont to the West Chester intersection 
(Malvern). It carried the United States mail and thirty 
passengers, and was drawn by two horses. It took the 
place of the Lancaster mail coach between these points. 
It was not until Christmas, 1833, that the first car passed 
from Broad and Vine streets to West Chester. 

These early cars were small four wheel affairs, some- 
what like the present "Tally-ho" four-in-hand coaches. 
They were drawn by two horses tandem, and known as 
"Fly Coaches" or "Fire Flies." Seats for passengers 
were arranged inside as well as outside on the top of the 
car, with a seat for the driver at each end of the car. 



140 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

These cars remained in use for several years. A short 
time after steam became the motive power they were 
abandoned as the smoke and sparks from the engine made 
it impossible for passengers to ride with comfort on top of 
the cars. 

One of the first rules issued to the collectors under date 
of February 6, 1834, reads: "You are hereby informed 
that the proprietors or agents of cars will not be allowed 
to use two horses abreast upon the Columbia and Phila- 
delphia Railway. This method of propelling cars is in- 
jurious to the railway and you will therefore consider it a 
part of your duty to enforce the law in case the above rule 
should be violated. Signed, Edw. J. Gray, Engineer." 

From the official report to the Legislature we find that 
from Oct. 18 to Nov. 2, 1832, thirteen hundred and 
twenty-two passengers were transported over the road. 

The Paoli now became the terminus of the Pittsburg 
stage coaches, the travelers being taken to and from Phila- 
delphia on the horse cars on the railroad; this lasted but 
for a short time as, on account of the rivarly between the 
two brothers, it was found necessary by the proprietors 
of the coach line to remove their terminus to the Green 
Tree tavern, about one mile further west. Turnouts were 
located at convenient points and "half-way posts" were 
planted between every two turnouts, the regulation being 
that when two cars from opposite directions came on the 
section the car passing the half-way post first had the right 
of way, the other cars on the section having to hitch their 
horses to the rear end of the car and retrace their steps 
and pull on to the next turnout. This matter gave rise to 
considerable trouble between the opposing drivers, and in 
November, 1834, caused a serious accident to two passen- 
ger cars, just west of Paoli. It was about noon when two 



A Collision on the Railway. 141 

cars were approaching each other, with great speed on the 
same tracks, the post being between them. As they ap- 
proached that point, the horses were lashed for the victory, 
and though as they approached each other, the brakes were 
put down, it was impossible to stop them. The horses 
sprang aside and the cars came together with tremendous 
force, breaking in their fronts and strongest timbers, 
producing the utmost consternation and distress among 
the passengers, and seriously wounding such as were most 
exposed. One gentleman sitting on the driver's seat re- 
ceived the opposite car against his knee, and was probably 
seriously hurt. The Rev. Dr. Neil received a violent blow 
upon his head, which seriously affected him through the 
day. The wounded passengers were taken to Philadel- 
phia in another car. 

Although the building of the railroad eventually had a 
disastrous effect upon the turnpike hostelries, it was differ- 
ent with the Paoli ; the tact and influence of General Evans 
was exerted to so great an extent, as to make the inn one of 
the most important stopping places on the new highway; 
as well as having the office of the first toll collector west 
of Philadelphia located here. This building, still stand- 
ing, is the house just east of the railroad bridge, directly 
back of the present Paoli station. Consequently at the 
meeting of the Canal Commissioners held at Harrisburg, 
March 12, 1834, "Enoch Davis was unanimously ap- 
pointed collector upon the Columbia railway at the Paoli " ; 
further ordered that he shall be allowed fifty dollars per 
month as a full compensation for his services, and that as 
soon as weigh scales are completed at his office, he perform 
the duties of weigh master, and weigh all burden cars 
using said railway. A postscript on his commission from 

10 



142 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

the Governor reads: "Present me kindly to my friend 
General Evans when you see him." 

From the official "Rates of Toll" we learn that the 
charges for use of the road were : 

On each burden car per mile, i cent o mills. 

do do passenger car per mile, 2 do o do. 

do do baggage car per mile, 2 do O do. 

do on each passenger over 12 years 

of age, transported in a car, of any 

description, per mile, i do o do. 

On each passenger between 6 and 12 

years of age, per mile, o do 5 do. 

All freight was charged at so much per lOOO lbs per 

mile, usually from 5 mills to two cents per mile. 

Davis remained in office until March, 1836, during 
which time the tolls and fines collected by him at Paoli 
amounted to $16,454.73; fines and treble tolls constitute 
quite an item in the above amount. 

John Williams, John Rowan and Isaac Powell were 
successively appointed as " Collectors of tolls and fines " 
for the State at this point. 

It was not long before General Evans constructed a 
private siding at the Paoli and urged his neighbors to use 
the road as a means of taking their products to market. 
Other parties along the line were not slow in following the 
example set by General Evans, and in a short time there 
were over twent}'^ private sidings between the Paoli and 
the inclined plane at Belmont. But after a short trial it 
was found that nothing was more detrimental to the repu- 
tation of the experimental road than this indiscriminate 
use of the highway by the inhabitants residing along the 
line; the multitude of small cars, the horses traveling at a 



Joshua vs. Randall. 143 

degree of speed to suit the driver, soon caused so many 
vexatious delays as to make the road almost useless for 
passenger travel. 

For several years both horse and steam power were used. 
This led to numerous complications, accidents and colli- 
sions, and as the road continued to grow in popularity with 
all parties, it was soon manifest that steam would have to 
supplant horse power at an early date, so the south track 
was relaid with cross ties and T-rails for the use of loco-- 
motives, while the individual cars drawn by horses were 
relegated to the north track with its granite blocks and 
wooden sills. It was not until after 1840 that locomotives 
became the exclusive motive power. 

General Evans, at the first introduction of steam, had 
a wood and water station located on his property near the 
tavern. This was no sooner done than Randall in opposi- 
tion to Joshua erected a large water tank for the use of 
the engines on the railroad just back of his inn the " Gen- 
eral Jackson." This caused the rivalry between the two 
brothers to break out again with all the rancor of old; 
however, Randall's efforts seemed futile as Joshua carried 
the day. 

Wood at that early day was the only fuel used for the 
locomotives. After the establishment of this depot, the 
farmers soon found a lucrative business in supplying the 
State with cord wood during their dull season; the yard 
also gave employment to a number of wood sawyers. 
Queer tales are still current in the vicinity about some old 
stumps and logs which it appears were regularly corded 
over and over again at the expense of the State by the 
favored few who were in the ring. All trains stopped to 
"wood up" as well as to take in water; on such occasions 



144 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

both passengers and crew would go into the inn for lunch 
and refreshments. 

During the latter part of Gen. Evans's time the Paoli 
was also the polling place for the five adjoining town- 
ships, viz. : 

Tredyffrin, Easttown, East Whiteland, Willistown and 
Charlestown. It was not an uncommon occurrence for over 
five hundred persons to be in and about the inn on an elec- 
tion day, while on the day of a grand " Democratic Rally" 
the horses and vehicles could be counted by the hundreds 
and the attendants by the thousands. The American flag 
with its twenty-six stars, used at the Paoli, during the two 
Jackson campaigns was still in good condition not many 
years ago and was unfurled during recent campaigns in 
Tredyffrin. Large sales and vendues were also frequently 
cried at the inn. 

Shortly before the death of General Evans, in 1846, the. 
patronage by way of the railroad Increased to so great an 
extent as to necessitate the erection of a separate barroom 
to accommodate the traveling public. While the inn 
proper became known as a favorite summer resort and 
boarding house, some of Philadelphia's most prominent 
citizens spending the summer there year after year. 

The new building was erected facing the railroad, where 
the Valley road formerly crossed at grade. It had two 
stories and porches in the front and rear; the upper room 
was used for meetings and parties, while the lower room 
was used as a bar and lunch room, the bar extended along 
the south and west side of the room. The latter was 
devoted to the postof?ice and the sale of liquors. The wall 
back of the bar was laid out in three panels with a large 
full length figure of Shakespeare and Milton in the two 
end panels. The counter on the south side was used for 



THE WAYSIDE INNS ON THE LANCASTER ROAD. 




JOHN D. EVANS. 

THE LAST PROPRIETOR OF THE " PAOLI ". 



The Old Bar-room at the Paoli. 145 

lunch and coffee. Whenever a train arrived, at the call 
of the train hands of "all out, five minutes for refresh- 
ments," the passengers would rush to the bar, through 
the four large doors facing the track, until the room was 
packed, but even those within reach of the counter would 
hardly have time to gulp down their coffee and doughnut 
or sandwich before the bell would ring and the train start 
at the command " all aboard," while the passengers were 
left to scramble into the cars with their luncheon in their 
hands as best they were able. 

One of the earliest recollections the writer has of this 
barroom is watching the mechanics while covering the 
floor with a heavy sheet of zinc, fastened down with large 
brass headed nails. The large egg-shaped stove stood in 
a box of sand in the center of the floor, while in a circle 
around the stove there was formed by driving nails 
through large copper cents of the period, in large capitals, 
the well known watchword of " Mad Anthony," " Remem- 
ber Paoli ! " 

When John D. Evans succeeded to the ownership of 
the inn at the death of his father, the activity and bustle at 
the Paoli was probably not equaled at any similar estab- 
lishment in the State. 

Previous to 1836, when steam supplanted the uncertain 
horse-power, the second track had been completed and the 
new road continued to grow in public favor and it soon 
became a part of the system (in fact) of communication 
between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh, in connection with 
the State canals. The boats used on the canals for carry- 
ing both freight and passengers were built in three or four 
sections; these sections were floated on or off the trucks 
at the respective termini of the railroad. It was a curious 
sight to see a locomotive drawing a train of these sections, 



146 JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

the bodies of which were Invariably painted white, while 
the cabin windows were hung with Turkey red curtains 
and could be closed with green slat shutters. 

After the sale of the State Improvements to the Penn- 
sylvania Railroad Co. by the State in 1855, Paoli was 
made the terminus for local trains, an engine house and 
turntable were built a little northwest of the station for 
the purpose of turning an entire train. 

The cottage resident who now goes dally over the pres- 
ent magnificent road on the Paoli or Bryn Mawr express 
In a little over thirty minutes, from Paoli to the city, can 
little picture to himself the first local trains, or how we 
rejoiced at the two hour schedule to and from the city, 
and when shortly after the war the time from 31st and 
Market to Paoli was reduced to one and a half hours, we 
thought the utmost rate of speed had been attained; also 
how some of the more timid passengers shook their heads 
and complained to the conductors about the reckless speed 
of the two Paoli trains as they would swing around the 
old double curves between the Eagle and Paoli. When 
chain brakes were first tried on the locomotives In 1870, 
even some of the brakemen refused to go on the trains so 
equipped and were transferred to other trains, where the 
*' Iron " was yet twisted by hand. The early commutation 
ticket was a somewhat different affair from the present 
handy three months' folder. The fact was when bought at 
the first of the month the ticket was a string of coupons 
over four feet long, and the coupon was no good unless 
detached by the conductor. 

One of the best known characters usually to be found 
at the Paoli, when not on the local trains, was a half-breed 
Indian "Theodore Plumbly"; he was the first person to 
regularly supply travelers on the road, or residents along 



Theodore Plumbly. iji^y 

the line, with Philadelphia newspapers on the morning 
of the day on which they were published. Plumbly was 
well known to all regular riders. His tall spare figure, 
dark eyes, prominent features and jet black hair always 
worn in a roll turned up over his collar, will be easily 
recalled by anyone who ever saw him. In some things 
he was very eccentric; if he took a dislike to a person no 
money could induce him to supply that person with a paper. 
His feet and hands were exceedingly small, and he was 
known far and near for his agility. The writer has fre- 
quently seen him jump on or off an express train while 
going at full speed around the old curve at Paoli; he 
would seem to leap up in the air before alighting on his 
feet; frequently he would have a large bundle of papers 
under his arm at the time. Plumbly was also an expert 
runner; his boast was that he could beat any horse into 
the city from Paoli. If he missed a morning train, which 
was frequently the case, more especially on Sundays, he 
would think nothing of starting up the pike, deliver his 
papers occasionally as far as Downingtown, and trot back 
to the Paoli, where he would spend the balance of the 
afternoon. Plumbly died October 29, 1878. 

During the Centennial year the old inn yard and stables 
were once more crowded, more so than they had been for 
many a year. On some days there would be almost two hun- 
dred vehicles left there. Still nothing worthy of special men- 
tion occurred at the Paoli until the week following Sunday, 
July 22, 1877, when the railroad riots broke out in Pitts- 
burgh. A number of hands were working on the road at 
this point, and threats were soon made against the com- 
pany's property. However, the firm action and counsels of 
a few prominent residents together with the encampment 
of the "Washington Troop" in the vicinity nipped the 



148 JV ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

Incipient riot in the bud. On September 21 of this year the 
centennial anniversary of the massacre took place on the 
grounds. The residents of Tredyffrin and Easttown 
assembled at the inn in the morning and marched to the 
grounds. The Easttown deputation was mounted and 
carried a banner inscribed " Easttown, the birthplace of 
Gen. Wayne." 

Soon afterwards the roadbed of the railway was changed 
further to the north, where it now is. This cut the old 
inn as well as the barroom and eating station off from 
the road. A new station was built below the signal 
tower, and the grade of the Valley road raised so as to 
cross the tracks by a bridge and thus obviate the former 
dangerous grade crossing. 

Shortly after these changes were made, John D. Evans 
removed to the old Jackson or Evenson property. He lived 
here until his death, June 6, 1883. In 1881 he sold the 
balance of the tract containing the old Paoli and 350 acres 
to a party of gentlemen from Philadelphia, known as the 
" Paoli Improvement Company," by whom the tract was 
laid out into building lots and advertised for sale. 

The old inn after an existence of over a century as a 
favorite public house of entertainment for man and beast, 
noted far and wide for its good cheer, was now remodeled 
and the old inn-yard fenced in to make it answer for a 
so-called fashionable resort of the present day. 

However, none of the parties who have engaged in the 
venture, have been able to make a paying success out of the 
new departure, and the old inn at the present writing 
(1886) is closed, without an occupant, and in place of the 
former scenes of life and activity, quiet and desolation now 
reign supreme; the closed house and the deserted grounds, 
repelling rather than attracting the passer by. Whether 



" Remeviher Paoli." 149 

a tenant will be found who will succeed in even temporarily 
galvanizing the old hostelry back into life is a question 
that time alone can tell; but it is exceedingly doubtful if 
anything approximating the past reputation of the old 
Paoli will ever be reached under the present regime.^ 

The inn property has also changed ownership as well as 
landlords several times since the sale to the Improvement 
Company. 

Since the turnpike has again been put in first-class con- 
dition, and is now known as Lancaster avenue from Phila- 
delphia to Paoli, Paoli had become the goal of the wheel- 
men's club, and during the time that bicycling was in vogue 
there were often over fifty "wheels" of all kinds and con- 
struction to be seen leaning against the fence now enclosing 
the old tavern yard, while the owners were regaling them- 
selves in or about the old farm house between the inn and 
the present railroad station previous to their spin back to 
the city along the smooth road leading through the numer- 
ous suburban hamlets which now line that thoroughfare. 

2 A few years later the old landmark was destroyed by fire. 






THE ''GREEN TREE" IN WILLISTOWN 
TOWNSHIP. 




m 



FEW days after the occur- 
rence chronicled In the pre- 
vious chapter on the old " Ship," 
the sun printer armed with note 
book and sharpened pencils In ad- 
dition to some specimen blue 
prints of familiar landmarks on 
the old turnpike, sought out the 
old resident. He of the "Old 
HIckor}' Club " who a few days 
ago had so kindly offered to shake 
out the folds of his memory, 
sweep away the cobwebs of time, 
thus lifting the veil from the past and conjure up scenes of 
the bygone time as recollected by him, vague, shadowy 
and oft Incoherent though they might be, still would prove 
as instructive and interesting a revelation to the inquisitive 
quasi historian as a lantern journey through a foreign clime 
does to the studious schoolboy. 

On entering the humble abode the writer at once saw 

150 



The Old Hickory Club. 151 

and felt that he was welcome. Before his footstep had 
crossed the sill he was met by his loquacious acquaintance 
with a hearty "Why, how do you do Mister; glad to see 
you agin; come right in; feared I talked you so tired the 
other day that you wouldn't want to meet me again, but 
walk right in; have a glass of whisky; no; well it's true, 
'tisn't like the widow Evans' used to be, but it's the best I 
can get around here. Miranda, come here a minute. 
This is the picture man I was telling you about taking pic- 
tures of the old taverns on the pike. Miranda is my wife, 
Mister. Her father used to be a teamster on the old road 
and made many a trip between Columbia and Philadelphia. 
He used to haul flour one way and store goods the other." 
With this introduction the wife approached and greeted 
the visitor: "Yes, the old man has been telling me about 
you ; I scolded him for telling such things to strangers and 
told him he ought to know better, but he is getting old and 
likes to talk. He keeps saying ' the times is all wrong ' ; 
that if the ' Old Hickory Club ' was still about, with plenty 
of old time whisky, things would be different, but. Mister, 
don't get offended at anything he says; he is a good man, 
if he is old; and still votes for Jackson, as he says, at every 
election. He can't get Old Hickory out of his head. 
Why when the war broke out in '61 he came home one day 
and says: ' Mirandy, I've gone and 'listed.' Good 
gracious, says I, are you gone crazy as old as you are. 
'Well,' says he, 'you recollect the Old Hickory Club I 
belonged to afore we was married; well our motto was 
Andy Jackson's orders : ' The Union must and shall be 
preserved.' So away he went, the Regiment was the 97th; 
you've heard of it, I suppose; it was the Chester county 
regiment. Well he came home with what was left of 
them, but he was pretty well used up." Here the husband 



152 JV ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

interrupted his wife and told her she had better not talk 
so much. In the meantime the amateur had taken out his 
blue prints, and handed them to both Miranda and her 
husband, who carefully examined them, holding the views 
at arm's length to suit the focus of his failing eyes, while 
his wife wiped and adjusted her spectacles. After a few 
seconds he broke the silence: " So they are the pictures you 
took the other day; well, if the widow Evans or any of the 
jolly stage drivers, who used to stop there, was to come 
back and see this, they would never know it for the old 
' Ship.' The picture is all right, Mister, as it is now, but 
not as it used to be. Mirandy, go tend to your dinner. 
Now, Mister, we are alone. These women will talk, 
seems to come natural to them; they will talk, they can't 
help it. How long have our folks lived around here? 
Well, Mister, let me see. I can't exactly tell; but my 
grandfather's father was out with Colonel Bouquet again 
the French; my grandfather was under Colonel Humpton 
at Paoli, and was drilled by General Steuben at Valley 
Forge ; know where that is, I reckon. I suppose you heard 
of the Paoli fight, haven't ye? Well the old man got off; 
hid in the swamp all night, but reported in Downingtown 
before noon the next day. Did I ever hear him tell about 
that night? No, he was dead before I was born, but 
' pap ' often told us boys all about it, but it's so long ago I 
almost forget. You would like to know what I heard. 
Well, I will try and think about it some time. Excuse me. 
Mister, ain't you dry?" "No." "Well, I am." On 
the old man's return, after a few moments absence, he con- 
tinued: "My father fought in 18 12 under Colonel Crom- 
well Pearce; ever heard of him? Well, he is buried over 
there in the valley. He was a great man in the county 
when I was a boy, and many a time I heard ' pap ' and the 
Colonel talking over about old times, when I was a boy. 



Cones toga and Pitt Teams. 153 

"Mirandy; well, her folks was Welsh. A whole ship- 
load of first cousins came over all at one time way back 
in Penn's time. Her father used to team along the pike, 
as I told you afore. I often heard him say, that after the 
war of 18 12 there were several thousand wagons continu- 
ally on the road between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh. 
' Pitt Teams' we called them for short; they were longer 
and heavier than the Conestogas that went to Columbia. 
Most of these ' Pitt Teams ' were drawn by six or eight 
horses and were loaded up from sixty to eighty hundred 
weight, and they traveled from 18 to 22 miles a day, 
making the round trip, between Philadelphia and Pitts- 
burgh, in from 30 to 35 days. They always went in 
squads of half a dozen to thirty in a string, and kept com- 
pany for the whole distance ; this was for protection as well 
as company, as highwaymen and thieves were not the least 
fear of the plodding teamster. 

"These 'strings,' as they were called, had their regular 
' stands ' to stay over night, and it was not an unusual sight 
for fifty to sixty of these teams to meet at one stand for 
rest. 

" The drivers carried a mattress and quilt or blanket, 
and after they had fed themselves, and their horses, and 
drunk their usual potation of whiskey, they spread the mat- 
tress on the floor of the barroom, and went to sleep amid 
the turmoil of the barroom; such was the only bed on 
which many of these hardy teamsters slept from one year's 
end to another, never undressing, except merely to take 
off their coats, it was an exception for any of this class to 
change any part of his clothing from one end of the journey 
to the other. So you see. Mister, we are native stock, both 
of us — Miranda and I. Hope you are not getting out of 
patience. Well, speaking about the pike above Paoli, did 



154 JV ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

you ever hear of the 'Green Tree'? Well, after leaving 
Paoli, now as you come up the pike, the first improvement 
you come to is a little church near the top of the hill. It 
is the 'Mission of the Good Samaritan at Paoli.' This 
church was built in the centennial year by an old gentleman, 
as a memorial for his wife, who for some twenty years 
boarded at the ' Paoli.' A little further on at the cross- 
roads, you see an old shop. This used to be the Thomas' 
shops; were built in 1812 and did a big business in turnpike 
days. Thomas, who built them, was no relation to the 
Valley Thomas', but came from Canada, with the ' sol- 
diers ' and settled here. 

"A little further west, at the next road crossing near the 
19th milestone, is where the ' Green Tree ' stood. It is in 
Willistown township and here the Gnibb's mill road crosses 
the turnpike, the latter having ascended the South Valley 
hill, commences to dip into the ' Great Valley.' Why do 
they call it the Great Valley? Well, I asked that once 
when I was a schoolboy and the master told me the right 
name was the ' Great Limestone Valley,' but the name was 
long, so in the course of time the middle name was dropped 
This explains it; but as I was saying about the 'Green 
Tree,' when I was a youngster that tavern was a busy 
spot." We will here leave the old resident for a short 
time and devote it to the history of the 

Green Tree in Willistown. 

The inn was known as a wagon stand, and In appearance 
was similar to the taverns of the time, viz : two stories 
high, capped by a high attic, porch in front and side, with 
pump and trough in the tavern yard in front of the house 
for the convenience of travelers and drovers. The old inn 
when built shortly after the revolution stood on the old 



A Historic Milestone. 155 

Lancaster road, same as the Blue Ball, Bear and Admiral 
Warren. George King is said to have been the builder 
and host of the first house. He died in 1792. Then 
Isaac King succeeded to the ownership. It was during his 
term that the turnpike was built, and fortunately for the 
tavern keeper the road at this point was laid out to run 
over or near the old roadbed. 

As soon as the new highway was completed Isaac King 
turned the property over to Abram and Joseph King. 
This was in April, 1797. They kept the house jointly 
until April i, 1805, when Joseph King deeded his share 
and interest to Abram. The house had prospered as 
travel increased, and the large tree, with wide-spreading 
branches clothed in full foliage, painted on the swinging 
signboard which hung in its yoke at the top of a high pole, 
became one of the best-known landmarks to the toiler on 
the highway. 

Abram King now enlarged the capacity of the house and 
made many improvements, not the least of which was the 
building of the large farm barn and stables (demolished 
1888). High up in the gable was the legend — A. K. E. 
— 1805. Another curious object about this barn was a 
large oblong cornerstone in the front or south side, high up 
in the wall, just below the eaves. This stone bore the 
legend "24" in antique figures. It was a sandstone, the 
rest of the stones used in the building being the blue lime- 
stone or marble of the Valley. 

This marked stone was nothing more nor less than one 
of the milestones of the first road, which followed the old 
Indian trail, through the wilderness, from the Schuylkill to 
the Brandywine. The inscription 24 meant that it was 
twenty-four miles from the Court House in Philadelphia, 
at Second and Market streets, to that point by way of the 



156 JV ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

public road. The stone, however, did not long remain a 
true prophet to the wayfarer, as, when the Lancaster road 
was ordered to be laid out by the Provincial Council, the 
road was straightened so as to shorten the distance between 
the old stone and the city almost two miles. When after- 
wards the turnpike was constructed, more kinks were taken 
out, and the new stone bore the legend 19 to Phila., which 
was equal to 21 miles to Second and Market Streets. 

So when Abram King built his barn, in 1805, the old 
useless milestone was utilized as a cornerstone, and re- 
mained there, a veritable landmark of the past, unknown 
and forgotten, until just before the barn was demolished, 
when by the merest accident it was discovered, saved from 
the rubbish, and by courtesy of ex-Sheriff Gill, the owner, 
presented to the writer. 

Abram King in 18 16 passed the title to George and 
Joseph King, presumably brothers. A few years later the 
King family, however, seem to have gotten into financial 
difficulty, and the whole property — farm, tavern and all — 
was seized and sold Aug. i, 1820 by Sampson Babb, Esq., 
High Sheriff of Chester County, to Abram Phillips, after 
having been in the possession of the King family about 
sixty years. Before the month of August had expired 
Phillips sold the inn to Henry Coffman, who was of 
German descent, and is said to have been raised over on the 
North Valley Hill. Be this as it may, Henrys Coffman and 
his wife, Catherine, knew how to keep a hotel, and it was 
not long before the tavern yard was nightly crowded with 
wagoners' teams of all descriptions, while the barroom was 
filled with Pennsylvania Dutch teamsters. The Green 
Tree also became the stopping place for the Mennonites 
and Amish who traveled along the road, as Coffman was 
himself a member of the Mennonite community in the 



THE WAYSIDE INNS ON THE LANCASTER ROAD. 




AYMISH MENNONITES OF LANCASTER COUNTY. 



Pittsburgh Waggoners. 157 

Valleys, and always wore plain clothes with large hooks 
and eyes in place of buttons, after the manner of the more 
strict branch of the Amish. The inn was the first public 
house west of Philadelphia, kept by a "Hooker" Men- 
nonite. This fact alone insured the house a large, if not 
remunerative, patronage. 

Henry Coffman further was an especial favorite with the 
Pittsburgh wagoners, of whose habits mention has already 
been made. 

This hardy class of men brought forth by the times in 
which they lived, formed a clan, as it were, by themselves, 
the same as the Lancaster county Germans, and became par- 
ticularly fitted for their occupation. The majority of this 
class were honest, industrious and trustworthy, and noted 
for their endurance; although all were addicted to the con- 
stant use of whiskey, they rarely became under its baneful 
Influence, so as to Interfere with their vocation. 

There were exceptions to this rule, however, examples 
of which were given in previous articles on the old inns. 

The regular Pittsburgh wagoners would rise early to 
feed and clean their horses. As soon as they had their 
breakfast and harnessed their horses they would start on 
their journey and would not stop to feed themselves or their 
teams until they arrived at the wagon stand, which was to 
form the end of their day's route, the only exception or 
break to their tiresome tour being their stops at the wayside 
inns to water their horses and liquor themselves. 

They ate but two regular meals a day, for each of which 
they paid twenty-two cents. Their horses were fed oats 
and rye, which they purchased from the tavern keeper at a 
few cents advance on the original cost. The first cost of 
their meals was more than the tavern keeper received from 
them, consequently the only profit the host of a wagon 



158 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

stand made from his customers was that which arose from 
the sale of his whiskey and the manure in his yard. Many 
of these teams perhaps never saw the inside of a barn or 
shed during their lives. 

At night the harness was taken off and laid on the guide 
pole connecting the two axletrees and protruding out back 
of the wagon. The horses were tied to different parts 
of the wagon and fed from feed troughs, which were car- 
ried for that purpose on the journey, and no matter how 
inclement the weather the poor beasts were forced to stand 
in the open air without shelter and at the mercy of the 
elements. 

Frequently kind-hearted travelers, strangers to the cus- 
toms of the turnpike, would ask a wagoner why he did 
not put his horses into the stable during the storm? The 
reply would always be "that they do better by standing 
out," and in proof of the truth of their assertion they 
would challenge their questioner to show them a single 
poor horse among the many thousands that were harnessed 
in the " Pitt Teams" on the turnpike. 

The wages of these teamsters was usually from eight 
to ten dollars a month. Small as this amount seems at the 
present day, yet by thrift and frugality they were able to 
save enough out of this pittance to purchase within a year 
or two a wagon and a team of their own. 

There were also cases where some of these Avagoners 
became quite wealthy and had a dozen or more teams on 
the road. In some cases they would start their teams out 
in a string, while they would accompany them on horseback 
and after delivering their freight in Pittsburgh would pur- 
chase flour and whisky, load their teams, transport it East 
and sell the cargo on their own account. 

Nothing of particular interest occurred during the next 



The State Railroad. 159 

few years of Henry Coffman's regime, until about 1826, 
when the new State Railroad from Philadelphia to Colum- 
bia was projected. At first came vague rumors. These 
were soon followed by Information that the new enterprise 
was a fact. Then came the corps of engineers under the 
immediate supervision of Samuel Haines, the City Sur- 
veyor of Philadelphia. Coffman opposed and denounced 
the new project. Still, as the road as first laid out did not 
come near the " Green Tree," his opposition was expended 
in ridiculing the enterprise In choice Pennsylvania Dutch 
whenever the opportunity offered. 

It may be of interest to some of the present residents of 
the vicinity to know where the surveys of the railroad were 
originally run, viz : 

From the summit near the White Horse Inn, in West 
Whiteland, the line crossed the valley in a southern direc- 
tion towards Kennard's School House (near the Steam- 
boat Inn). It then continued on the north side of the 
turnpike to the ridge near the Chester County Academy; 
here the line crossed the turnpike and kept to the south 
of it along the face of South Valley Hill past the Warren, 
until the toll-gate near the 20th milestone was reached; 
this was just east of the Warren Tavern, then the line 
crossed the turnpike, and continued on the course until 
about north of the Paoll, when the line was run down the 
Valley by way of Davis' Tavern (Howellville) and thence 
through a ravine above the Spread Eagle Tavern, five 
miles below the Green Tree. As will be seen had this route 
been adopted It would have left all the tavern stands be- 
tween the Warren and Spread Eagle isolated — cut off 
from the highways of travel. 

The means taken by General Evans to induce the engi- 
neers to change this route, have been given in a previous 



l6o IFayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

article. John Wilson, chief engineer, in his report to the 
Canal Commissioners, gives as a reason for changing the 
route to where it was afterwards built "we proceeded with 
the location of the railway eastward, in a direction toward 
the Green Tree Tavern, for the purpose of keeping open 
the ridge dividing the waters of the ' Valley ' and Crum 
Creek, etc." In his estimate he mentions the sixty first 
mile from Columbia as being traced along the summit of 
the valley ridge on favorable ground, crossing one small 
ravine near " Dempsey's," the line passing between the 
Green Tree tavern and barn, the mile ending on the north 
edge of the turnpike, etc. 

This was afterward modified so the line was just north 
of the inn. The turnpike at the west end of the tavern 
lot curved sharply to the north in its course down the slope 
of the valley hill, crossing the railroad at grade. This 
crossing in after years proved to be one of the most dan- 
gerous in the county. 

When Coffman first heard of this contemplated change 
of route, he gave the rumor no credence, but when the 
engineer corps came and finally located the route between 
the house and bam, and entangled the lines so that it was 
hard to tell which was the railroad or the turnpike, his anger 
now knew no bounds. He declared that the new Riegle- 
weg was merely a scheme of the " Teufel " which had been 
conceived and hatched out in the Freemasons Lodges ; it is 
almost needless to say that our Pennsylvania German was 
in thorough accord with the most radical " Anti " in the 
county. He lost no opportunity to vent his spleen against 
both institutions, which he always coupled together; he 
went so far as to refuse under any circumstances to harbor 
or shelter at his house any one connected with the new State 
improvement, and woe to the luckless railroad man, of 



'' Hooker Dutch." i6i 

whatever grade, who through ignorance or foolhardiness 
entered the house in quest of the coveted glass of whiskey. 
If Coffman saw and recognized the visitor the latter was 
sure to get a torrent of abuse in choice "Hooker Dutch" 
about " Riegelwegs or Teufels bahn " in general, himself 
in particular, and a tirade ending with an order to get 
" Schnell araus," but no whiskey. 

Still the innkeeper kept consoling himself with the idea 
that, on account of his opposition to the improvement, the 
new road would never be built, however, as the work 
progressed his phlegmatic Teuton blood was still further 
aroused, so much so that he solemnly declared that if the 
Teufels bahn was built he would sell out and go away, no 
matter what became of the wagoners or the country. Not- 
withstanding Coffman's threats the contractors laid their 
wooden sills and Iron plates. The innkeeper, seeing that 
his opposition amounted to nothing, put his threat into 
execution and sold the property early in 1832 to Jonathan 
Jones, of Honeybrook, late High Sheriff, 1825-8, who took 
possession April ist, 1832. It is said that Catherine Coff- 
man was also of a thrifty turn and when it came to her 
time to sign the title papers absolutely refused to attach 
her signature unless a fine black silk dress was first given 
her, exclusive of the consideration mentioned in the deed. 

A peculiarity about the Green Tree, during Coffman's 
ownership, was the large number of fine chickens he raised. 
These fowls were his stand-by in case guests arrived who 
wanted a meal different from the usual wagoner's fare. 
In such a case he would take a handful of corn, go out in 
the tavern yard, call his chickens around him, and, throw- 
ing them a few grains of corn, he would dexterously knock 
over with the short cane he usually carried as many of the 
fowls as were wanted for the meal. 



i62 JVaysidc Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

After his retirement from the inn he bought and moved 
on a farm in East Whiteland, near the White Horse 
tavern, v.here he lived until he died. 

With the advent of Jonathan Jones as host of the 
" Green Tree " the old tavern stand entered upon a new 
period of popularity. The house under the new proprie- 
tor, who for several years had presided over the well 
known " Boot " in Goshen, lost none of its renown as a 
wagon stand, while in his attitude towards the new rail- 
road, which was now nearing completion, Jones from the 
first adopted a policy diametrically opposite to that pur- 
sued by his predecessor, and calculated to attract the 
patronage of those who were engaged in the new enter- 
prise. It was not long before the cars were run on the 
new road. The passenger cars were small concerns, some- 
what like a stage coach, and were drawn by two horses 
tandem, travelling between the rails. They were known 
as "fire-flies" on account of their bright red color. At 
first they were run as far as the " Gen. Paoli," where the 
passengers were transferred to the regular stage coach. 
This arrangement was no sooner started than the old 
wrangle broke out between the two rival Evans' at Paoli. 
The result of this was that the terminus of the new road 
was changed as speedily as possible to the Green Tree, a 
turntable put in, and the house made the transfer station 
of the mail and passengers for the time being. 

The house for some time previous had been the termi- 
nus of the West Chester Railroad. William Williamson, 
the Secretary of the last named road, under date of Octo- 
ber 23d, 1832, gave public notice that "until further 
notice the cars would leave West Chester at 8 a. m. and 2 
p. m., and in return leave the house of Jonathan Jones at 
the Green Tree tavern at 10 a. m. and 4 p. m. Further 



Green Tree Station. 163 

that as soon as the Pennsylvania Railroad is finished the 
trains will be run to Paoli, leaving 20 minutes sooner." 
How, in the course of time, the road grew in the popular 
favor, and the turnpike travel declined, how the uncertain 
horse power was gradually superseded by steam power, 
after the successful trip of the "Black Hawk," April 16, 
1834, has been set forth in a previous chapter, and need 
not be retold here. The first passenger cars carried pas- 
sengers on the outside as well as Inside, and the primi- 
tive locomotive drew three or four of these small cars 
in a train. The first serious accident which happened on 
a steam train in the vicinity occurred July 11, 1835. As 
the train was a short distance from Paoli, and passing 
under an apple tree, Patrick Daily, an outside passenger, 
stood up and reached out for an apple. An overhanging 
limb knocked his hat off, and In his efforts to regain the 
hat, lost his balance and fell under the wheels of the car, 
the whole train passing over his right leg. Daily was at 
once carried to a neighboring house and a doctor summoned, 
who on his arrival was so appalled at the sight of the muti- 
lated limb that he could do nothing for the sufferer but 
advise his removal to the Pennsylvania Hospital, which 
was done as soon as a car could be gotten ready for the 
purpose. It is needless to say that in the meantime the 
patient bled to death. 

From the completion of the road by the favorable loca- 
tion of the Inn, together with the tact of Jones, the Green 
Tree from the start became a regular stopping station for 
trains and travelers over the new road. 

Jonathan Jones, was also an enthusiastic Free Mason, 
who had come through an anti-Masonic storm unscathed, 
and it may not be amiss here to state that his "clothing" 
and jewels are to the present day prized as precious heir- 



164 JF ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

looms by his descendants. The house soon became the 
rallying point for the brethren of the vicinity; the meetings 
were held in an upper room of the old inn, and by a curious 
coincidence each visitor before he entered would give three 
low, distinct knocks on the door which were answered from 
within. While on the table there would be a copy of Holy 
Writ, and three lighted candles — always sure to be in the 
same position. It also happened that a plain Masonic 
emblem could be seen lying on the sacred volume; possibly 
this happened by accident. The jewel might have fallen 
out of the pocket of some one present as he reached over 
the table to snuff one of the candles. Be this as it may, on 
these occasions the proscribed emblems were always to be 
found resting on the open pages. 

Thus these few homeless brethren, who though reviled 
and persecuted, still kept alive some show of an organiza- 
tion, true to the precepts of the ancient Order. Here, 
under this friendly roof, they met unsuspected and in 
safety; while oft perhaps in the bar below a parcel of 
rabid "Anti's" between their cups and brawls, would be 
denouncing the Order in general, breathing vengeance to 
all its votaries, and congratulating themselves that the 
hated institution had been broken up and scattered; little 
thinking that above them under the same roof tree, there 
were brethren good and true, who met for the purpose of 
keeping alive the traditions and teachings of the maligned 
Order, and anxiously longing for the time to come when 
the clouds of intolerance would be dispelled, and the bright 
sun of charity again shed its benign light over our land, 
and they be enabled to once more organize as a Lodge. 

Among the curious characters, who were wont to fre- 
quent the vicinity at this time, none was more remarkable 
than old Sergeant Andrew Wallace. He was a frequent 



Sergeant Wallace. 165 

visitor at the Paoli and after Jones came in possession of 
the Green Tree, made this Inn his chief stopping place. Wal- 
lace was a veteran of the Revolution, and at that time 
(1833) was in the one hundred and fourth year of his 
age. He was married and had two children living, the 
youngest of which was then fourteen years old. The old 
sergeant had been a member of Captain Church's Com- 
pany, in the Fourth Pennsylvania Regiment, commanded 
by Colonel Anthony Wayne, and participated in the battle 
of Brandywine, when Lafayette was wounded in that en- 
gagement. It was Sergeant Wallace, who rescued him 
from his perilous situation, and carried him off the field 
on his back for a distance of two miles to the house of a 
friend, where the illustrious Frenchman rested in safety. 

The history of this remarkable man reads almost like a 
romance. Born in Scotland, March 14, 1730, he arrived 
in this country in 1752, after having participated, young 
as he was in the Batle of Culloden, on the side of the 
Stewarts. Shortly after his arrival in this country he 
enlisted at the breaking out of the French and Indian war 
in Captain Hannum's Company, at Chester. He was ap- 
pointed at first as Orderly Sergeant. The company be- 
came part of the regular force under Colonel Dark, of 
Virginia, in General Forbes' division of Braddock's Army, 
but at the defeat of the latter his division was not in action. 

At the very commencement of the Revolution Wallace 
enlisted, as above stated, in Wayne's Battalion, was again 
appointed to his former position as Sergeant, and served 
in that position until the end of the war. He was present 
at "Three Rivers," at Brandywine, and the affair at Paoli, 
where he had a narrow escape, and In after years he would 
never tire in relating how, when all was lost, that he 
jumped into a cluster of chestnut sprouts right in the midst 



l66 JVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

of the British and Hessians and remained there In safety 
until the danger was over. The adventure did not deter 
him from at once reporting to his officer the next morning, 
and at the Battle of Germantown we find him In the midst 
of the affray. He passed through the encampment at 
Valley Forge, and the battle of Monmouth; but a few 
days later, while out on a scout, was taken prisoner to- 
gether with Captain Sealery and eighteen comrades. For- 
tunately for him he was soon exchanged and he rejoined 
his command in time to volunteer and lead one wing of the 
" forlorn hope " in the storming of Stony Point. After- 
wards he marched to South Carolina with his command 
and was present at the battles of Cowpens, Eutaw and 
Camden; also at the closing scene at Yorktown. 

In 1785, he again enlisted at New Brunswick, New 
Jersey, under Captain Lane, to join Col, Harmer against 
the Mohawks. The troops, however, were discharged 
without seeing any service. A year later he again enlisted 
in the regular army and served on the Western frontier for 
three years. In the year 1791, he enlisted in Captain 
Doyle's company at Philadelphia, w^hich was destined to 
form part of the ill fated command of General St. Clair 
against the Indians In the Western country. He was pres- 
ent at the dreadful slaughter which afterwards took place, 
and was one of the few who escaped the fury of the sav- 
ages, and wounded and crippled as he was he made his way 
back to civilization to tell the tale of the disaster. In the 
affray he was shot in the arm, from the effects of which he 
never entirely recovered. This, however, did not deter 
him from remaining in the army, and in 1794 we find him 
once more under his old commander. General Wayne, 
fighting the savages on the banks of the Miami. 

After the subjugation of the savages he served five years 



THE WAYSIDE INNS ON THE LANCASTER ROAD. 




SERGEANT ANDREW WALLACE. 

AGED 104 YEARS ( 181 i • 

THE LAST SURVIVOR OF THE PAOLI MASSACRE. 



Sergeant JVallace. 167 

in the United States Legion under Captain Pike. When this 
organization dissolved he went into Captain Schuyler's 
Company, Second Regiment, U. S. A. and marched with 
his regiment to New Orleans in 18 12, and was finally dis- 
charged from the service in 18 13 at the age of eighty years 
by General Wade Hampton, on account of debility, after 
almost 60 years of continuous service against the enemies of 
his adopted country. And now in his old age, after living 
long beyond the alloted period of life, we find the old 
veteran going from tavern to tavern selling pictures of 
himself to help eke out an existence for himself, wife 
and children. It is true he received a pension of twenty- 
six cents per day from the Government. How far that 
went to support the old veteran, palsy stricken and 
crippled as he was, need not be told. Colonel Isaac 
Wayne, a son of the General, together with other resi- 
dents, however, saw that he did not want. The old man 
was always throughout his whole life temperate, steady, 
and regular; always avoiding excesses of any kind. By 
one of the identical pictures bought of him In person at 
the old inn, in 1833 and now before the writer, one would 
hardly think that the original was over seventy years of 
age, and was a veteran of the Revolution. His counte- 
nance even at his great age had a benign and intelligent 
expression, and although as before stated his body was 
continually shaken up with the palsy, and his right arm was 
somewhat crooked and stiff, he was in full possession of 
his mental faculties, with his mind and memory bright and 
clear. He was then the last survivor of all who were in 
the affair at Paoll. And on more than one occasion a 
party was made up at the inn to visit the battlefield In com- 
pany with the old veteran, when he with pride would point 
out to one of the chestnut oak sprouts, which still remained 



1 68 JF ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

but then grown to a clump of trees of considerable girth 
and size. He would also point out to the curious or in- 
quisitive visitor the spot where his brother was killed by 
the cruel foe on that memorable night. Wallace died, 
January 27, 1835. 

Politically the Green Tree became a rallying point for 
the Whigs, and became known as a "Whig House," and 
in consequence became the gathering place for many of 
that party, who heretofore had patronized the Paoli, the 
latter house under General Joshua Evans being the great 
rallying point for the Democracy. The polls of five 
townships, comprising what was then known as the " Paoli 
District" were held there. After the advent of Jonathan 
Jones at the Green Tree a determined effort was made to 
break up the Democratic stronghold at the Paoli. Ritner 
was elected Governor and the Anti-Masonic craze had 
about run its course, and the dismemberment of the district, 
commenced in 1823 by the separation of Charlestown 
township into an independent election district, was fol- 
lowed in 1838 by cutting off East Whiteland township, 
which now became the 3 2d district, with the polls at the 
General Wayne Inn, on the turnpike, near the 22d mile- 
stone. Willistown was constituted the 35th district in 
1839, with the polling place at the house of John Kimes, 
Sugartown. Easttown followed in 1840, and became the 
39th district, with the voting place at the " Leopard," and 
to complete the matter three years later the polls at Tre- 
dyffrin were moved to New Centreville, in the Great Val- 
ley. Thus ended the political prestige of the Paoli. 

For the next few years nothing of special importance 
took place until the year 1840. In the eight years since 
Jones came into possession of the old hostelry, the wooden 
sills on the railroad had been replaced by iron rails resting 



The ''Tree." 169 

on wooden sleepers, the south track completed and steam 
motive power Introduced. These improvements, however, 
were not an Immediate success, and for a time the tracks 
were used both for steam and horse cars, an arrangement 
which led to endless contention between the rival interests. 
An account of some of the troubles of this early steam 
transportation will be given In a subsequent sketch. Even- 
tually steam won the victory, when horse power was finally 
abolished. The travel on the turnpike also rapidly de- 
clined. Still, as before stated, the Tree was compensated 
by the patronage received from the new highway. About 
this time ( 1836) , Jonathan Jones was succeeded by his son 
Jacob H. Jones, who proved as popular as his father had been 
with the patrons of the house. This state of affairs lasted 
until Wednesday, March 4, 1840, when the house was dis- 
covered to be on fire, it having caught from a spark from 
a passing locomotive, wood then being used exclusively as 
fuel and there being no provision for catching the flying 
sparks. The fire commenced on the roof, and although 
discovered in its earliest stage and the alarm promptly 
given, the fire was so rapid that before a ladder could be 
procured and mounted the fire was beyond extinguishment. 
In a short time there was nothing left standing but the 
blackened walls and smouldering ruins of the old hostelry. 
It was with great difficulty that the large barn and stables 
were saved from destruction, as the strong wind prevalent 
at the time carried the flames Immediately towards them. 
The loss was estimated to be over $5000, there being no 
insurance. Considerable furniture was removed to a place 
of safety, but much of it In a greatly injured condition. In 
connection with this matter a curious anecdote was long 
prevalent in the neighborhood, viz : That among the will- 
ing helpers at the time there was none more active than a 



170 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

couple of the regular habitues of the barroom. At the 
first alarm these two men rushed upstairs and carefully 
carried down several feather beds, then returning threw the 
looking glasses and crockery out of the windows. 

It was a curious coincidence that within that week three 
large fires occurred from sparks from locomotives, It was 
charged, through carelessness on the part of the engineers. 
The first of these was the large tavern barn at the Paoli, 
which then stood about where the present signal tower on 
the railroad stands, the dwelling house at the southwest 
corner of the overhead bridge then being the wagon shed. 
This happened February 26, 1840. This was followed by 
the destruction of the large tavern at Oakland, and finally, 
on March 4, our old landmark, the " Green Tree," in 
Wlllistown, was reduced to ashes. Fires along the line 
of the railroad, caused by sparks from the locomotives, 
became of such frequent occurrence that some of the 
county papers, opposed to the State Administration, boldly 
charged that a tavern or barn was set on fire on purpose 
every night so as to light the road. 

The destruction of the old Inn after half a century of 
usefulness proved a serious loss to the owner; preparations 
were at once made to rebuild the Inn. It was decided, as 
the walls were so solid as to have withstood the devouring 
element, to add an additional story, making it a three story 
building. A temporary barroom was opened in an out- 
building, which had escaped the fire. This was used until 
the new house was completed. It became apparent early 
in the Summer that the annual parade and encampment of 
the military at the Paoli battle ground (not a mile from 
the Green Tree) would surpass anything of a similar 
character In previous years, consequently all efforts were 
strained to have the Inn ready for business early in Septem- 



The Paoli Encampment. 171 

ber. The Green Tree being the nearest public house to 
the grounds, was naturally well patronized on these occa- 
sions by both military and citizens, notwithstanding the 
fact that whiskey could be had at every farm house around 
the camp grounds. The affair, in 1840, was to last three 
days, and companies were expected from Philadelphia as 
well as from the adjoining counties. 

The management of the affairs was entrusted mainly to 
Gen. Edward F. Evans, a brother of the Hon. Joshua 
Evans, of the Paoli. The projected encampment proved 
a great success, both as to the numbers and character of the 
participants, military and civil who were present on the 
occasion, prominent among whom were Governor David 
Rittenhouse Porter. The landlord of the Green Tree was 
not disappointed in his expectations of a rich harvest from 
the visitors to the camp. 

After this spurt of business the new house settled down 
to the regular routine, with nothing but the weekly cattle 
sales and an occasional general vendue to break the m.onot- 
ony. A few years later, Jacob Jones left the house and 
went to Philadelphia, where he maintained his reputation 
as an inn keeper, presiding respectively over the West 
Chester House, on Broad street, the Indian Queen, on 
Fourth street, and the Rubicam House, on Sixth street. 
It was at the latter place that P. T. Barnum boarded 
Tom Thumb and other "freaks" on his first visit to the 
city. During this time the Green Tree was kept by Jona- 
than and Frank Jones. Jacob returned from the city 
about 1 85 1, and again became the landlord, but shortly 
afterwards died. 

Frank Jones for a time then presided over the fortunes 
of the old inn. He was preceded by Samuel Moore as 
tenant of the old tavern stand. 



172 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

March 28, 1867, Jonathan Jones sold the property to 
John Crumley, during whose ownership Lewis J. Thom- 
son and James Beale are said to have kept the bar. The 
passage of the "Local Option Law" in 1873, however, 
closed the bar for two years. In 1874 Crumley sold the 
property, Ex-Sheriff Gill being the purchaser. At the ex- 
piration of the Local Option law the house was relicensed. 
This, however, proved a matter of short duration. When 
the Pennsylvania Railroad straightened its road-bed in 
1877-8 the new centre line was run directly through the 
house, necessitating its removal. The building was shortly 
afterwards demolished and there remains no vestige to re- 
mind the thousands of travelers who daily pass over the 
spot of its former existence. 

Before closing this sketch it will not be amiss to state 
that for a number of years the Green Tree serv^ed as the 
Paoli Post Office. As before stated the Paoll under the 
regime of the Ewms was a great Democratic stronghold. 
When in 1861 the great uprising of the populace took 
place, the post office was at once removed from the Paoli 
to the Green Tree. After the assassination of President 
Lincoln, during Johnson's term, the office was moved back 
to the Paoli; after General Grant's Inauguration the office 
was at once returned to the "Green Tree." In 1880 ap- 
plication was made to the proper officials for the return of 
the office to Paoli, as the place had been sold to an " Im- 
provement Company," and the increasing population 
needed better postal facilities. This was of course op- 
posed by the residents in the vicinity of the "Tree," so 
after considerable discussion the citizens of the latter place 
consented to change the name of the office to " Duffryn 
Mawr." A new post office was then established at Paoli 
station under the time honored name of " Paoli." 




THE "SHIP," IN WEST WHITELAND, 

As Recollected by a Member of the " Old Hickory 

Club." 

©N the afternoon of a bright 
spring day in April twenty- 
jfive years ago an enthusiastic 
amateur photographer, with out- 
fit box in hand and tripod under 
his arm, trudged steadily up the 
turnpike, in West Whiteland, 
from Glen Loch towards Down- 
ingtown, stopped at Ship Lane 
to look at the neat chapel erected 
there. His eyes naturally wan- 
dered to the opposite corner, 
and being of a retrospective 
turn of mind he was mentally 
contrasting the present with the 
past, wondering whether the 
host of the old house, when in the 
height of its popularity, could 
ever have thought that the revolution of time in a few years 
would work changes so great as to leave the then magnifi- 
12 173 




174 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

cent and busy highway deserted and abandoned, and the 
large number of inns by the roadside, houses large, roomy, 
lofty, as they were, the owners trying to make each more at- 
tractive to the travelling public than his competitors, and all 
being hives of activity, now, after the lapse of a few years, 
should no longer be houses of entertainment for man and 
beast, but fenced in from the road, some idle, some used 
as summer boarding houses, a few as private residences, or 
occupied by tenants to prevent the property from falling 
into decay, while others have been torn down or so remod- 
eled that the fact of their having ever been noted public 
houses is not even known to the present generation. \Yhile 
these thoughts were occupying the mind of the amateur 
he mechanically set up his tripod, adjusted his camera and 
prepared to make a negative of what was left of the 
former " Ship Tavern." While his attention was thus 
engaged he had been joined by an elderly man, who had 
been attracted to the spot by the appearance of the pseudo 
artist. In the meantime the cap had been drawn and 
returned, the exposure made and the plates carefully re- 
turned to the holder, when the old man, who from all 
appearances was well on the shady side of the allotted three 
score and ten, addressed the stranger. "Taking pictures 
stranger?" Then continuing, "Do you know that house 
you just took was once on a time a tavern? Yes. Well 
don't forget it was a ' tavern ' not a * wagon stand.' Know 
what a wagon stand is? Well this was the ' Ship.' Stages 
and travelers stopped here. Strangers and travelers used 
to call the house after the old signboard; it swung from 
a yoke on a tall pole and had a big ship painted on it; it 
was a curious old sign, it used to swing and creak so when 
the wind blew at nights some people used to get scared at 
the noise It made, I often heard my grandfather say how, 
long before the revolution the same old sign used to swing 



The Old "Ship'' Tavern. 175 

in front of a tavern on the old Lancaster road beyond 
Downingtown, long before the pike was thought of. Well, 
this tavern-keeper was a Tory, and when after the Battle 
of Brandywine a lot of American soldiers came that way, 
and halting at the house, and not getting a very courteous 
reception from the old Tory, they got mad and before they 
left shot thirteen bullets through the signboard — for bad 
luck as they said to the crusty old Tory. Somehow, after 
that the old house didn't prosper any more like it formerly 
had, so after the pike was built and things got so busy along 
the smooth, hard road, this house was built and called the 
" Ship " and the old sign was brought down and set up 
anew, thirteen holes and all. All houses in that day had 
signboards with pictures on them. This was necessary, 
for many of the teamsters along the road could not read; 
others were Pennsylvania Dutchmen and couldn't under- 
stand English letters, but all knew the pictures and would 
know a house when they came to it. We, however, who 
lived around here, knew the old ' Ship ' for years and years 
only as the 'Widow Evans'.' Queer — how was that? 
Well mistress Susie Evans kept that house for over forty 
years. The first I recollect of her was about 1820, when 
Major Bowen kept the house, and Susie was his wife. 
Well about ten years after that Bowen died, and it was not 
long before his widow married Levi Evans, and they car- 
ried on the house — we all used to know her then as Susie 
Evans — however Levi did not live long, and Susie was 
again left a widow. She still kept the house until she 
died just before the war broke out. That is how the house 
got to be known to everybody as the Widow Evans'. Well, 
after she died the old house ceased to be a tavern, and the 
property was sold to a French family from the city, who I 
hear lately sold it again. Many a night, continued the old 
resident, I spent in that barroom; there was plenty of 



176 IV ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

whiskey about then, we didn't have to tramp all the way to 
Downingtown for it, and such as it is, why 'taint worth 
drinking after you do get it nowadays. But as I was say- 
ing the whiskey, as well as the people, were different then. 
The widow Evans used to get her whiskey from a still over 
by the Springs, I mean the Yellow Springs, over the hill 
there, another lively place when I was a boy. Colonel 
Bowen used to keep the house over there." 

Along about sixty-five years ago Mr. Chambers, the cele- 
brated divine and temperance lecturer, came up from Phil- 
adelphia to deliver a lecture on temperance at Grove, in 
Chester County. He left the train at Oakland Station, 
now Whitford, and before going across he entered the 
hotel at that place and requested Mr. Boyer to give him 
" a strong cup of coffee." A Mrs. Evans, who kept the 
Ship tavern, in the same township, heard of the incident, 
and in presence of some parties she made use of the ex- 
pression that she wished he had come to her with that 
request : " I would have made it strong enough for him." 

This expression of Mrs. Evans reached the ears of Mr. 
Chambers and a few days later in a lecture down at Ever- 
hart's grove in West Chester he made allusion to the 
matter in terms not at all complimentary to Mrs. Evans. 
It so happened that that lady had a goodly number of 
friends in the audience and they took exceptions to his 
remarks and were disposed to make things unpleasant 
for him. 

A correspondent expresses himself on the condition of 
things temperate at that period : 

" You might have thought by the efforts the temperance 
people were making in those days liquor would have been 
wiped from the face of the earth before this. They did 
succeed in wiping it out of the township of West White- 
land so far as licensed hotels were concerned. In speak- 



Rev. John Chambers vs. Mrs. Evans. I'jy 

ing of Mrs. Evans and the Ship, there was no place where 
temperance people would rather go for a good meal than 
at the Ship, for they were sure to get a good, strong cup 
of coffee and plenty of brandy in their mince pie." 

Like everybody else, those good old temperance people 
liked good living, and went where it was to be had. 

*' There were no temperance folks around here then — 
things were different. No matter how much of the 
widow's whiskey I drank, it never gave me a headache the 
next day — but it is different now — the liquor has changed 
and so has the times around here. You see that big house 
yonder on the right. Well, that is Jacob's; and there is 
a large ore-bank and quarry which was worked then, and 
many a load of ore and stone was hauled out of it, to say 
nothing of the many men who were employed there. Then 
after a time they struck several big springs, so they put in 
steam pumps, banked up a field and formed a small lake of 
about twenty acres. You can see it right below the house, 
what is left of it looks like a big earthwork or fort, 
like we built on the Arlington Heights in '6 1 to save Wash- 
ington. Then you see that house just below the old dam? 
That is the old 'Sheaf of Wheat,' or 'Wheat Sheaf,' that 
was a w^agon stand, not a stage tavern — like the ' Ship.' 
But, stranger, the greatest time I remember around here 
was the year I first voted. Andy Jackson was my man, 
and we re-elected him. Old Hickory we called him, and 
our club was the ' Old Hickory Club ' and we met at the 
' Ship.' There were good times around here then. There 
was plenty of good whiskey around here when we met, 
and none of your patent stuff like nowadays neither. I 
lived just below the line in East Whiteland and had to go 
all the way to General Evans' (Paoli) to get my vote in. 
However, there was plenty of fun that election, there was 
no end to it. Almost everybody except we of the ' Old 



178 JFayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

Hickor}^ ' creed was an ' Antl.' Don't know what 1 mean 
by an Anti — well, I might have known that you wouldn't 
know. It came about this way. There were a lot of men, 
or a society, that used to meet around at different taverns 
in West Chester, Downingtown, at the 'Jackson,' below 
Paoli, at ' Filson's,' up in Humphrysville, and at the ' Olive 
Branch,' on the Harrisburg pike. These clubs or meet- 
ings were called Freemasons, and the members were most 
all well-to-do citizens. Well, some men who wanted to 
join them and couldn't, because they were not wanted, got 
mad and called the members ' Cabletows,' and even accused 
them of murdering people. Well, stranger, as these 
Masons took no notice of these things, it only made the 
outsiders madder, and they formed a political party and 
started two papers in the county, one at West Chester by 
Joseph Painter, the other at Coatesville by Dr. Perkins. 
This party called themselves the 'Anti's,' and it was not 
long before they made things hot in the county, and in 
almost no time every man around here excepting us was an 
* Anti ' of some kind. There was — let me see — the ' anti- 
Jacksons,' 'anti-Masons,' 'anti-Republicans,' 'anti-Whigs,' 
'anti-Canals,' 'anti-Taxations' and others, but no matter 
how strong an ' anti ' they were, or how excited or worked 
up they would get, on one point they all agreed with the 
' Old Hickory Club.' What was that? Why that come 
what may there should be no ' anti-whiskey.' But Mister, 
as I was saying, there was a great election. There was no 
end to the fun, even the Lancaster county Dutchmen team- 
ing along the pike got warmed up, and when they would 
pass a Jackson house or see anybody out on the porch they 
would sing 



Roadside Politics. 179 

" * Wart nur dee Irisher 

der Josef Ritner is der mon 
der unser Staat regiren Kon.' 

" Ritner was their candidate for Governor, he was the 
' Boss-Anti.' Our man was George Wolfe. 

"After harvest was over the weather and politics kept 
on getting hotter and hotter — so did the Anti's, and they 
kept threatening things, so in August our County Commit- 
tee met at Gallagherville, up above Downington, and 
formed Vigilance Committees for every township in the 
county. Two of our club were named for West White- 
land, Enos Strickland and John T. Worthington. Never 
heard of them. Well, Mister, I recollect them just as if 
it was last week. The committee was no sooner appointed 
than we got a scare around here that made a good many 
forget all about politics for a time. What was that? 
Why, Mister, It was a new disease to us, they called It 
cholera. At first it didn't scare us; the club met right 
along. We were not afraid, as everybody said that whis- 
key was a sure cure for the new disease, and any one 
who drank plenty of It wouldn't take It. You suppose 
a good many took the cure for fear of the cholera ; you are 
right, stranger. However, one day It broke out down by 
Kunkle's mill, right over there In the Valley — know where 
it is? Yes, well there were eleven taken In two days, and 
nine died, for all the whiskey they drank It didn't help 
them. We stopped our meeting for a while then, but after 
a little, people got over their scare, and the disease left our 
county, and It wasn't long before the fun started up again. 
The Anti's blamed the whole thing upon the Cabletows, 
or Freemasons. Some even blamed the whiskey, others 
allowed It was all the fault of the Jackson men. The 



i8o Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

'Hickory Club,' however, went right on, drank Susie 
Evans' whiskey, and stood up for Jackson, \Yilkins and 
Wolfe. Well, stranger, that puts me in mind of when the 
weather got cooler in the fall. As the time for election 
came nearer, our Congressman, General Joshua Evans, 
got up a great rally at his tavern at Paoli. We had elected 
Wolfe at the October election, and the Anti's were pretty 
sick. I'll never forget that as long as I live. What day 
was it? Why the twenty-seventh of October, 1832. 
Mister, they don't have meetings like this one was any 
more. The General and his brother Edward engineered 
the whole thing that day. They called it the great rally 
of the ' Democracy against the Aristocracy.' Five town- 
ships used to vote at Paoli then, and you should have seen 
how the people flocked to the Paoli on that day. Every 
road and lane that led to the Paoli was alive with men and 
boys in stages, wagons, on horseback and on foot. You 
might a thought the whole county was on the go. But, 
Mister, you should have seen the 'Old Hickor}^ Club' as 
they came down the pike, four abreast. Strickland and 
Worthington, our marshals, were ahead. Then came the 
buglers. Joseph Free was one of them, and he could 
bugle. He bugled for the 'Lafayette Rangers,' — they 
used to meet at the Ship too. What were the Rangers? 
Why I was one of them, they were a soldier company, and 
part of the 143rd Regiment Pennsylvania Militia. George 
Wagonseller used to drill and muster us up at the ' Ship '; 
but, as I was saying, after the buglers came a horseman 
with a brand new American flag, and that flag had twenty- 
six stars on it, remember that, Mister. Then we as had 
horses followed mounted, each rank made up according to 
the color of the horses. Then came a long string of hay 
wagons, dearborns, and the like filled with members who 



A Political Procession. i8i 

didn't have any horses. These wagons were all trimmed 
up with cedar and shellbark boughs, and how we all 
cheered for 'Old Hickory' as we went past the Sheaf, 
Steamboat, Wayne, Warren and the Tree. But, stranger, 
times like these have passed and gone long ago — you will 
never see a turnout like that was now — times is so changed. 
But Mister you should have heard the cheering when we 
come down the pike at Paoli. The General had old 
' Diana ' there, and they fired her off as soon as they saw 
our flag coming over the hill at Thomas' shops. Diana? 
Why that was a big brass cannon and belonged to the Paoli 
Artillerists. When we got down to the State road, you 
should have heard the band at the tavern yard play ' Inde- 
pendence Day has Come ' and ' Yankee Doodle.' They 
don't play tunes like these nowadays. Mister." After a 
short pause, during which the old man seemed to be lost in 
thought, he continued. "There was plenty of whiskey 
there that day, not bottles either, but barrels with spiggots 
in them. ' Here is to Old Hickory,' and ' Down with the 
Aristocrats ' were the toasts and many a one was drunk. 
The whiskey wasn't as good as we got at Susie's, but every- 
body drank as much as they could get of it anyhow. 
Stranger, they don't have meetings like this nowadays. 
Times ain't what they used to be. One thing about this 
rally, however, always struck me as queer when I think 
about it. What was that? Why there wasn't an Anti for 
miles around who was not there, and how they all pitched 
into the Jackson whiskey got me. 

"When election day came around we beat them all and 
re-elected Old Hickory, but times have changed since then. 
Why stranger, many a time I stood right here on this spot 
and counted over fifty ' Pitt teams ' in a string pass me both 
ways, one right after another. ' Pitt teams ' were six- 



1 82 fV ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

horse teams. The wagons had extra broad tires on the 
wheels, some were loaded as heavy as six tons weight, and 
they teamed through to Pittsburgh beyond the mountains. 
They don't make wagons like these now, but as I was say- 
ing times have changed. First they started to build the 
railroad, but they were a long time getting it to work right. 
Then things went from bad to worse. They got loco- 
motives and trains on the railroad, the canal was finished 
from Columbia to the mountains and one of the first things 
they did was to put wheels under the canal boats and haul 
them over the railroad between the inclined planes at 
Columbia and Belmont on the Schuylkill. Why, stranger, 
I have stood here on the pike many a time and seen the 
trains of boats hauled past here — they were freight as well 
as passenger boats — 'packets' they called them. They 
were built in sections, painted white, green shutters to the 
windows outside and Turkey red curtains inside — seems 
curious now. Not long after this, the traffic on the pike 
went down, stages were taken off, teaming was done for, 
tavern after tavern shut up, first the wagon stand, then one 
stage house after another — and here we are to-day, the 
pike full of ruts and holes, abandoned and deserted. The 
widow Evans dead and gone long ago and the ' Ship,' well 
stranger, if any one would have said anything like this 
would ever happen when the ' Hickory Club ' met there — 
well, he would have been taken for a lunatic and put where 
he could do no harm, but times have changed. After things 
got so bad years ago I got disheartened and joined the 
* Battleaxes ' ; then I got into more trouble and left this 
part of the country until last year, when I came back to die. 
(Would I like to have a picture of the old inn? Well 
stranger, replied the old man, you're a stranger to me and 
very clever; I'm obliged to you for being so kind, but I 



Memories of an Old Teamster. 183 

have got no use for It this way, but show me one of the 
'Ships' as it was when the widow Evans kept it. The 
Hickory's met there and drank her whiskey, with the 
never-ending line of teams, stages and droves traveling by 
on the smooth white turnpike, with the old wheelwright 
shop and smithy at the opposite corner (it's a tenant house 
now), where I so often stopped when a boy to watch the 
men at work over the fire on the hearth, and listen to the 
sound of the hammer on the anvil. Let me see a picture 
with the old tree, pump and water trough, the crowds and 
loungers on the porch, and a stage — one of the 'Good 
Intent' or 'Opposition' lines, don't matter which — with 
their four dapple grays drawn up, prancing in the old 
yard. Show me a picture, stranger, like this. Put it up 
at vendue and I will bid until I get it. I hope," continued 
the old resident with a look of sadness on his face, " that I 
have not given you any offence with my talk, but I felt 
young again. When you come this way again go to 
Downingtown. There are two houses there you ought to 
take. Would I like to go along and tell you what I 
know about the houses on the pike from Paoli to Downing- 
town? Well, Mister, you are very kind to want an old 
man like me for company, but come up and I will tell you 
what I can remember. But one thing is sure; in all my 
travels I never came across any whiskey to come up to the 
widow Evans'. Good bye!" After this parting shot in 
praise of the former refreshment dispensed in the old inn, 
the old resident pattered slowly up the pike, while the 
amateur stood thinking about the picture of long ago which 
the old man had conjured up before him. The long 
shadows of the sun, however, soon awakened him from 
his reverie, and he at once saw that his day's work was 
done. So quickly had the minutes passed. Picking up 



184 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

his tripod and plate holders he sadly turned his back to the 
setting sun and trudged wearily ov^er the deserted highway 
towards the station at Glen Loch, making at the same time 
the mental resolve in the near future to again seek out the 
old member of the "Hickory Club." 




?SiM^l 



AFTER THE VENDUE. 




z £ 




" THE SIGN OF THE WHITE HORSE 
EAST WHITELAND. 



IN 




♦fTN East Whiteland township, 
■■ in the very heart of the 



Great Valley, at the cross roads 
formed by the Swedeford and 
the road from Glenloch to the 
Yellow Springs, there is a pleas- 
antly situated hamlet known as 
the White Horse. It consists, 
besides the usual general store, 
blacksmith and wheelright 
shops, of about half a dozen 
houses. To the usual visitor 
there is nothing to distinguish the village from dozens of 
similar ones in the county. There is one house, however, 
that has a history dating back to the earliest settlement of 
the Great Valley. This house is at the eastern end of the 
village, and is now used as an ordinary farm house. It 
can be easily recognized by the porch which opens to the 
road, extends along the whole front of the house, also by 
the two ends of the building being of different heights. 

This small unpretentious structure was formerly one of 
the most famous inns in the State and known far and near 

185 



1 86 IF ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

as " The Sign of the White Horse." It was one of the 
first licensed houses in the county, and it was not long 
before the spot became one of the most active centers in 
the County of Chester, and as will be seen was an impor- 
tant stopping place in provincial, colonial and revolution- 
ary times, even maintaining Its prestige for a considerable 
time after the construction of the turnpike had diverted 
the bulk of the travel and patronage from the former 
"great road" from Philadelphia to Lancaster. 

The eastern end of the old tavern with its low ceiling 
dates from the first half of the eighteenth century, while 
the western part was built towards the end of the century 
— tradition says after the close of the Revolution. 

The walls originally were of rough stone, pointed, as 
all houses of that period were built, but of late they have 
been plastered over or dashed with a coating of yellow 
mortar, and now give the visitor of the present day but 
little idea of the former appearance of the house, nor is 
there anything about it now to show any sign of the former 
importance of the place as a landmark, or that it once was 
a haven of shelter and rest for the weary wayfarer and an 
asylum for all classes of the community from the devout 
missionary, on his way through the forest to supply his 
widely separated charges — to the hardy teamsters of the 
colonial period, who availed themselves of the good cheer 
dispensed within the narrow limits of its walls. 

An old manuscript map of old Chester county, supposed 
from all indications to have been made prior to 1744, was 
found some years ago among a lot of old papers, and 
fortunately came to the hands of the writer; though un- 
artistic and crude in execution and design, It cannot fail to 
prove a valuable document to the student of our early 
county history. 



An Ancient Map. 187 

Prominent among the few landmarks by the roadside 
depicted on the map is the "White Horse" in Whiteland. 
At the time the map was made it was the fifth on the way 
from the Schuylkill to the Brandywine, viz. : — " The 
Buck," " Radnor Meeting," "The Ball," "Warren," then 
"The White Horse," on the banks of the Valley creek. 
The situation being a most important center, the King's 
highway, which replaced the old Indian path or trail, and 
known after 1733 as the Lancaster road, here branched 
off or forked; the right hand road leading to the Cones- 
toga settlements by way of the " Red Lyon," while the left 
hand branch led to Downing's mill on the Brandywine. 

The road from Chester, then known as the " Edgmont " 
road, terminated and intersected with the Lancaster road 
near this point. 

Another road known as the "Moore Hall" road led 
from this common center to the Schuylkill fords and points 
beyond that stream as well as towards Vincent and Valley 
Forge. 

The main road of the Chester Valley known to this day 
as the Swedeford road also converged into the Lancaster 
road a short distance east of the White Horse. This 
road was ordered by the Provincial Council held May 6, 
1724, "as the most convenient for the publick, and espe- 
cially necessary for the congregation of Baptists and of 
least detriment to private persons." 

As will be seen the centering of these various roads 
tended at even this early day to give this point an advan- 
tage over almost any other tavern stand in the county, and 
it was destined to become one of the busiest centers be- 
tween Philadelphia and what is now known as Down- 
ingtown. 

The exact year when the first house was built or when 



1 88 JV ay side Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

the first license was granted is difficult to determine. It is 
known, however, to have been very early in the century. 

When James Thomas, a Welshman, erected his primi- 
tive log structure in the almost unbroken wilderness, it 
might be said to have been on the very outskirts of 
civilization. 

The only means of communication with the older settle- 
ments was the well trodden Indian path or trail, which led 
from the Schuylkill to the Brandywine. Indians were still 
numerous in the vicinity, and as a general thing friendly 
to the whites; there was no scarcity of game, and the settler 
only feared the wild beasts which abounded in the Valley 
hills. 

James Thomas served as constable of the township as 
early as 171 1, and as strong liquors were thought to be the 
best antidote against any or all diseases indigenous to the 
new country, they soon became indispensable to the settler 
and were in universal use by all classes of the community. 
The tradition that Thomas kept an inn at the time he 
served as constable, or shortly afterward, is further 
strengthened by the fact that, in 17 15, he is assessed 
double the amount of any other resident of the township. 
The first official record relating to the house, which is still 
in existence, is the application of James Thomas for 
license in 1721, when he applied for a license to keep a 
"house of entertainment, for selling wine, brandy, rum 
and other strong liquors." 

The few appointments and furniture of this rude cabin 
in the forest were no doubt all of the most simple character 
and it seems to us of the present day as if the house itself 
had been established far in advance of those who were 
to form the inn-keeper's future support. 

In the next year, 1722, Thomas was succeeded by 



King's Highway. 189 

Edward Kennison, who, strange to say, had also been 
Thomas's successor as constable In 17 12. Under Kenni- 
son's ownership the house seems to have flourished and 
at once became a local landmark. 

As the travel increased the old Indian trail through the 
forest became a bridle or "packer" path; and for some 
years following the opening of the house, all liquors and 
necessaries required at the inn were brought on pack 
horses from Philadelphia or Chester. Shortly after Kenni- 
son's advent an effort was made by the citizens of Chester 
county to have the " King's Highway " and public road 
from Philadelphia to Conestoga, through Merion and 
Radnor, put in passable condition for cart or wagon travel 
as far as the Brandywine; this effort followed by a petition 
from the citizens of Lancaster in 173 1 and others of simi- 
lar import from Chester county in 1735, eventually re- 
sulted in the opening, in 1741, of what became known as 
the "Great" or Lancaster road. 

In 1735 another petition was presented to the Provin- 
cial Council " of sundry inhabitants of the county of 
Chester and Lancaster setting forth the Want of a High 
Road in the remote parts of the Counties, and that a very 
commodious one may be laid out from the ferry of John 
Harris on the Susquehannah to fall in with the high Road 
from Lancaster Town, at or near the Plantation of Ed- 
ward Kennison, in the Great Valley of Chester County, 
&c., &c." This was also granted and formed another 
artery of travel leading from this common center. 

When the primitive log cabin was enlarged by the erec- 
tion of the eastern part of the present structure is not 
definitely known, but it was no doubt built at the time 
when these roads were opened, about 1735-40, 

A well founded and plausible tradition tells us that this 
13 



igo Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

log house stood where the western end now stands, and 
when the needs of traffic demanded it the eastern end was 
built, and when after the Revolution this house in turn 
proved inadequate to the demands upon it, the log part 
in turn gave way to the present west or new end. 

Another curious thing about this house was the pre- 
caution which was taken to resist any attack upon the in- 
mates by the Indians in case of an uprising, which was so 
much dreaded about the middle of the eighteenth century. 
To prevent being cut off from water, a wooden pipe or 
trunk was laid from the hill back of the house conveying 
the water from a spring in the hillside through the cellar 
to a shallow well in front of the house, a pump in which 
supplied the uses of travelers and teamsters; in case of 
necessity a plug could be withdrawn in the cellar and thus 
give an ample supply of water to the inmates without leav- 
ing the sheltering walls of the house. These tubes or 
pipes remained in the place until removed by the present 
owner a little over three decades ago, when the house was 
put in its present condition. 

An old account of the inn describes the table as being 
of split slabs, supported by round legs set in auger holes, 
the stools three-legged, and made in the same manner; 
wooden pins, stuck in the walls at the back, supported some 
clapboards which served for shelves for the table furni- 
ture. This consisted of pewter dishes, plates, and spoons, 
but mostly of wooden bowls, trenchers, and noggins; if 
the last run short, gourds or hard shell squashes made up 
the deficiency. 

As to the bill of fare, for breakfast it was usually 
coffee, hog and hominy, while potpie was the main standby 
for dinner; for supper tea and coffee with mush and milk 
was the usual fare. During the fall and winter, however, 



Indians vs. Settlers. 191 

there was no lack of venison and game, the neighboring 
Valley hills furnishing an abundance of those luxuries, 
while in summer the product of the truck patch, such as 
greens (beet tops), corn, pumpkins, beans and potatoes 
added variety to the almost monotonous menu. 

Pegs around the walls answered for the great coats or 
hats of such guests who were too dainty to place their 
clothing on the sanded floor as was done by the majority 
of travelers. 

In the tap room most of the liquor was dispensed from 
stone jugs, pewter mugs being used exclusively for drink- 
ing purposes. The liquor was always measured out to 
the patron. When more was wanted a second drink was 
charged. In 1741 the price of a drink of rum was three 
pence. 

At this time there were still many Indians In the vicinity 
especially towards Pequea and the Brandywine. As the 
settlers Increased In numbers more or less trouble arose 
between the Indians and the newcomers, as the game which 
was the sustenance of the aborigines decreased and became 
scarce, the Indians were apt to prey on their white neigh- 
bors. This gave cause for numerous complaints. One 
claim was filed as late as October 3, 1727, when sundry 
Indians killed a cow belonging to Richard Thomas who 
lived near our old inn. 

While In the same year the Indians complained to the 
council of the encroachments of the whites and the ob- 
structions In the Brandywine when the Sheriff was directed 
to " throw the same down." The Indians continued in 
the valley until about 1755, when the French and Indian 
War broke out, when they generally removed beyond 
the bounds of the county. 

We have no records relating to the hostelry until at the 



192 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

commencement of the Indian troubles, when the Inn seems 
to have been kept by one John Neely, who is said to have 
been there prior to 1753. From an entry in Rodger 
Hunt's account book June 10, 1759, we find: "To expenses 
at the White Horse, John Neely's, 3s, 6d." It also is 
mentioned on the several military documents of the time, 
the distance given thereon from the Court House at Phila- 
delphia, is 26 miles, i quarter, 18 perches. 

Presumably Neely kept the house until 1762, when 
Thomas Lemans or Lemmons was at the White Horse. 
His name does not again appear. His successor for the 
next year was probably Owen Ashton. 

Then John Kerlin appears on the records as host. 
Little is known of him until the year 1774, when he, to- 
gether with Anthony Wayne, Francis Johnson, Sketchly 
Morton and other citizens of the county were elected 
a committee at Chester, December 20th, " to carry into 
execution the association of the late Continental Congress, 
and to be and continue from this time until one month 
after the rising of the next Continental Congress, &c., 
&c." From the above it may be gleaned that Kerlin was 
an influential member of the community, as well as a 
patriot. 

When scarcely three years later, the ruthless invader, 
with his Hessian hirelings, overran with heavy tread our 
peaceful and fertile valley in his attempt to capture the 
city, Kerlin, in common with his patriotically inclined 
neighbors, suffered severe loss during the short occupation 
of the terrain by the British, everything that was of use 
or could be caried off was taken, while the remainder was 
burned or destroyed, it is said, in a fire made in front of 
the house, with the bean poles, paling and rails from the 
adjoining garden. 



September i6, 1777. I93 

The original claim for this loss, filed by John Kerlin, 
is now in possession of the Pennsylvania Historical So- 
ciety, viz. : 

" An amount of the Damages John Kerlin received by the army 
under the Command of General How in his march from Brandy- 
wine to Philadelphia, Sept. i8th, I777-" 

Among the losses mentioned are: 

" To table linnln — towels, &c £ 10 — o — o 

Wairing apparel both womans and mens. . . . 10 — o- 
To Chainy bowls — plates and tea ware, &c. 

To Earthen ware and bottles 

The total amount summed up to £i99 — o — o" 

The account was affirmed to before Benjamin Bar- 
tholomew November, 1782. 

From the fact that this claim does not mention any 
liquors having been seized or destroyed it is probable that 
his stock was removed to a place of safety before the 
British army reached the valley. 

It was on the high ground or plateau south of this house 
where General Washington determined, September 16, 
1777, to risk another battle with the British, with the 
view of saving the city of Philadelphia. It is said that the 
selection of the ground was Washington's own choice. 
There was considerable skirmishing between the advance 
forces of the two armies and a sanguinary battle would no 
doubt have resulted, but a sudden thunderstorm of great 
violence stopped its progress. 

Had the fates permitted this battle to continue It is 
probable that it would have been a decisive action which 
would have had most serious consequences. Had the Brit- 
ish army, under Howe and Cornwallis, suffered on that 
day a signal defeat it would then and there have assured 



194 PFayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

American Independence, while on the contrary If It had 
ended In the decided defeat or overthrow of Washington, 
we might at the present time still be living under the rule 
of the Lion and the Unicorn, with no use for fireworks on 
the fourth of July. 

When three months later the American army went into 
winter quarters at Valley Forge, almost within sight of 
our hamlet, the point was of great Importance to Washing- 
ton. The inn was selected as the first stopping place and 
relay station for the express riders between headquarters 
and Lancaster where Congress was then holding its ses- 
sions. One of the most trusted of these messengers was 
the son of Captain Patrick Anderson, of the Line, and 
whose peaceful home was but a few miles northeast of the 
old Inn. 

After the tide of war had receded from the fertile 
valley, the recuperation of the residents was necessarily 
slow, still by thrift and industry the damages were gradu- 
ally repaired — fences were replaced, damaged buildings 
repaired and cattle were again seen browsing In the 
meadows. The travel on the Lancaster road Increased 
until it became the great highway to the West, the old Inn 
reaped its share of patronage and Kerlln soon recovered 
from his losses. Shortly after peace was assured, a successful 
attempt was made to run a stage coach on the road between 
Philadelphia and Lancaster, but this was done only after 
repeated failures. 

This line to Lancaster was established in April, 1785, by 
Frederick Doersh and William Weaver, who state that 
their " Stage Wagon " will set out every Monday and 
Friday mornings from the King of Prussia Tavern, in 
Market street above third; and from the Black Horse 
Tavern, Queen street, Lancaster, every Tuesday and 



First Stage Coach. 195 

Saturday mornings. Each passenger was allowed four- 
teen pounds of baggage. The fare was twenty shillings, 
one half to be paid on entering the name in the book. 

For some reason the proprietors of the stage did not 
get along harmoniously, and in the latter part of the next 
year (1786) the following card was displayed in the bar- 
room of the inn, which was from the start a main stopping 
place of the "Stage Wagon." 



"Stage Coach" 

The partnership of Weaver and Doersh, late proprietors of the 
stage from Lancaster to Philadelphia, is this day dissolved by 
mutual consent. 

The stage coach, with the mail, in future will be carried only 
by the subscribers who have provided themselves with a sufficient 
and easy coach upon a much better and easier construction than 
any hitherto used, together with a set of excellent and strong 
horses and a well experienced and careful driver, and will pay the 
strictest attention in the receiving and delivering of subscribers, 
articles, letters and packets. The stage coach with the mail will 
set out from the House of the subscriber, Adam Weaver, at the 
sign of the Black Horse in Lancaster, every Monday morning 
precisely at 6 o'clock, and arrive at Philadelphia every Tuesday at 
the House of John Stein, in Market street, at the sign of the 
Black Bear. And will start for Lancaster from the sign of the 
Black Bear every Thursday at 6 o'clock precisely, and arrive at 
the House of Adam Weaver every Friday. 

The proprietors flatter themselves by their former conduct and 
unwearied attention, to those who were pleased to favor them with 
their custom that they will afiford general satisfaction as the enter- 
tainment at the House in Lancaster is well known, and particu- 
larly the attention paid to travelers, in Philadelphia, at Mr. Stein's, 



196 fVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

will render the entertainment agreeable and worthy the notice of 
gentlemen and ladies traveling in the stage, by 

The public's most humble servants, 
Weaver & Pflieger. 
December 23d, 1786. 

But this, like the other similar enterprise, was soon 
abandoned, caused mainly by the bad condition of the 
road, and the uncertainty of arriving at the place of desti- 
nation at the advertised time. A clergyman who, in 1786, 
attempted the journey thus describes his experience on 
reaching the White Horse: "The horses could only walk 
most of the way, the stage wagon was in frequently to the 
axletree, and I had no sooner recovered from a terrible 
plunge on one side than there came another in the oppo- 
site direction, and confounded all my efforts to preserve a 
steady sitting. I was the only passenger, and it took the 
four horses, with the empty wagon seven hours to go the 
twenty-three miles." 

At this time the tavern was much frequented, as well as 
the gathering place of farmers for miles around, and, except 
on market days, the barroom and porch would usually be 
filled with drovers, teamsters and men from the country, 
whips or sticks in hand, swinging on chairs or lounging at 
the bar, driving their bargains; In fact it was a sort of an 
agricultural exchange. 

If the day and road were fair a number could always be 
seen playing "Long Bullets," the favorite pastime of the 
day. The game consisted in seeing who could roll Iron 
cannon balls, relics of the Revolution, the greatest distance 
along the road, similar to the present ten pin ball. The 
one who rolled the shortest ball having to gather up and 
bring all the balls to the base. 



German Farmer at the White Horse. 197 

The White Horse was also a favorite stopping place 
for bands of Indians, who at that time (1790-1800)' 
would make frequent visits to the capital city, bnngmg 
down skins and furs, which they would barter for lead, 
stockings, pipes, etc., etc. 

On arriving at the inn they would always ask for rum 
and sugar of which they were very fond; if refused, they 
would offer to shoot pennies for it; this was done by fixing 
a copper cent on a stick and set up from 30 to 50 yards 
from the dusky marksman, who would then shoot at it 
with his bow and arrow. If he hit the cent, which he 
usually did, the coin belonged to him, if not he tried it 
over again, this afforded much amusement to strangers and 
children, beside slacking the savage's thirst. When stop- 
ping over night they would sleep in the barn or, if cold, 
on the kitchen floor. 

The house at this period was also a favorite stopping 
place with the German farmers on their way to and from 
the city with their loads of grain or provisions. Economy 
with these people was the order of the day, money was 
sparingly spent, and traveling expenses were reduced to a 
minimum. Most of these farmers carried their own food, 
even their necessary whiskey was brought from home. In 
the winter they formed a curious scene at night as they 
lay stretched out on the floor in a wide circle around the 
barroom stove, with feet towards the fire, each man on 
his own straw sack and covered with his coat or quilt, sleep- 
ing the sleep of the weary, only to be on the road again 
long before the first streak of dawn. In connection with 
these people it was a curious fact that the innkeeper could 
always tell how the markets were by the crack of their 
whips as they approached the tavern; if good their whips 



198 Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

would crack incessantly, if the contrary the whip was in 
the socket. 

With the advent of the year 1787 came a new land- 
lord, Arthur Rice, who deserves more than a passing notice. 
Rice had been a volunteer scout during the Revolution, 
and was one of Washington's most trusted scouts. It is 
said that during the encampment of Valley Forge, Rice 
who was a man of powerful physique, on one occasion cap- 
tured single handed two British or Hessian soldiers and 
brought them together with their arms and accoutrements, 
within the American lines. For this act of braver)' and 
daring he was complimented by the Commander-in-Chief. 
He afterwards rendered valuable services to the army, 
notably at the battle of Monmouth, for all of which he 
would never receive a penny of pay or reward. He was 
also a Past Master of the Masonic Fraternity, which met 
in the Valley during the encampment. 

So great did Washington value the services Rice had 
rendered and his disinterestedness and patriotism, that 
while President he would invariably send invitations to 
festal occasions and levee to the humble inn keeper at the 
"Signof the White Horse." 

The house now became a regular meeting place for the 
ex-soldiers who resided in the Valley and who had formerly 
been members of some of the Military Lodges in the Revo- 
lution Army, or of the Historic Lodge No. 8, which met 
at Valley Forge. These meetings soon resulted in an appli- 
cation to the Grand Lodge of Pennsylvania for a warrant 
to hold a lodge in the Chester Valley. This petition was 
granted and it was in the second-story room of the eastern 
end of the old inn, on the sixth day of December, 1790, 
that the altar of Free Masonry was re-erected in the Great 
Valley and Lodge 50 constituted. Who the members were 



Arthur Rice. 199 

and the history of the Lodge, how it afterwards became 
the most influential one in the country until it succumbed 
to public opinion during the Anti-Masonic crusade, has 
been fully told previously by the writer. The furniture 
of the Lodge room consisted of plain hickory chairs and 
settees. The Master's chair is still in the possession of a 
descendant of Arthur Rice. Two engravings or charts 
hung against the wall, these were preserved for many 
years, but at present unfortunately cannot be found. After 
the Lodge got fairly under way, on several occasions, 
entertainments and balls were given, which were great 
social events, and attracted all the youth and beauty in 
the vicinity for miles around. From 1791 to 1793, for 
some reason James Bones, a brother-in-law of Arthur Rice, 
appeared as inn keeper. The following year Rice again 
was in charge and remained so until his death in 1796. He 
was succeeded by his widow Jane Rice in 1797, who kept 
the Inn until her marriage to Stephen Bowen, who was 
also a prominent member of the Masonic Lodge that met 
at the Inn. Bowen appeared in charge until his death in 
1 8 10, when the goods and chattels were appraised and 
sold. Bowen was also a prominent member of H. R. A. 
Chapter, No. 75, and his Masonic marks and jewels are 
still treasured by his descendants. 

It was during the terms of Rice and Bones that the turn- 
pike was constructed at this point a mile to the south, and 
the great bulk of travel diverted. 

After the sale by Bowen's widow the house came into 
possession of John Pearce, a brother to Colonel Cromwell 
Pearce, who kept it until after 18 17, when it came into 
the possession of Samuel Ritenbaugh in whose possession 
and later that of his sons it remained for many years, 
becoming, however, known more as a drove stand. 



200 fVayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 

One of the curious sights, common in the fall of the 
year, half a centur}' ago, were flocks or droves of fowls, 
generally turkeys, but now and then also geese, being 
driven towards the city. The task of driving a turkey 
army, as such a flock or drove was called, was not an easy 
one by any means. The great danger was that they were 
apt to crowd together and trample each other to death; 
to prevent this they were divided into different lots, and a 
boy or man, called a " shooer," placed in charge of each 
section. Each driver, or shooer, armed with a long pole 
or rod, with a piece of red flannel fastened to the end had 
charge of about from fifty to seventy fowls; the best time 
made on the road by an army of this kind, while on the 
march, was not much over one mile an hour, even this 
speed, however, decreased towards nightfall, for as soon 
as it commenced to grow dark the birds were determined 
to go to roost, and then the fun commenced, and notwith- 
standing all the efforts of the drivers to the contrary the 
turkeys generally gained their point. This stampede usu- 
ally took place in passing an orchard or copse of trees, 
when in much less time than it takes to relate it, the trees 
were black with birds, and the day's journey ended for the 
turkeys. Not so for the drivers, whose duty it was to 
watch the fowls and prevent them from getting "mixed 
up " with any other turkeys in the neighborhood, or being 
raided by evilly disposed persons. For this purpose the 
drivers always had a covered wagon, in which some of the 
men slept while the others remained on guard. On account 
of the slow progress of the fowls the droves always kept 
away from the much traveled turnpike and confined their 
route to the less frequented highways. 

It was Ritenbaugh who replaced the old provincial log 
barn with the fine stone structure which now stands by the 



Wayside Inns on Lancaster Turnpike. 



201 



roadside. The old smithy that for years stood near the 
old inn was also removed to its present location at the 
cross roads. Toward the latter years of Ritenbaugh's 
ownership he voluntarily gave up the tavern, refusing to 
take out a license. From that time the place ceased to be 
a tavern stand, after an existence as such for almost a cen- 
tury and a half. Soon afterwards the place was sold and 
came into the possession of one of Philadelphia's well 
known capitalists, by whom it was remodeled and repaired, 
and now, as stated at the beginning of this sketch, does 
duty as a quiet farm house. 




INDEX. 



Admiral Vernon, The, 45 
Admiral Warren, The, 45 
Aston, George, 48, 49 
Andre, Major, 52, 53, 54 
Anti-Masonry, 17& 

B 

Black Horse, 17, 25 

Buck Tavern, 17 

Black Bear, 19, 95 ; Sketch of, 102 ; 
John Philips, 103 ; revolutionary 
history, ib. 

Blue-Ball, 11, 19, 95; Old Prissy 
Robinson, 100; Portrait, loi ; 
Gruesome Tales of the, 481-51 

Blue-Ball (Halfway house), 80; 
petition for license, 82; for road, 
813 ; Peter Kalm, ib.; name 
changed to King of Prussia, 85; 
Headquarters for General Forbes, 
85; Bernhardus Van Leer, 86; 
a trip for pleasure, 87; bad 
roads, 881; legal prices for 
liquors, 89-90; highway robbers, 
90; Fitz and Dougherty, ib.; 
Christopher Marshall, 91 ; diffi- 
culties of travel, 92; pastimes, 93 

Barley Sheaf, 24 

" Baer's," 215 



Conestoga W^agons, 12, 37 
Columbus Tavern, 16 
Cross-keys, 23, 25 
Clemson's Tavern, 26 
Conestoga Inn, 27 



Clemson, James, 31 

dingers, 36, 96 

Coachees, 381 

Columbia Railway, 116, 163; First 

Accident on, 1631 
Coffman, Henry, i6i 
Chambers, Rev. John, 176 

D 

Drove Stands, 7 
Distance Tables, 8, 11 
Durham Ox, i6 

" Downings," 61, 62; Post Office, 65 
Drove Tavern, 19; Murder at, 99; 
Noble Heath's School, ib. 

E 

Evans, Joshua, 120, 131, 134, 148; 
Randall, 134 



Flag Tavern, ij 
Fish Tavern, 17 

Fahnestock, Caspar, sS^S^^'t Sketch 
of, 57 ; Charles, 70, 72 ; Andrew, 

7'3 
French and Indian War, 49 
Free Masons, 163 

G 

Gallagherville Tavern, 23 

"Green Tree," 17, 150; Old Hick- 
ory Club, 151, 154; Old Mile- 
stone, 155; Columbia Railway, 
i59-i'6j; Peculiarities, 161; Ser- 
geant Wallace, 164; Destroyed 
by Fire, 169; Paoli Encampment, 
171 ; Post Office, 172 



203 



204 



Index. 



General Washington, 22 

Geiger's, 27 

Greenland Tavern, 27 

Glassley Commons, 36, 97, 9S 

Good Intent Stages, 71 

General Wayne, 21-25 

General Jackson, 20, 95 ; Joshua 

Evans, 104; Farmers' Lodge, No. 

183, A. Y. M., meets there, ib. 



H 



Hughes Tavern, 16 
Half-Avay House, 2-2. 
Hinkel, Jacob, 30 
Hand's Pass, 23 



Inns and Taverns, list of, 16 



Mount Vernon, 25 

Miles Tavern, 31, 36 

Mills, James, Balloon descends at 

Spread Eagle, 39 
Mather, Peter, guides British, 53 
Miller, Rev. Peter, 56 
Mail Stages, 68, 69-74, 132 
Michaux, Experience, no, 130 
Musgrove, Col., 123 
Marshall, Christopher, 91 



N 



Owen, Richard D., 72 
Old Hickory Club, 151 



Jones, Jonathan, 162; Jacob, 169; 

Frank, 171 
Jones, Rev. David, 123 
Jaebez, Brother, 56, 57 



K 



Kindig's, 25 
Kinzer's, 26 



Lud wicks, 16 

Lamb Tavern, 16, 19, 36, 96, 98 
Lewis, George W., 36 
Land Stages, 38 
Lardner Lynford, 50, 51 
Latta, Rev. Wm., 76 
Landlords, Sketch of, 10& 
Lafayette, Visit of, 135 

M 
Meals at the old Inns, 6 
Midway House, 23 



Pennsylvania-German Houses, 13 

Prince of Wales, 17 

Plough, The, 18 

Paoli Inn, 20, 95 

Prussian Eagle, 23 

Plough and Anchor, 27 

Paradise Tavern, 27 

Ponemah, 43 

Penn, Family owns Tavern, 50; 
John, 52, 54, 55 

Parry, Caleb, 50, c,t 

Paoli, Massacre at, 53 ; Last Sur- 
vivor, 167 

Penry, Maria, describes travel, 60 

"Pitt" Teams, 153, 157 

Paoli, Encampment at, 170 

Paoli Inn, 52; Welsh settlers, n8; 
traditions, 119; William Evans, 
119; Anthony Wayne, 120; Peti- 
tion for license, 121 ; opposed 
by Lardner, 122; Pascal Paoli, 
122; William Priest's Diary, 124; 
Building of the Turnpike, 125; 



Index. 



^05 



Toll Charges, 127 ; Sizes of Tires, 
128; Rules and Regulations, 129; 
Conestogas and Pitt Teams, 130; 
Headquarters of Militia, 134; 
Lafayette's Visit, 135; Columbia 
Railway, Survey of, 135; Change 
of Route, ib.; Instructions for 
Building the Road, 137; Early 
Cars, 139; Terminus of Pitts- 
burg Stages, 14x3; Tolls, 141; 
Rates of, 142 ; Advent of Steam, 
143; Polling Place, 144; "Re- 
member Paoli," 145; Theodore 
Plumbly, 146; Railroad Riots, 
147; Centennial of the Paoli 
Massacre, 148 

R 

Rising Sun Tavern, 16, 26 
Rainbow Tavern, 24 
Ramsower, Adam, 29 
Refreshments, 34 
Rates of Fare, 34, 3 & 
Rival Stage Lines, 112 
Red Lion, 17 

S 
Slaymaker's, 26 
Soudersburg Tavern, 27 
Shippen, Edward, 31 
Siter, Adam, 32 
Siter, John, 32 
Siterville, 33'-43 
Siter, Edward, 33; Advertisement, 

34, 3'6, 39 
Slough, Martin, runs Stage, 33 
St. Peter's P. E. Church, 48 
Sachsen-Weimar, Duke of, 72 
Stage Wagons, 8« 
" Shoeneman's," 97 
Stage Coaches, Travel in, 112; 

Rival lines, ib., 132; Arrival and 

Departure of, 133 



Sutcliff travels, 130 

Ship Tavern, 173; Signboard, 174; 
Susie, Evans, 175; Rev. John 
Chambers, 176 ; Old Hickory 
Club, 177; Anti-Masons, 178; 
Dutch vs. Irish, 179; Cholera in 
1832, 179; Lafayette Rangers, 
180; Independence Day, 181; 
Widow Evans' Whiskey, 181; 
Sectional Canal Boats, 182 

Spread Eagle, 18, 95; Mills' Bal- 
loon, 39; Decline of the Old Inn, 
40; Sleighing Parties, 40; Pur- 
chased by Geo. W. Childs, 41 ; 
used as School for Indian Girls, 
ib.; used by the Lincoln Institu- 
tion, 43 

Spread Eagle, sketch of, 28 ; Ad- 
vertised for Sale, 29 ; Petition for 
license, 30; John Siter, builds 
Stone House, 32; Signboard, ib.; 
Sitersville, 33; Edward Siter, 35; 
Change of Signboard, ib.; " Split- 
Crow " return of Edward Siter, 
36; Sleighing Parties, 37; Social 
Gatherings, 38; Postoffice at, 39; 
Ramsower, Adam, 29 

Stage Stands, 7 

Signboards, 8, 9, 16 ■ 

Sheep Drove Yard, 16 

Seven Stars, 17 

Sorrel Horse, 18, 95 

Sign of the White Horse, 47, 48, 51 

Stage Tavern, 19, 96 

Sammy Stirk, 97 

Springhouse, the, 19, 95, 98; Kug- 
ler's 98; Peggy Dane, ib.; De- 
stroyed by Fire, 99 

" Steamboat," The, 21 

Sheaf, 21, 61 

Ship Tavern, 21-23 

Swan Tavern, 22 ; at Lancaster, 27 



206 



Index. 



States Arms, 24 
Sadsbury Hotel, 25 



Tap Houses, 7 

Toll Bars, 10 

Troy Coaches, 12 

Three Tuns, 17-20 

Thompson Lodge, F. & A. M., 44 

Turk's Head, 54 

Teamsters, Sketch of, 106; Wages, 

157 
Traveller's Experience, 107^109 
Travel on the Turnpike, no, iii- 

112, 114, 115 

U 

Unicorn, The, iSi-si, 36, 52, 95 



Valley Forge, 31 

Van Lear, Bernhardus, 86; Death 
of, 93 

W 
Wagon Stands, 7 
White Lamb, The, 16 
Warren, 21 

Washington Tavern, 24 
Williamstown, 26 
Wayne, Anthony, 29, 120, 123 
Whiskey Insurrection, 62 



Wright, Fanny, 72 

Wagoner's Toast, 95; Songs, 117; 

Inns, sketch of, 106 
Wayne, Isaac, 131, 135, 167 
White Horse, 162 
Wallace, Sergeant, 164; Sketch of, 

Warren Tavern, Sketch of, 44; The 
Admiral Vernon, 45; Admiral 
Warren, ib.; George Aston, 48; 
in French and Indian War, 49, 
50; Lynford Lardner, 50; Caleb 
Parry, ib.; Ordered to be Sold, 
52; Bought by John Penn, ib.; 
Leased to Peter Mather, ib.; Ma- 
jor John Andre at, ib.; Massacre 
at Paoli, 53 ; Suggested as County 
Seat, 54; Fahnestock's, 55; Cas- 
par buys the Warren, 56; "Dutch" 
vs. " Irisher," 59; Maria Penry, 
60; Gov. Mifflin's visit, 63; Re- 
cruiting Office Opened, ib.; 
Whiskey Insurrection, ib.; The 
building of the New " Warren," 
64; French Princes at, 65; The 
Indian and Coal, 67; Arrival of 
First Mail Stage, 70; The Bar 
Room, 72; "No Liquor Sold on 
the Sabbath," 73 ; Andrew Fahne- 
stock, ib.; William Fahnestock, 
7'6; a Temperance Hotel, 77 






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